TFOX

Derek,have you ever payed attention to Lanny's anchors? He is back on his face as well.

JoshKeller

here it is with the added 1/2" of draw and a longer loop. Cant go anymore in draw length now, unless i want to buy a new bow (hmmmmm)
And since my arrows are about 3/8" from the rest.
Also the little fuse silencer blew into 100 peices today. My groups shrank about 1" at 40 yards since that happened - coincidence?

JoshKeller

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OHbowhntr

I think it looks fairly good, the real test is how well you shoot, regardless of form really though.....ain't it??? I know that after doing some reading up on it, I start loosely locking my bowarm out at the elbow, and I found a better consistency. I also think the anchor point is up for debate as long as it's not creating left-right issues, or torque issues, you can work with a variety of anchors and still be okay as long as you keep ONE consistent anchor wherever it may be!!! Just my uneducated $.02.

drockw

I think it looks great in the new pics. I believe that if you work with that and get comfortable with it, even if you dont shoot better just yet, you will eventually. You are still a little bit back, BUT... if that is how you like it, then by all means go with it.

You will probably notice that your bow arm doesnt get sore or tired as quickly anymore b/c it isnt bent out.

The little Fuse string grub thing Garbage IMHO. My first AM35, the grub lasted about 3 days lol. On my secondbow it lasted about a week. I wouldnt imagine that it caused your groups to shrink.You were probablyjust having a good day.

Good shootin~

Derek

TFOX

I must say the elbow looks a little better to me.The draw length is something YOU have to decide on.BUT,from the pics,I doubt longer from the latest pics will yield positive results.You can get a better elbow position without changing the draw length.


The elbow is still out but looking better,I believe that is why the groups are smaller but I don't have those junk fuse silencers on my bow.


It also looks as though you have the majority of your weight on your front foot.I prefer a 50/50 split,some prefer weight forward but imo,this will affect uphill and downhill shots negatively.

JoshKeller

Thanks guys. I'm gonna work on getting better pics, outside tomorrow. The 5 second timer on my camera just isnt enough time to get everything lined up. Maybe that explains the weight forward, as I generally make it a point to stand level when I have the time to settle in and squeeze the shot off. Never really had a problem with arm fatigue, as its only set on about 58 lbs, but I do notice that I can feel the grip of the bow more inline with the bone in my forearm. I'm really thinking I should have got the am35 at my draw length, because i think the short ATA is the reason I needed to lengthen my draw to get the string to touch my nose. As is, if I execute the release perfectly by surprise, the arrow goes right where I'm looking. Otherwise, it may be an inch or two off, but this is at 30 and 40 yards. Still mastering the backtension with an index finger release - it was much easier with a t handle.

TFOX

This is one of the reasons I suggest that longer draw length shooters use longer bows.Hell,my draw length is 28" and I shoot the 35.At 30" draw,i would't go below 38" a-a

drockw

That is why form is important. Some things like anchor or DL are subjective performance wise to the individual, but anatomy isnt (obviously unless the person has some kind of physical disabilities disabling them from proper alignment). that is why i shoot with a more open stance, b/c it allows me to lock my shoulder socket, and make my elbow alignent very stong, which allows me to hold VERY steady. Too bad holding steady is only a small part of the equation

Derek

JOE PA

Josh:

I agree that the second set of pics looks a little better, even though the first set didn't look too bad. At 30" draw, if you want to touch your nose with the string, the 35 would have been better. Of course, if you were a wooden puppet, you could just tell 1, maybe 2 lies and take care of the problem.