deerhunter3735

the problem is that i set my sights with field points.now i switched to practice broadhead and i am not shooting the same.high and to the right.i am shooting the muzzy mx-4.should i reset my sight or try a different broadhead.i am a new bow hunter.and any help would be great.thanks

ijimmy

tuneing is the answer , bow arrows and archer will need tuned

TexasBowHunter

You will need to make sure your bow is tuned very well (a good bow shop can help with this). Make sure you have enough fletching(vane or feather)on your arrows for that broadhead and once you have those two things done you should have them flying good. If not then maybe you can look at some different heads, I have heard good things about muzzy's thoughI have no experience with them, they should fly for you but your bow has got to be tuned.....

SwampCollie

Muzzys are great heads, and I've thought about MX-4s myself... although in my experience they are among the harder broadheads to get consistantly great flight with. A lot of that is due to that trocar tip that sits out front. If your arrows are not perfectly square and spined well, and if your bow is not tuned correctly, then you'll get some wobble.

Are your arrows grouping consistantly, but just not in the same place, or are they just all over the map?

deerhunter3735

the bow is tuned from the local shop.and thay are grouping good but high and too the right.

SwampCollie

Alright. In that case there are a couple of things you can try. Everybody has their opinions and so forth, and these are mine based on experience and a whole lot of T & E.

You are hitting high and right... so here is what I would try first... USING FIELD POINTS!!!!!!go out in the yard and put a dot on your target up near the top... something like a bright orange sticker you can easily see. Then, run a line of masking tape straight down from that to the bottom of the target. Walk back to 20 yards and using your 20 yard pin shoot an arrow at the dot. Adjust your sights so that you can hit the dot itself... you need to be dialed in tight. Next, step back to 30 yards and shoot at the dot again USING YOUR 20 YARD PIN! Of course you are going to be low... thats the point.... next repeat at 40 yards. What you'll have is three arrows in the target at different points vertically. If your arrows are running in a diagonal line from lets say 12 o clock to 8 o clock (left), then you need to move your rest slightly to the right. When I say slightly, I mean like 1/32" at a time. Then repeat the process until all of your arrows are hitting in the straight up and down vertical line.

Here are a few pictures to help guide you:

This would be an example of needing to move your rest to the right... just move the rest in the direction you want the arrow to go. Notice I designed a target face just for this very purpose...





Once you have it dialed in right.... it should look more like this.....





This will help you establish your true center shot. Lots of shops and pros (including me.... this is what I do for a living) start off tuning a bow by using a lazer or tru-center type device to square the arrow to the string. Its a great aide and great starting point... but it ends at that.... its a starting point.

Give it a try and let me know what you've got. As to the high problem.. you'll probably have to move your nocking point a bit. I know this seems a bit like going to your elbow first to scratch your knee, but its important to make sure everything is right before we start making adjustments to the bow itself... which we will do to get the field points and arrows hitting exactly the same.... or as close as we can get them anyway.

BGfisher

The shop can only set the bow up to generally used settings. Tuning a bow is done with the owner (you) shooting the bow and making adjustments as necessary for good arrow flight. Arrows with field points/target points can shoot well and group very well even with a bow that is not well tuned. When you put broadheads on (little wings) they can and will show imperfections in the tuning because they windplane if the arrow isn't leaving the bow true.

This is all explained in Easton's Tuning Guide as is how to properly tune for good broadhead flight. You might find the guide on Easton's website or at Hunter's Friend

kingvjack

I shoot 125gr Montecs, along with the preseasons...
I shoot the preseasons leading up to bow season and my broadheads fly the exact same.
Rage mechanicals come with a practice head as well. Its no kidding though, no matter the tuning, your arrows are gonna fly differently with different heads.
Try going from a fixed blade to a mechanical sometime, or add a stopper for turkey... You'll be way off.

5 shot

Here is a link that can help you out as well.
http://www.broadheadtests.com/TUNING.html