RidgeRunr

I know this question has come up more than once in the past few weeks but I am having trouble getting rid of the high left tear. I am shooting a 2002 Hoyt Cybertec with versacam #2 set at 62 lbs 28 draw 27" beman ics 400' s 100 grn tip 3 4" AAE vanes right helical Tru Ball short-n-sweet release TT original drop away. My bow originally came with the versacam 3 but i had it changed along with the string and cables. Ever since then, I have not been able to get a bullet out of it. Before the change I could. I have checked the timing on the rest(according to TT last 1 1/2-2" of draw is when you want it to rise). I get good groups out to 40 yards(my comfort zone) but can' t get the bullet as before. Should this be something to worry with or what should I check. Thanks for the help. Chris

TFOX

How high is the tear?How much left is it?A little tear is good but a lot isn' t.

You may have good groups with field points but when you install broadheads you will see a problem.

I know you are using a fallaway but it is possible to have some fletching contact so that would be the first place I would start.Also I would move the knock down to see if that would help get some of the high tear out.The left might be a spine issue.It is possible that they are a little light in spine.



Now with the cam change.Just sitting here and reading your post.I would tend to believe that this is where the problem really is.How does the cam and idler lean look.Are you possitive that the strings and cables are correct?If their is lean on the idler then you need to twist the cable where it attaches to the axle to try and pull the idler back straight.If it is in the cam there may not be much that can be done.

Bigpapascout

It could be that you are getting fletch contact
If your arrows are fishtailing that is the problem
but if you are getting good groups I wouldnt worry too mutch about it
you may want to check your centershot with a guage to make sure you are ligned up right.

Big Country

I have the same question as TFOX, how much tear high/left?

I tune my bows differently than alot of people do nowdays.
If I get a bullethole at 6 feet, I immediately tune it out, so that I get a high and away tear. For a right hand shooter, that would be high/left. The length of the tear is not real important to me as long as it is not over 3/4"

Once I get a high/away tear going, I back up until it becomes a bullethole. If this does not occur inside of 16-18 yards, I adjust until it does bullethole by that distance.
Once that is done, I go right to 50 yards, if I am grouping tight, and the bow is forgiving, then I get the broadheads out. They are the ultimate test for tune.

BTW, my broadheads shoot like fieldpoints at 285fps with a high/away tear at 6 feet.

Hope this might help, it works for me.

ijimmy

A couple things you might try are finding out the proper string and cabel length and measuring yours to see if they are correct . Next I would findout from someone in the know how the cam should be indexed and make sure it was in the proper rotation , that relates to string and cabel length allso . These things greatly effect nock travel on single cams and are things you should consider if you are haveing up-down tuneing problems that will not go away .

TFOX

What would concern me most is not the tear but the fact you can' t get rid of it.That is a sign that something is off somewhere.You should be able to achieve a bullet hole from any bow,even if it doesn' t shoot best set up that way.


Also,did you change the idler wheel when you made the cam swap?I am pretty sure that it needs to be changed also.


I have had the same problem as you with a bow that I hadn' t changed the cam on and I was also using a Trophy Taker.The problem was the arrow along with the cam being over rotated to pick up a few pounds.Spine will make a difference.Fall away rest don' t let you cheat and get bullet holes out of poorly spined arrows.

RidgeRunr

The cam and idler lean look fine to me(parallel with limbs). I have checked for fletching contact and didn' t have any. I tried the lipstick deal and didn' t have the first smear. The string, cables, idler and cam were ordered at the same time from Hoyt. Measured before install and made sure they were right. As far as how high and how far left. High is about 1 1/2" , left is about 1/4" . I know a slight high left (high 1/4-1/2" left 1/4-1/2) is idea about 5 yards out. So the left should be good but the high isn' t.

Thanks for the replies. I will try moving the nok down when it quits this storming. Again, THANKS for your help. Chris

CargoF16

Ridgerunr
from a former paper tuning fanatic, fugetaboutit. I used to paper tune to bullet holes and sight in. That was it and I shot good. Then I got a Bowtech Pat Dually and to get bullet holes I had to make some funky adjustments with my rest that just seemed odd. With bullet holes I shot good. Then I decided to creep tune, just because. And that tightened things up. That worked so I decided to group tune. Group tuning is a little more adventurous because theres not really a science to it but it paid off in spades. I' ve arrowed three arrows in the past three weeks and my 40 yard groups now look better than my 20 yard groups then. Yea I' ll have to group tune again with broad heads but that' s not a detractor for me, I' m looking forward to it.

RidgeRunr

Thanks for the help. I guess I had my head up my rear because I started trying it again today from square one. Reset center shot, checked rest timing, cam/idler timing, everything. Well, to say the least, my bow is shooting better than ever. just 1 adjustment on my nok, about 3 on my rest and it was time to sight in. I had a 1/8" high and 1/8" left(rh shooter). I backed out to 15 yards and it was bullets. Tried 20 and it was bullets. Sometimes we just need to go back to the beginning and start over I guess. The real kicker was when I was sighting in, I ended up with a Robin. That makes 2 and it is starting to get expensive. Anyway, thanks agin for the reality check. Chris

TFOX

Glad to see you got it and it wasn' t anything major.

It is amazing how things and come out if you just start over from the beginning.

I actually just went through the something quite similar.The last 3 weeks my scores were horrible and got to reading on another forum about timing on the cam 1/2 needing to be set.Well I had taken my bow apart to find a sqeak and I got rid of it but when I put it back together I just made sure the timing marks were right and forgot about it.WRONG,you must time the modules in also.I totally redid my bow this morning and had some 1" groups at 30 and about 2" groups at 40.Good day to say the least but it is nice knowing that my bow and I are capable again.I really don' t shoot this well all the time but I do have my days.IT' S FUN AGAIN.