Maintaining minimal pin float.
#1
Maintaining minimal pin float.
Now that I'm a few weeks into my left hand shooting, I've been concentrating much more on my form, and although I've been able to get some pretty solid grouping down at 30-40yds, I still get fliers, and what I feel is excessive pin float. I know that you should have some float, but not as much as I have. I read over on AT (someone clarify whether this is true) that you shouldn't have much more than about 1" in total area of float (on the target). For example, on a Morrell bag, the pin should float, but never leave the black dot on the target. Well, in my case, the pin is always moving around (about 4-5") around the dot...some times a lot more. I notice it moves more later in my practice as I have shot a lot of arrows and begin tiring. So, could my DL be a touch off? Is the bow a bit unbalanced yet (I have a 10" stab)? Or is there some other trick to this? I'm going to continue practicing (I've been shooting everyday this week about 60 arrows a day), so hopefully it improves, but it's a bit frustrating at times.
#2
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
Ive noticed with me sometimes if I shoot everyday Ill tend to get more pin float "less steady" alot sooner in my practice seasions. I try and take a day or two off and let your musscles rest, you my not feel tired but it probably will help. If your draw length is a bit long it could cause you to tire quicker, it tends to give you that stretched out feel and makes it a chore to hold your bow up. As far as pin float, I dont know about the 1" rule. I get alot more than that specialy at 40+ yards. I dont know how experienced you are so I dont want to insult you, but learning how to time your shot is the biggest thing for me. Regardless of how well your bow fits you, how good your form is, your pin will move around on the target. Conditions can cause more or less pin movement but practicing your timing and getting consistant with that will make you more consistant over all when shooting.
#3
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
Passthru79 makes some good points.
One other to add pertains to your draw weight.
If your draw weight is too much...you will tire faster and your pin will float more. Yeah it might feel good for the first 20-30 shots, but how does it feel after 70 or 80 shots?
The 1" rule is new to me. I've been hunting for 14 years now....not even sure I could stay within a 1" area of total float.
One other to add pertains to your draw weight.
If your draw weight is too much...you will tire faster and your pin will float more. Yeah it might feel good for the first 20-30 shots, but how does it feel after 70 or 80 shots?
The 1" rule is new to me. I've been hunting for 14 years now....not even sure I could stay within a 1" area of total float.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,985
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
Try to ignore the pins and focus on where you want to hit.If I try to hold the pin I move more...maybe why I shoot better splitting the pins.Seems like the pins block my focus point and I'm attempting to remove it!
#6
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
I'm not sure at what range you are talking about pin float, but 1" is awfully steady at any range.
If someone holds that steady they should never miss that quarter size target now should they.
Good info above about poundage and resting those muscles
Dan
If someone holds that steady they should never miss that quarter size target now should they.
Good info above about poundage and resting those muscles
Dan
#7
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
Matt,
Great post, I've been working on this veryissue this Summer and it can be frustrating. I've never heard the 1" rule but I'm learning just like you. Things I've have noticed in my routine is I shoot much better if I shoot fewer arrows (30 to 40)andreally focus on the taget instead of my pins. Yes, my pins will move around, but I seem to get much better groupsthis way. I still geta flyer once in a great while but not nearly as much if I keep shooting more arrows. I think a shorter more concentrated practice routines helps more, than a longer drawn out session.I also really focus my attention on squeezing my release and not just mashing it when the pin meets the target. This was and still is my hardest obstacle, but I moved my release much farther back in my hand and it's helped greatly. Again, great post I look forward to seeing the responses you get.
Take care,
Brian
Great post, I've been working on this veryissue this Summer and it can be frustrating. I've never heard the 1" rule but I'm learning just like you. Things I've have noticed in my routine is I shoot much better if I shoot fewer arrows (30 to 40)andreally focus on the taget instead of my pins. Yes, my pins will move around, but I seem to get much better groupsthis way. I still geta flyer once in a great while but not nearly as much if I keep shooting more arrows. I think a shorter more concentrated practice routines helps more, than a longer drawn out session.I also really focus my attention on squeezing my release and not just mashing it when the pin meets the target. This was and still is my hardest obstacle, but I moved my release much farther back in my hand and it's helped greatly. Again, great post I look forward to seeing the responses you get.
Take care,
Brian
#8
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
ORIGINAL: BPBowhunter
Matt,
Great post, I've been working on this veryissue this Summer and it can be frustrating. I've never heard the 1" rule but I'm learning just like you. Things I've have noticed in my routine is I shoot much better if I shoot fewer arrows (30 to 40)andreally focus on the taget instead of my pins. Yes, my pins will move around, but I seem to get much better groupsthis way. I still geta flyer once in a great while but not nearly as much if I keep shooting more arrows. I think a shorter more concentrated practice routines helps more, than a longer drawn out session.I also really focus my attention on squeezing my release and not just mashing it when the pin meets the target. This was and still is my hardest obstacle, but I moved my release much farther back in my hand and it's helped greatly. Again, great post I look forward to seeing the responses you get.
Take care,
Brian
Matt,
Great post, I've been working on this veryissue this Summer and it can be frustrating. I've never heard the 1" rule but I'm learning just like you. Things I've have noticed in my routine is I shoot much better if I shoot fewer arrows (30 to 40)andreally focus on the taget instead of my pins. Yes, my pins will move around, but I seem to get much better groupsthis way. I still geta flyer once in a great while but not nearly as much if I keep shooting more arrows. I think a shorter more concentrated practice routines helps more, than a longer drawn out session.I also really focus my attention on squeezing my release and not just mashing it when the pin meets the target. This was and still is my hardest obstacle, but I moved my release much farther back in my hand and it's helped greatly. Again, great post I look forward to seeing the responses you get.
Take care,
Brian
Dan
#9
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
Thanks, guys. I'm not sure quite what it is yet. I've looked at my form in pictures, in the reflection of the picture window where I shoot, etc, and honestly, I think my grip, anchor, and release arm look good, so I'm not sure it's my form. I get a suprise release about 95% of the time, and it's getting even better since I took the barrel off the trigger on my ST-3, so shot execution seems good. My biggest problem I think is to trust the float.
What's ironic is that I swithced to left handed for better eye control (because I'm left eye dominant). I wanted to be able to blur the pin completely and focus where I want to hit on the target, but after all this hard work switching, I'm still leaving the pin quite in focus, and I feel that's making me focus more on how much and where the pin is floating as opposed to where I want to hit. Maybe doing this will help (as per your suggestions here). Thanks guys.
What's ironic is that I swithced to left handed for better eye control (because I'm left eye dominant). I wanted to be able to blur the pin completely and focus where I want to hit on the target, but after all this hard work switching, I'm still leaving the pin quite in focus, and I feel that's making me focus more on how much and where the pin is floating as opposed to where I want to hit. Maybe doing this will help (as per your suggestions here). Thanks guys.
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398
RE: Maintaining minimal pin float.
I have read (and believe) that if you want to work on aiming solid, then work on aiming with no intention of shooting. I can struggle with the pin moving too much, and usually it is my "darn" brain getting in the way of making good shots. I often start shooting poorly when I am trying something like different arrows or fletch or something, and I am shooting to provide answers to a question, instead of just working on shooting. At any rate, I was having some trouble this week aiming steady, and I think it was a form of target panic rearing its ugly head. I have been working on just aiming, and letting down without shooting, and have been surprised how solidly I can aim when not worried about shooting the arrow.