Rack-attack

Yea that makes sense but it wont help[:@]

The range of the launcher is fixed, so if I angle the back down the nocking point has to be lowered and I chase my tail in circles again

The launcher arm has to be longer, or I need to prop up the v-notch to get the arrow higher, allowing me to lower the back as you said. I will play with it tonight - again.

But I do not want to rig it, unless I do a real good job rigging

huntmup

I' ve got the TT shakey hunter on my 2002 SC Patriot - 70#, 27" draw.

For hunting I shot 4 VANE 4" with a LH - and was getting contact - I rotated the nock & was able to get clearance by having a vane not straight down at 6:00 but more like 5:00 - just so it would clear that pc of steel that holds the string that attaches to the cable.

I used spray foot powder to determine the location of the contact & by re-orienting the vane I could acheive proper clearance.

For 3D I use the same setup but with little vanes (1.75" or less) and they are shorter (from center of shaft OUT I mean - not length) so I have NO clearance problems with ANY orientation.

I like the TT - it works better (for me) than my MZE did!

Rack-attack

huntmup - yup I hit that tab also, actually I have hit about every thing on that reat at one point or another[:@] I just can' t find the sweet spot, Nor should I have to with a drop away.

CG

I' ve seen posts that indicate that nock travel is an issue. I shoot a a PSE Avenger w/ U1 cam and was having a similar problem but finally after twisting this and untwisting that, etc. my nock travel leveled out greatly and had no fletching contact. I' m very happy with the trophy taker.....

bowjunkie

Rack-attack, I had the same rest on a ' 02 patriot. I shoot a GT 22 series with a 4" vane. Here is the trick. set the arrow level in the holes in the riser then move the nocking point up till you eliminate vane contact. Once you get their ( it will look way tail high) it will be close to a bullet hole. Well mine was. I was shooting 3" groups with a 4 blade 115gr muzzy at 70 yds with this setup. Email me if you have anymore Questions. [email protected]. Let me know if it works. Brian

bigbulls

I had similar trouble with a QT 2000. Like bowjunkie said it finally went away when I moved the string loop higher that it normally would be. It looks real wierd but I am getting bullet holes now. It almost looks like the arrow is taking a nose dive.

huntmup

RA - I mis-spoke earlier... I have what would be my cock feather at 7:00 not 5:00 (to mis that tab)

I' d also 2nd the nock travel issue - My Pro38 was (is) having issues with contact & a guy ' in the know' has recommended a 3/8" (yes three eighths inch) high nock...

I looked at him like he had four eyes - I think I want a different bow...

good luck

DaveC

Doesn' t moving the nock point way high have a negative effect as far as power stroke goes? I always figured the arrow would get slung the hardest from the center of the string because that point is the furthest from either axle which should equal the most power stoke available.
Am I off on this one?

Hyawatha

In the set up instructions that came with my dual cam Golden Eagle, it clearly states for the nock to be 3/8" to start, and adjust accordingly.

3/8" works for me and my bow. Shoots nicely.

CLOUD 9, MN

Rack-attack........I have a 02 Patriot and a Shakey hunter. Mine works, but it did take some tinkering. As someone earlier stated, that your nocking point needs to be alittle high, so is mine, but thats also where it shoots bullet holes. I wouldn' t use the rubber cord. How is it attached to the bow........to a cable and cable slide. Some people are trying the cable slide and it won' t work on the Patriot. I am shooting 4" feathers which are worse than vanes.