burniegoeasily

I have shot with shoot around rests on my hunting bows up until recently. I have recently put on a shoot through, bow doodle to be exact, when I swiched over to carbon arrows. I have been trying to paper tune, and have bare shaft tuned for over a week. Every time I get it to where I feel it is tuned I end up getting a fish tell. I can not get more than two arrows at a time to fly with out a fish tell. I have been shooting for over 15 years and am beside my self. Any advice? Should I go with another rest? Help please.

I am new to carbon shafts, I have the right spine for my weight. Is there something to carbon shafts I should know? Im treating them like aluminum when I tune.

Woody116

Ahh...a fellow struggler.

I bought the bodoodle zapper 300 and have had some trouble with it. I am getting a low tear that i cant shake. Everyone has told me to move my nock up. I even called bodoodle and spoke with one of their staff and he told me to start over with my nock 1/4" high and work down. He also said that I should tiller tune and will probably end up with the lower tiller 1/4-1/2 turn ahead of the top.
He also suggested paper tuning with the paper right at the bow, not 6' away as I was doing. He said this shows spine more than anything. He said by having the paper right on the bow it will show what the rest is doing.
Last, he told me that with carbons they tend to be under spined, and I should consider going heavier than what the charts say.
Hope this helps.

burniegoeasily

Thanks woody116. I have my tiller set even. I shoot two hard cams, should I still change my tiller. It sounds like you are getting the same problem Im having.

As for the carbon arrows. My bow is set at 65lbs, I use carbon express 6075s I feel the shafts are strong enough.

You have been helpful. I think Im going to move my paper closer. I wouldnt have thought of that.

Thanks agian.

c903

Throw it through your wall, and mount a " GFK Golden Premier."

Deleted User

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Rack-attack

Ahhhhhh nice to see its contageous

Let the anger flow, breathe and then smash something expensive[:-]

try to narrow down the problem:

1) Are you getting fletching contact

2) what type of tear are you getting

3) is it consistant

4) Can you get the new carbons to tune with your old shoot around

Sometimes shoot thru' s go against normal thoughts of nock position. A nock low tear usually means the nocking point must be moved up. On shoot thru' s it may be the opposite. Sometimes the arrow bounces off the top support (because the nock is too high) and tears low. If this is the case you need to chase the tear with the nock. They can be a real pain to get set up. Unlike fallaways - that are always easy[]

P.S. - hitting the sheet rock between the beams creats the best visual effects

bigbulls

Are you shooting with fingers or a release. If you are using your fingers then go back to your shoot around or switch to a release. When you shoot with fingers you torque the string and your arrow will have the tendancy to fishtail more and the shoot thru rest can not do anything about it like a shoot around rest can.

PABowhntr

Assuming a mechanical release aid is used and since you mentioned that you seem to sometimes be getting bulletholes and other times you are getting tears....I would guess one of two things...

1. Your torquing the grip during some of the shots.

2. Some of your arrows are not correctly spined or have potential cracks in an underlying layer of the shaft.

Something else to consider is that if you are shooting a single cam or hard dual cam bow then try the next stiffer spine size. It is generally accepted that these types of cams generally require a stiffer spine than what is on most of the charts.

Lastly, and this is a personal bias and not necessarily actual advice, you might just want to group tune the bow and leave the paper tuning go for awhile. It can be frustrating at times and if you place too much stock in it then you end up ruining the entire shooting experience.

JOE PA

Paper tuning can be much like patterning a shotgun. Addictive and frustrating![]

Other posters here seem to know more about your setup than is in this thread. The easiest rest to tune for me has been a Centerest Flipper. If you modify them slightly, you can shoot full helical fletch with even skinny carbons.

If you are frustrated enough to take Rack Attack' s advise, be sure that you are well between the studs or you will have an even bigger problem!

burniegoeasily

I just about got it. Im getting a small tear to the left lower. I readjusted my tiller, my lower limb was a little off. I have been slowly moving my rest. I have adjusted the tension spring, had to make it a little stiffer. My fleching is clearing. I shoot with a release (split fire), I also use a lanyard to attach my release to. I have never used a lanyard before, it new to me. I use to use a flipper type release on the string. I use to use a overdraw, when I replaced the overdraw, I put on a new Zebra string, so Im kinda strating a new.

I got in to this problem when I removed my overdraw and went to carbon. I felt it was safer to remove the overdraw, and I didnt see a need for it with carbon arrows.

I do appreaciate the advice. I have a few new tricks to check now, thanks to all of you. When I get home Ill try some of them. Like I said, I just about have it where I want it.


Thanks agian