adjusting my new bow?
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 11
adjusting my new bow?
Just got a browning rage (Merry Christmas ). The draw weight is fine but how do I change the length? I think its a 30 and I'm somewhere around 27 1/2. Or could I take it to bass pro and have them do it?
edit
got a few more questions. 1- what kind of broadheads (fixed blade preferred) do yall recommend for deer hunting? 2- do the broad heads just screw into the field tips or should I not put the field tips in if i want to have broad heads? Thanks.
edit
got a few more questions. 1- what kind of broadheads (fixed blade preferred) do yall recommend for deer hunting? 2- do the broad heads just screw into the field tips or should I not put the field tips in if i want to have broad heads? Thanks.
#2
RE: adjusting my new bow?
ORIGINAL: stealthsniper96
Just got a browning rage (Merry Christmas ). The draw weight is fine but how do I change the length? I think its a 30 and I'm somewhere around 27 1/2. Or could I take it to bass pro and have them do it?
edit
got a few more questions. 1- what kind of broadheads (fixed blade preferred) do yall recommend for deer hunting? 2- do the broad heads just screw into the field tips or should I not put the field tips in if i want to have broad heads? Thanks.
Just got a browning rage (Merry Christmas ). The draw weight is fine but how do I change the length? I think its a 30 and I'm somewhere around 27 1/2. Or could I take it to bass pro and have them do it?
edit
got a few more questions. 1- what kind of broadheads (fixed blade preferred) do yall recommend for deer hunting? 2- do the broad heads just screw into the field tips or should I not put the field tips in if i want to have broad heads? Thanks.
#3
RE: adjusting my new bow?
I have a few questions and recommendations. Are you new at this archery game? If so then I would not even give a thought to what broadheads would be the best for you. You're likely quite a ways from being ready to hunt.
You know how to shoot and tune a bow? This is things you need to learn before thinking about what broadheads are the best, because the best won't do you any good if you can't tune the equipment to get them to fly well. Just learn more about shooting form, getting the draw length to fit you to a tee. Learn how to tune your equipment and basically how it works. This all takes time. During that time you'll learn a lot and if you get active with a club you'll pick up a lot of useful information and hints along the way.
Maybe some time next summer you can think about broadheads.
You know how to shoot and tune a bow? This is things you need to learn before thinking about what broadheads are the best, because the best won't do you any good if you can't tune the equipment to get them to fly well. Just learn more about shooting form, getting the draw length to fit you to a tee. Learn how to tune your equipment and basically how it works. This all takes time. During that time you'll learn a lot and if you get active with a club you'll pick up a lot of useful information and hints along the way.
Maybe some time next summer you can think about broadheads.
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 11
RE: adjusting my new bow?
ORIGINAL: BGfisher
Are you new at this archery game? If so then I would not even give a thought to what broadheads would be the best for you. You're likely quite a ways from being ready to hunt.
Are you new at this archery game? If so then I would not even give a thought to what broadheads would be the best for you. You're likely quite a ways from being ready to hunt.
#5
RE: adjusting my new bow?
Read my first post. There are a lot of things to learn before needing to worry about broadheads. Nobody here or on any other board can tell which is the best broadhead, or the best anything. They can only tell you what they've used and foound to be the best that they've tried. And nobody has tried them all so anybody's opinion is based on limited experience.
You can pick any broadhead you like and get it to fly well once you know how to tune your equipment. The old cliche of "You have to learn how to crawl before you walk" holds very true in archery. Once you gain consistency in your shooting form and learn how to adjust your equipment broadhead tuning should be a lot easier.
Try to put this into persepective. If you would do a lot of shooting you might fling 5000 arrows out of the bow in a year. If you can shoot and tune you might have your bow tuned close enough that no adjustments are necessary to shoot broadheads when that time comes. If this happens (like me) then shoot about 20 shots a year for practice with broadheads and maybe a couple shots on game. Give it rthe benefit of a doubt and say 50 shots. So what are on the end of you arrows for the rest of your shots during the year.
I know some guys shoot broadheads a lot, but if you get involved with 3D or any target type venue then you aren't allowed to shoot broadheads. And really, what's the purpose. They make field (practice) points for a reason. Field points cost about $3 a dozen. Broadheads cost from $4 to $12 each.
You can pick any broadhead you like and get it to fly well once you know how to tune your equipment. The old cliche of "You have to learn how to crawl before you walk" holds very true in archery. Once you gain consistency in your shooting form and learn how to adjust your equipment broadhead tuning should be a lot easier.
Try to put this into persepective. If you would do a lot of shooting you might fling 5000 arrows out of the bow in a year. If you can shoot and tune you might have your bow tuned close enough that no adjustments are necessary to shoot broadheads when that time comes. If this happens (like me) then shoot about 20 shots a year for practice with broadheads and maybe a couple shots on game. Give it rthe benefit of a doubt and say 50 shots. So what are on the end of you arrows for the rest of your shots during the year.
I know some guys shoot broadheads a lot, but if you get involved with 3D or any target type venue then you aren't allowed to shoot broadheads. And really, what's the purpose. They make field (practice) points for a reason. Field points cost about $3 a dozen. Broadheads cost from $4 to $12 each.