muzzyman88

This brings up a question I have about whether I'm doing something correctly or thinking about it the right way. I have always set center shot based on the center of that curve on the shelf to get started. I then go to paper tuning. BUT, I have never really paid any attention to my left and right tears so long as they're not ridiculous, only vertical tears. I adjustthe vertical tear outonly. This way I know my vertical is close. I then go to walk back tuning to set my horizontal adjustment.

Of course I do all of this knowing that I have the correct spined arrow. I've done this in the past and have gotten very good field point and broadhead groups this way.

Cougar Mag

I have rarely gotten bullet holes and if I do I generally have to make changes anyway. I am not big on paper tuning but I do use it as a starting point.

One thing I am going to have to learn with these binary cams is..........can I tiller tune as I did in the past with dual cam bows? Even if it throws the tiller measurements off a hair? I always tiller tuned my dual cam bows to get the best groups available at 50-60 yards. Always worked for me, especially shooting broadheads. I started doing that after reading an article by Frank Pearson on tiller tuning your bow to shrink groups at 60 yards.

bigcountry

Honestly, that is the shortcut. Setting by a measurement is the long way around

WV Hunter

Amen to that!