cubdriver

Buckbuster' s diagram is correct according to everything I have read and tried. You should shoot the horizontal distance. I use a no-peep and it helps me maintain my form. The only thing I would add is that if angles are REALLY steep you should take into acount that shooting the horizontal distance would cause you to hit the proper spot on the hide. Since the vitals are inside the animal I believe that to hit them properly that you must aim a very small amount low when shooting uphill and a very small amount high when shooting downhill so that you are at the proper height in the center of the animal. For shooting at flat targets the horizontal distance has always worked for me.

Ossage

NP is a good product, but they are radicaly overselling it. It cures target panic! Give me a break.

No sight accessory should be relied on for form. Form is what you have when you draw the bow with your eyes closed, then open them. If everything is right them, you have good form.

The NP will definetly show you you have hand torque, but you can' t change the hand position until you let down, just twisting your hand straight is worse than useless. The NP is no different than looking at the position of your stabilizer or whatever, and seeing it pointed at your neighbour' s target.

I didn' t see on their site how it cures up/down shooting. Where is that? The basic downhill problem is that people don' t keep their T-form. There are other things, but that is the comon one. To shoot 45degrees downhill, you need to drop to a knee on the inside leg, brace on the downhill leg, and bend from the waist only. No dropping the bow arm. Not sure how the NP helps with that.

By the way, 45 degrees is very steep. In the Mont Blanc range in France, which contains many of Europe' s premier mountain climbs, the average angle of the great faces is 55 degrees. A real 45 is very steep, like being on a slide in the park, so just be sure you aren' t exagerating when you say it since it will impact your holdover.

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ChiefHeadhunter

The nopeep will verify that your eye is in the same position in relationship to the riser. That is the only way you' ll be lined up with your nopeeps adjustment. This is one of my favorite characteristics of the nopeep. It' s a full 360-degree alignment device. It' s perfectly suited for extreme angles such as those from a treestand also, not just terrain inclines and decline. A 45-degree angle to your target isn' t that much when you’re talking about hunting from treestands.

Ossage-
I would have to argue (which I honestly try to avoid at all costs ) that it doesn' t help with up and downhill shots. If the basic problem shooting up and down hill is maintaining the T form, then the NP addresses this perfectly. If you drop your arm with the nopeep, you' ll loose alignment and it will be obvious because the circle will move or disappear all together. I also don' t understand how the riser could be in continuous alignment with you but " the back of your arrow could be anywhere" . Wouldn' t that mean that you could move the apex of the string at full draw up or down or left and right without moving the riser? I guess it might be possible but that would be a serious torque problem. If your doing something like that, BAM- the nopeep will show it unless you can actually hold the riser stationary while yanking " the back of the arrow" somewhere it shouldn' t be. Can you tell I' m not buying in to that one?

Of course this is all In My Opinion [:-], but I feel the nopeep is a great tool for archers to improve their consistency with. The only real Pro I know personally (30yr Martin shooter) believes that understanding and working with the nopeep and developing and engraining consistency in my form has greatly helped me make the progress I have to this point and I have the utmost respect for his opinions and know the man well.

-Chief

Ossage

If your stab is a four incher I agree it won' t help. I shoot 3D with a 20" stab, and can easily see riser torque. I could see it by just taping and arrow to my shortie stab. I don' t have a torque problem, and I don' t have to check for it. When I had the nopeep on the riser it was one of several things that showed up my torque, so I cured it. It isn' t something I worry about when shooting, but like all fundamentals it is something you need to check on from time to time. Other things that show up torque are: Pins that sit outside the string/arrow centerline; Abnormal arm slap; left right arrows... You don' t need a NP to tell you you have torque.

With an 80% let-off bow it is less than child' s play (literally) to misalign the string. This is what you are doing when you torque the riser! With the NP, you see that the riser is torqued, and correct for the riser. With a peep, you easily see string misalignment, but may be torquing the riser. You need to correct both. If you have been shooting a peep, and torquing the riser, you will see some improvement in most cases when you put on a NP, because you are still in the groove with the string. If the string remains cool, net improvement. The string may start to develop bad habits of its own, after your groove wears off. Why would this happen? downhill shots are a perfect example of exactly where no string reference might be a problem. On the other hand, if you are old school, and shot for years by anchor point, and peerless string alignment, you may be rock solid. There are people who can hit softballs at 90 meters without release, wheels, peeps, or NPs.

I think the NP is a totally legitimate innovation, which they are badly overselling. It does what it does. The main advantages are better low light performance and no string fiddling (you don' t need to have a press to install and tune your peep). So far no world peace.

If you believe a pack of junk about the NP, then it will hurt your progress as a shooter.

ChiefHeadhunter

If you loose " string reference" on downhill shots then your form has broken down and is incorrect.

-Chief