What do you use to glue your inserts in?
#7
probably not the most popular choice anymore, but I use hot melt glue, and have been with carbons for about 12 years. Easy to heat up the point and insert and turn it as needed.
I do as well,but it should be noted that you have to be very carefull with the heat and never in any situation do you apply direct heat to the carbon.
I use Easton hotmelt because it is a very low temp hotmelt and it spreads more evenly than most.
I also heat the glue stick,rub it on the end of the shaft.Then I place a fieldpoint(to hold on to) in my insert and heat the insert JUST ENOUGH to get the insert to slide through the glue.I also rotate the insert as I push it in.
This creates a superior bond,absent of voids and you still have the option of insert removal at a later date if necessary.
#8
I don't like Powerbond or the original Gorilla glue, or any other glue that expands when it dries. Had too many created globs behind the insert from the expansion and cause a wobble that is difficult to correct. I don't like using any heat whatsoever on carbon arrows because it is bad for the resins that bond the carbon fibers. So, I use instants.
Gorilla Glue Super Glue. Not their regular, original glue; their super glue. Has rubber particles suspended in it for impact resistance which makes it perfect for inserts. Been using it for a couple of years on my arrows and arrows I build for others, and it has never failed me. Works good to secure bowfishing points too.
Gorilla Glue Super Glue. Not their regular, original glue; their super glue. Has rubber particles suspended in it for impact resistance which makes it perfect for inserts. Been using it for a couple of years on my arrows and arrows I build for others, and it has never failed me. Works good to secure bowfishing points too.
Last edited by Snood Slapper; 09-10-2009 at 09:36 PM.
#9
I'm not a great fan of any super glue either. I use hot melt with any aluminum or aluminum core arrow (ACC), but with AC arrows I use 24 hour epoxy. Here's how I do it.
I check my inserts for fit in the shaft first to make sure they'll slide in (some arrows or inserts are tough). Then I screw a broadhead ferrule into the insert, apply epoxy to the insert and slide it into the shaft. The extra drying time allows me time to spin check the arrow/broadhead to ensure alignment, adjusting if necessary. Then I set it aside and do the next one and so on.
Next day I install the blades and turn the nock to my preferred blade alignment, making them all the same; not necessarily with the fletching. Then I fletch my arrows
Those arrows will be for hunting only so the broadhead ferrule stays on them forever or till I change arrows ten years later. Also I use a broadhead that loads the blades from the front like Muzzy. I've been using InnerLoc since 2003. That way I never have to loosen the ferrule to change blades as any time you remove a ferrule it may not seat exactly the same next time and could spin crooked.
I check my inserts for fit in the shaft first to make sure they'll slide in (some arrows or inserts are tough). Then I screw a broadhead ferrule into the insert, apply epoxy to the insert and slide it into the shaft. The extra drying time allows me time to spin check the arrow/broadhead to ensure alignment, adjusting if necessary. Then I set it aside and do the next one and so on.
Next day I install the blades and turn the nock to my preferred blade alignment, making them all the same; not necessarily with the fletching. Then I fletch my arrows
Those arrows will be for hunting only so the broadhead ferrule stays on them forever or till I change arrows ten years later. Also I use a broadhead that loads the blades from the front like Muzzy. I've been using InnerLoc since 2003. That way I never have to loosen the ferrule to change blades as any time you remove a ferrule it may not seat exactly the same next time and could spin crooked.