A broadhead tuning question
#1
A broadhead tuning question
So I have done my bareshaft tuning, worked out good, then I did walkback tuning back to about 30 yards which is as far back as I can go in my yard. My arrows were angling off a bit, so I corrected that with a rest adjustment, amd I was ready to move on to broadhead tuning.
For my broadhead tuning I decided to put on some big Magnus stingers I had (worst case scenario) and went to tune. At 25 yards they are shooting amaybe 3 incheslow and right (I am a left handed shooter), which is too much for me.
Now for the questions. Am I trying to make the broadhead impact with the field point, or vice versa? What direction do I move the rest?
Also, when I shoot groups, they are flattened out horizontally. Vertically my arrows are stacking very tight, I kind of hate to mess with the vertical on the rest. Now horizontal, I don't mind messing with it because I can tell there is possibly some issue there.
I am probably going to be shooting Slick Tricks come hunting season, so am I messing up by trying to tune with a big broadhead? I just figured it would make any problems more apparrent and easier to see. I may be wrong.
Ultimately I am a hunter. I don't shoot 3D or any competitions. The bottom line is that my broadheads need to go dead on where I need them at any range under 30 yards. Where would you guys go from here.
BTW, I did read the thread "Don't stop at walkback" and it answered alot of my questions. It is a good thread, but my real concern is broadhead accuracy at <30 yards. Same principles apply? My arrows are on the heavy side of spine, but TFOX said his program said they should be okay.
For my broadhead tuning I decided to put on some big Magnus stingers I had (worst case scenario) and went to tune. At 25 yards they are shooting amaybe 3 incheslow and right (I am a left handed shooter), which is too much for me.
Now for the questions. Am I trying to make the broadhead impact with the field point, or vice versa? What direction do I move the rest?
Also, when I shoot groups, they are flattened out horizontally. Vertically my arrows are stacking very tight, I kind of hate to mess with the vertical on the rest. Now horizontal, I don't mind messing with it because I can tell there is possibly some issue there.
I am probably going to be shooting Slick Tricks come hunting season, so am I messing up by trying to tune with a big broadhead? I just figured it would make any problems more apparrent and easier to see. I may be wrong.
Ultimately I am a hunter. I don't shoot 3D or any competitions. The bottom line is that my broadheads need to go dead on where I need them at any range under 30 yards. Where would you guys go from here.
BTW, I did read the thread "Don't stop at walkback" and it answered alot of my questions. It is a good thread, but my real concern is broadhead accuracy at <30 yards. Same principles apply? My arrows are on the heavy side of spine, but TFOX said his program said they should be okay.
#2
RE: A broadhead tuning question
I would tune to the Broahead you will be shooting. Those stingers are going to catch a lot of air and may fly a lot different than the Tricks.
When broadhead tuning move the rest opposite where the arrows are impacting. You should move your rest to the left. If they are impacting low move your knocking point down a little that should bring them up. You don't need to adjust up and down with the rest.
When broadhead tuning move the rest opposite where the arrows are impacting. You should move your rest to the left. If they are impacting low move your knocking point down a little that should bring them up. You don't need to adjust up and down with the rest.
#3
RE: A broadhead tuning question
Gotcha, will do. I am not sure yet I have a problem with the verticle, it is grouping real tight in that plane, just the broadheads are lower a little. The main issue is horizontal. Stingers have always seemed to fly low to me, even when all other things were okay. I am waiting for my 125 grain tricks to come in which is why I am not using them to tune with yet. I will try some 125 thunderheads I have tonight, see if they do better.
May try some group tuning also and see where that gets me.
May try some group tuning also and see where that gets me.
#4
RE: A broadhead tuning question
I broadhead tune as described in the Easton tuning guide as my last step before hunting.
Shoot a group of FP's and then a group of BH's. Compare the groups. Your up and down you can adjust with knocking point. If they are low move the nock down, if they are high it is the opposite.
Your R and L adjust with the rest. If hitting right move the rest to the left, if hitting left move the rest to the right.
Don't try and fix both at the same time. Do one and then the other. It takes a while to do. Move the rest and then re sight in with the FP's and then shoot the BH's. They will get closer every time until you find the right spot. Then go on to the up and down. Usually take me a few days as I get tired before I get all the adjustments made. The BH's will really let you know when your form starts suffering.
Shoot a group of FP's and then a group of BH's. Compare the groups. Your up and down you can adjust with knocking point. If they are low move the nock down, if they are high it is the opposite.
Your R and L adjust with the rest. If hitting right move the rest to the left, if hitting left move the rest to the right.
Don't try and fix both at the same time. Do one and then the other. It takes a while to do. Move the rest and then re sight in with the FP's and then shoot the BH's. They will get closer every time until you find the right spot. Then go on to the up and down. Usually take me a few days as I get tired before I get all the adjustments made. The BH's will really let you know when your form starts suffering.