What the.....?!?!?
#11
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
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Woody:
I am a little confused. Are your shafts leaving a " Tail down" tear? Or, are your arrows punching " bullet holes," but hitting lower than where you are aiming?
At what distance are you paper-tuning from target, what is the axle 2 axle length of your bow, and how tight do your nocks fit to string?
I am a little confused. Are your shafts leaving a " Tail down" tear? Or, are your arrows punching " bullet holes," but hitting lower than where you are aiming?
At what distance are you paper-tuning from target, what is the axle 2 axle length of your bow, and how tight do your nocks fit to string?
#12
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
Posts: 56
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When all else fails, this calls for drastic measures. I spent 2 1/2 hours the other day tuning. I suggest trying everything mone the rest in all directions something stupid, and if it does something that doesn' t look good then you have something, you can move it stupid the other way. Don' t be afraid to do stupid things so that you can learn how your bow is working. I sugest that you start by moving the rest as close to the bow as you can get to start with.
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Homer LA USA
Posts: 97
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Try shooting a bare shaft through paper. I have fought the paper tuning gods for days to find out I was getting some contact with my fletchings. Even though the clearance looks good try the bare shaft anyway. See what you get.
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North East Illinois
Posts: 140
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c903
It is leaving a tail down tear. The tear is almost dead center, so I think I have everything centered.
I didnt get out to play this weekend, and we got some snow last nite, so I think getting back out will be delayed a little.
Oh, and I started at 6' from the paper tune stand.
ACC-328- Unfortunatly I am on a very tight budget and got new arrows for Christmas. Only got 1/2 dzn carbons to try out. I am planning to get rid of the overdraw when I buy new arrows. Gotta deal with them for the time being.
It is leaving a tail down tear. The tear is almost dead center, so I think I have everything centered.
I didnt get out to play this weekend, and we got some snow last nite, so I think getting back out will be delayed a little.
Oh, and I started at 6' from the paper tune stand.
ACC-328- Unfortunatly I am on a very tight budget and got new arrows for Christmas. Only got 1/2 dzn carbons to try out. I am planning to get rid of the overdraw when I buy new arrows. Gotta deal with them for the time being.
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
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Since you have a Pro Formula and they are a twin cam, (I believe) I would check to see if the cams are in sync. The only times I have had persistent low tears with twin cam bows has been when the bottom cam has been advanced (ahead) compared to the upper cam. If I remember the Pro Formula correctly (never shot one but did draw a few) it does not have a real firm wall, so it would be harder to tell whether the cams were in sync than a bow with a firmer wall. If that is not the problem, then I would think you would have to keep raising the nock pt. as Rack Attack said. Brass nock sets can be a problem, I guess, but I am shooting them on two of my bows right now and both of them tune well. JMH0
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North East Illinois
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It is a twin cam, and they are in time for now. However, I tried creep tuning and found that I am hitting about 4" high when I release at the front of the valley. I need to advance the lower cam a little, but I dont have a bow press.
You are very correct about the soft wall, that is a seperate issue that I am working on now. One shop told me it is due to the bushings being bad, another told me that isnt the case. It is set up for a 30" draw, (my length) but I can get another 3/4" -1" out of it. This is due to the bushings according to the one shop. The other said it has nothing to due with it.
You are very correct about the soft wall, that is a seperate issue that I am working on now. One shop told me it is due to the bushings being bad, another told me that isnt the case. It is set up for a 30" draw, (my length) but I can get another 3/4" -1" out of it. This is due to the bushings according to the one shop. The other said it has nothing to due with it.
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North East Illinois
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Tonite I got an email from Bodoodle advising me to call them tomorrow and speak with Lewis. They said that I am having a problem that " I should not be having" with this rest and I need a " really personal touch" .
Big PROPS to them for this. I get very, very frustrated with customer service (any customer service) these days because I feel that it just isnt there anymore. I have read many times on here that archery companies are different, and that so far seems to be the case now.
I will post what happens when it does.
Big PROPS to them for this. I get very, very frustrated with customer service (any customer service) these days because I feel that it just isnt there anymore. I have read many times on here that archery companies are different, and that so far seems to be the case now.
I will post what happens when it does.
#18
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398
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I seriously doubt that the bushings have anything to do with the wall being soft. That is more of a result of the cam track not having a " flat" area to come to rest against the cable at full draw. Bushing wear could result in cam lean, but it would have to be pretty bad to affect the feel of the valley.
I gather from your other thread that you are shooting the Bodoodle Zapper. I haven' t tried one of them, but I did shoot a Stalkmaster for a while. I have heard that you need to have the top prong slightly above the arrow for the Zapper to work correctly. I' m not sure if that is the case or not. I do know that I am shooting better and tuning is easier with an aluminum Whisker Biscuit than I did with the ICS size biscuit. The extra room seems to help for some reason.
I gather from your other thread that you are shooting the Bodoodle Zapper. I haven' t tried one of them, but I did shoot a Stalkmaster for a while. I have heard that you need to have the top prong slightly above the arrow for the Zapper to work correctly. I' m not sure if that is the case or not. I do know that I am shooting better and tuning is easier with an aluminum Whisker Biscuit than I did with the ICS size biscuit. The extra room seems to help for some reason.
#19
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Location: North East Illinois
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Yes, I am shooting the Zapper 300. My first time out it was learned real quick that the upper fins need to be off the arrow. Once I got them adjusted so that they barely clear the shaft, it was a huge difference.
#20
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They dont need to be off the arrow just flat and give the same pressure and same angle on the arrow from each fin on top. I paper tuned my Zapper 400 today, it was a breeze, I had previously tried an Arrow trap from GKF but paper tuning it was a nightmare.