Bare shaft tuning
05-03-2003, 03:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grand Island, NE
Posts: 62
Bare shaft tuning
I am not new to bohunting but am new to a lot of the self-tuning options out there. I have been working on some bare shaft tuning. I am getting a considerable (4-6 inches) right impact compared to fletched shafts. The bare shaft is also ending up at about a 45 degree angle to the target from 15 yards. I have been through all of the Easton tuning guide and could use some more help. Shouldn' t the bare shaft at least fly in a straight path to the target? I should a PSE bow with sting loop and Scott caliper release. I know my form needs some work but would like to be tuned for hunting at least from 15-30 yards so I know the bow is shooting well even when I' m not. I have read through a lot of the tuning tips posted on this site and just need some specific information on how a bare shaft should look from relase to impact.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
05-03-2003, 05:08 PM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: East Yapank NY USA
Posts: 3,457
RE: Bare shaft tuning
welcome nebuck
Some info on your set up would help.
What arrows and spine
your draw length
the arrow length
what tip weight
what model bow
what poundage
and what rest
The tunning of your bow is very much connected with your form. Since form has so much to do with the way the arrow leaves the bow, It is impossible to tune a bow if your form is bad.
You must have consistant and correct hand placement and pressure- (or lack of) with your bow hand. Don' t choke the grip, get it into the meat of your thumb, with your nuckles at about a 45 deg angle to the ground, and the hand must be relaxed.
Your anchor must be to the same exact point, with your head in the same exact place every shot.
I would suggest getting the tune close, then read all you can, and get all the advice you can on form - and shoot and shoot and shoot. When you get consistant, and comfortable - then really hit the tunning aspect.
Good Luck\And welcome aboard[:-]
Some info on your set up would help.
What arrows and spine
your draw length
the arrow length
what tip weight
what model bow
what poundage
and what rest
The tunning of your bow is very much connected with your form. Since form has so much to do with the way the arrow leaves the bow, It is impossible to tune a bow if your form is bad.
You must have consistant and correct hand placement and pressure- (or lack of) with your bow hand. Don' t choke the grip, get it into the meat of your thumb, with your nuckles at about a 45 deg angle to the ground, and the hand must be relaxed.
Your anchor must be to the same exact point, with your head in the same exact place every shot.
I would suggest getting the tune close, then read all you can, and get all the advice you can on form - and shoot and shoot and shoot. When you get consistant, and comfortable - then really hit the tunning aspect.
Good Luck\And welcome aboard
[:-]
05-03-2003, 05:49 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grand Island, NE
Posts: 62
RE: Bare shaft tuning
Thanks for the welcome.
I shoot a PSE Nova Extreme with the origianal NOVA cams. I have had my local Cabelas store check the timing and everything was ok but I don' t know the FPS (it' s listed as 280 in the catalog but who knows). I have been working to find some specs on the cabelas stalker extreme carbon arrows that I shoot. They are cut to 31" (I have a 30" draw) and I shoot a 100 grain points. The arrow box has 340 on it so I beleive that is the size (but I' m not sure and haven' t talked to anyone who knows). Bouwhunter magazine listed them in the medium range (10-12 gpi or somewhere around there) and they are rated for 55/80 lb draw. I
When I bought the bow, the pro shop guys said that it is set from the factory at peak draw weight which is 70 lbs. I do not have a scale to check and see what I pull now but I have not adjusted the limb bolts or altered anything else. I have a whisher biscuit rest (modified by cutting out the back) and Simms Limbsavers, and stabilizer enhancer. I' m in the market to upgrade my bow from this intro model but can' t afford to get what I want yet (i' m a teacher!!) I re-checked to make sure everything was centered but now the wind is pretty bad and I can' t shoot inside so I will have to shoot again later. I went through and check the FOC of my arrows and they were all around 14% with my field points and mechanicals. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the quick reply. I get a lot of great info from this site.
I shoot a PSE Nova Extreme with the origianal NOVA cams. I have had my local Cabelas store check the timing and everything was ok but I don' t know the FPS (it' s listed as 280 in the catalog but who knows). I have been working to find some specs on the cabelas stalker extreme carbon arrows that I shoot. They are cut to 31" (I have a 30" draw) and I shoot a 100 grain points. The arrow box has 340 on it so I beleive that is the size (but I' m not sure and haven' t talked to anyone who knows). Bouwhunter magazine listed them in the medium range (10-12 gpi or somewhere around there) and they are rated for 55/80 lb draw. I
When I bought the bow, the pro shop guys said that it is set from the factory at peak draw weight which is 70 lbs. I do not have a scale to check and see what I pull now but I have not adjusted the limb bolts or altered anything else. I have a whisher biscuit rest (modified by cutting out the back) and Simms Limbsavers, and stabilizer enhancer. I' m in the market to upgrade my bow from this intro model but can' t afford to get what I want yet (i' m a teacher!!) I re-checked to make sure everything was centered but now the wind is pretty bad and I can' t shoot inside so I will have to shoot again later. I went through and check the FOC of my arrows and they were all around 14% with my field points and mechanicals. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the quick reply. I get a lot of great info from this site.
05-03-2003, 07:29 PM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Aliquippa PA USA
Posts: 7
RE: Bare shaft tuning
Move your rest to the left in small increments (1/32) if it doesn' t go away and you arrow is more than 3/8th to the left if center your prob. punching the trigger if you use a release try triggering with the second segment of your finger. don' t feel bad I have this problem from time to time. hope this helped.
05-07-2003, 08:22 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Grand Island, NE
Posts: 62
Razorback broadhead?
Thanks for the help. I am back now to shooting with everything pretty much center shot, and my nock set slightly high. I realized that I need to work on shooting form a bit more before I work on fine tuning.
I' m finding it hard to trigger my release using back tension and feel my trigger control is the biggest error in my shooting. Could I benefit from shortening my draw slightly?
Also, has any shot the Razorback broadhead by NAP? I' ve been shooting Thunderheads and would like to see how a heavier head groups. I like the idea of the Razorback but wondered how it worked.
I' m finding it hard to trigger my release using back tension and feel my trigger control is the biggest error in my shooting. Could I benefit from shortening my draw slightly?
Also, has any shot the Razorback broadhead by NAP? I' ve been shooting Thunderheads and would like to see how a heavier head groups. I like the idea of the Razorback but wondered how it worked.
