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drenalin tuning?

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Old 08-21-2009, 04:22 AM
  #1  
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Default drenalin tuning?

Within the last few weeks, i have noticed that my goups were getting sloppy and i could see significant fishtailing of my arrows. With that, i brought it in to the local shop to do a paper test. first arrow i sent thru left a 6 inch horizontal tear in the paper! After a lot of adjustments on the rest, it is paper testing fairly good. the only issue is that my rest is so close to my riser window and my broadheads(slicktricks) wont clear. Now i will need to get all new arrows that are about 2 inches longer so i have the clearance.

I am going to try some other adjustment tonight and any input would be great. I don't think that i should have to start with new arrows, since i have been shooting these for 2 years and didn't seem to have issues before.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:29 AM
  #2  
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did you let one of the shop guys shoot your bow before you adjusted? just to see if for some reason you have started torqing or if there was a different result on the paper?

have you changed poundage?
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:31 AM
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We will need a little more info. on your setup to really diagnose the problem (rest type, draw wt., draw length, arrow-spine, length, wt.). I have a feeling your arrows are in fact the culprit in your scenario. With having to adjust that far rt. to get a decent tear I have a feeling your probably shooting an arrow that's way too stiff.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:33 AM
  #4  
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rest - trophy ridge drop zone
wt - 69 lbs
draw lngth - 30
arrow length - 28.5
spine - not real sure, i purchase some specailty arrow from a store in the area. called AC Pro 1165

arrow wt - 365

the shop guy did shoot - his wasn't as terrible as mine, but not good.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:53 AM
  #5  
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Rest adjustment more than 1/16" from center is not good. Trying to make the wrong arrow work with the wrong bow is never good. You might be able to get it BH tuned eventually but groups will always be sloppy.
 
Old 08-21-2009, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcountry
Rest adjustment more than 1/16" from center is not good. Trying to make the wrong arrow work with the wrong bow is never good. You might be able to get it BH tuned eventually but groups will always be sloppy.

True,I would question any shop that would be moving the rest to get rid of a 6" tear.There is obviously something else going on.Too much torque from a fallaway.Excessive cam lean.Fletching contact or improperly spined arrows.I even doubt shooter torque would cause that bad of a tear but it might part of it.

This is where you should start,not cranking the rest so far out of centershot that even a pro would have trouble getting solid groups.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:52 PM
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Reset your centershot. 13/16" is a good "starting" pt. I'm relatively sure you must be having fletching contact with your rest close enough to your riser that a slicktrick won't clear. 28.5 sounds like a pretty common arrow length. Do some research and try to match up some arrows to your setup. Maybe yours are fine i'm just not familiar with them. You can buy most brands in half doz. lots and even one at a time at Wallyworld. Maybe you can borrow something close to what you need. I think your inducing torque to your bow so forget shooting paper and there's no guarantee the guy at the "pro" shop is any better. As most have said adjusting your rest ridiculously close to your riser was probably the wrong way to fix your problem. Do some research on "walk back tuning" and see how that works for you. Sorry to have you doing so much research but the information is already here and there's no need to rewrite the book.

Dan
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:28 PM
  #8  
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I have seen this a few times before when folks brought me bows that their local shop set the rest either way in or way out. In all cases the culprit was a stretched buss resulting in cam lean that caused the string to hit the supressors on one side of the V block first either top or bottom causing huge arrow kick.

This has come about now because of the cable/string stretch that just got bad enough for this to happen. I will bet a nickle you will find this to be the case. The string is hitting one of the Supressors out of synch. As you can all imagine, this will cause a big "Kick" of the arrow.

Torguing will cause and certainly will amplify this. I disliked the dual VBlock supressor system for this reason. A single STS is IMO much better.

Diagnosing is sort of difficult. You may see where the string is hitting the side of one of the V Blocks (this is how I caught it the first tiime) OR you can spray some Athletes Foot spray on it and see where it scrapes it off.

Treatment of course is twisting one side of the cable to offset the lean

Good Luck,

Dryridge
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:13 AM
  #9  
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I believe it may well be a combination of any and all the things listed above. There is no cam 'sync' to worry about with a Mathews.... but there is cam rotation (set at brace) to check. There are two timing holes on dang near all Mathews bows (the Dren def has them, because thats what bow I shoot myself). They are two small holes, about a tooth pick in diameter each. I use two small allen wrenches, and insert them into those holes. Lay an arrow along the top of the two wrenches, and your arrow should be parrallel to your string. If not, then you need to twist either your string or cable. This really won't cause the issue you are talking about, but it will effect how the bow feels on the draw, and will help you get it back in spec (ie: back to square one).

If on the shot, or just after it, you notice your string is not sitting on the string suppressors, but off to one side, then you have either idler lean (like dryridge was speaking of), or you can actually slide those arms side to side slightly if you back off the allen screws a bit.

Also, and this could just as much be the problem too..... I have seen a Mathews or two come from the factory with what appears to be a limb that shoots off the riser at an odd angle. In both of the cases I've seen of this, Mathews sent a pair of new limbs and a pair of new limb pockets. This has fixed the issue in both cases. If this is the case, you'll probably notice when you draw the bow.... your cable will be rubbing the side of the cam (at the bottom), and you'll feel it slipping into the groves just as you come into the wall. You'll probably have some nasty wear spots on the SIDE (not separation like is typical on single cam bows) of your serving. Mathews is great to deal with, and Bob in their warranty department is a master at diagnosing issues. He has helped me with little nuiances I couldn't figure out many times before.
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:27 AM
  #10  
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I bet your answer is in one of the last 2 post or both of them.
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