Broadhead Tuning
#1
Broadhead Tuning
It appears, on the advice of others more knowledgeable than me, to use fixed broadheads w/ my setup is the way to go. Actually I'm relieved. I felt this was the best type anyways. So, why do you move the rest & not the sight pins if the broadheads don't hit where the field points do? Also, after tuning w/ broadheads, will the field points hit in a different place than before? I'm sure someone @ the range will help me if need be, but I'd like to learn to tune my bow myself. My other q is, would a fallaway rest work better for both types of points since it's not in contact w/ the arrow after release? Will this type of rest allow broadheads & field points to fly more similarly? I like to shoot @ the range where I bought my bow & can't use broadheads there. So I'd like to not have to spend all my time screwing w/ the bow & just shoot. As always any advice is appreciated. Also, thanks Mark & Paul for taking the time to help me out recently. Your info is very helpful. Oh, I almost forgot to ask, which is more likely to work better for me? 3 or 4 blade? Thanks.
Phil.
Edited by - pdq 5oh on 01/24/2002 22:43:02
Phil.
Edited by - pdq 5oh on 01/24/2002 22:43:02
#2
RE: Broadhead Tuning
First if your broadheads are not flying similar to your field points it most likely means your bow is not tuned properly. And you need to paper tune your bow to know how to correct this. After you tune your field points and broadheads should hit almost if not in the absolute same spots. If you have a conctact problem with the rest you can simply adjust your setup, you do not have to purchase a fallaway rest to provide adequate clearance. Also feathers are much more forgiving when it comes to clearance problems, and tune easier. And yes you need to screw with your bow if it's not tuned correctly. If will prevent a lot of frustration when you shoot. A properly tuned bow will seem to guide the arrow into the target. If your bow is tuned well I don't think it is going to make a difference whether you shoot a three or four blade broadhead, but for the record most people think a three blade broadhead is easier to tune.
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami FL USA
Posts: 208
RE: Broadhead Tuning
I agree with Doe Killer on your bow needing to be tuned. There is another consideration though "ARROW SPINE"!!!!! If your arrows are not spined correctly to the bow your broadheads will never fly properly. When a broadhead is added to an arrow it will generally lengthen the arrow, which weakens the arrows spine. If your arrow spine is marginal to begin with you might have problems in getting broadheads to group well. There are solutions to the problem like lowering the bows poundage, decreasing tip weight, or shortening the arrow if possible. It is also possible to be overspined, but generally a compound will shoot an arrow on the stiff side very well. Its all a system that has to be worked out to get your arrows flying well. One of the advantages of a compound is that you have the option tune the bow to the arrow. Don't get stuck on a particular poundage. In hunting accuracy and shot placement will always outweigh speed. Three or four blades makes no difference, but the four blade models have more cutting surface in the same or similiar broadhead diameter.
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Marquette MI USA
Posts: 69
RE: Broadhead Tuning
Everyone is right....
Now, how far off are your broad heads and where? With my other bow. My broadheads shot 3 inches low at 20 yards and that was the way it was. My bow shot bullet holes with both....just the nature of the beast. I have never heard of moving the rest instead of the pins???????? Also, your arrows could be plaining, try feathers WITH a helical. Spin the arrow like a football and they won't plane. You want all the *steering* in the back.
Good luck!
John
Now, how far off are your broad heads and where? With my other bow. My broadheads shot 3 inches low at 20 yards and that was the way it was. My bow shot bullet holes with both....just the nature of the beast. I have never heard of moving the rest instead of the pins???????? Also, your arrows could be plaining, try feathers WITH a helical. Spin the arrow like a football and they won't plane. You want all the *steering* in the back.
Good luck!
John
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: Broadhead Tuning
possible reasons for poor fixed broadhead flight-
1- Improperly tuned bow.
2- Blade width over 1", leading to wind planing not corrected by fletch, especially at higher fps (above 250-260).
3- Length of broadhead weakens spine, causing arrow to flex differently off arrow rest upon release, resulting in different point of impact from field tips.
My fix? Screw on Steelforce broadheads, 1" blade width. Add a Savage drop away rest. Result? Field point and broadhead impact identically... Works for me.
1- Improperly tuned bow.
2- Blade width over 1", leading to wind planing not corrected by fletch, especially at higher fps (above 250-260).
3- Length of broadhead weakens spine, causing arrow to flex differently off arrow rest upon release, resulting in different point of impact from field tips.
My fix? Screw on Steelforce broadheads, 1" blade width. Add a Savage drop away rest. Result? Field point and broadhead impact identically... Works for me.
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: East Yapank NY USA
Posts: 3,457
RE: Broadhead Tuning
To get bh's to impact like fields you must move the rest / nock. You micro tune according to the Easton guide or use the walk back method. You must change the tune of the bow to get them to fly alike.
If your bh's are impacting diff. than your field points and you are satisfied with that then you move the pins to put the bh's in the X. But you fp's will now be out of the X
If you cannot get them to group the same and just adjust the pins, mark the windage and elevation on your sight for each one. If you have a good micro adjust sight it is not that hard to do a quick adjust when you switch from fp's to bh's.
If your bh's are impacting diff. than your field points and you are satisfied with that then you move the pins to put the bh's in the X. But you fp's will now be out of the X
If you cannot get them to group the same and just adjust the pins, mark the windage and elevation on your sight for each one. If you have a good micro adjust sight it is not that hard to do a quick adjust when you switch from fp's to bh's.
#7
RE: Broadhead Tuning
Thanks everyone for the replies. I haven't shot any broadheads yet, but kept seeing posts about fixed heads not flying the same as field points. Moving the rest to adjust was in the directions that came w/ some Thunderheads I bought. I'll paper tune tomorrow & then shoot broadheads & see what happens. Thanks again.
Phil.
Phil.