Walk Back Tuning
05-05-2008, 06:41 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,127
Walk Back Tuning
Boy, the search feature of this site is sure disappointing. I typed in "Walk Back Tuning" and came up with no responses/matches! I have a new Vectrix XL. It is shooting the best of any bow I have ever had in my hands. At 20 yards. But as the distance increases, the groups stay tight but shift gradually to the right - at 70 yards it is almost 6" to the right. If I remember right, the arrowrest needs to be moved the direction you want the the long range group to move? Left in this case? Thanks. Roskoe.
05-05-2008, 07:41 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Walk Back Tuning
I haven't tried it yet (plan to on my 101st once I start shooting), but here's the copy of nuts & bolts post over on AT:
Walk back tuning to set the arrow rest position (centershot)
AND then,
set the sight windage (horizontal position of your pins or lens)...
Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target.
Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker.
Don't worry about where the arrow hits.
Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the same 20-yd pin setting,
fire an arrow at the sticker.
Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker.
If your arrows look like this pattern " / " or “\”,
then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch.
If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction.
If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction.
Keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows.
Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".
LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect.
But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string.
The vertical pattern of arrows may be on one side of the string.
Let’s say the arrows are say 6-inches to the left of the weighted string.
Pick a direction to adjust your sight ring windage. Adjust the sight ring windage 1/16th of an inch. Repeat the test. Fire arrows at least 3 distances, and see if the vertical pattern of arrows gets closer to the string.
If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting closer to the string, then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction. If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting farther away, then adjust in the other direction.
Eventually, you will have a vertical pattern of arrows right on top of the string.
Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect.
Walk back tuning to set the arrow rest position (centershot)
AND then,
set the sight windage (horizontal position of your pins or lens)...
Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target.
Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker.
Don't worry about where the arrow hits.
Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the same 20-yd pin setting,
fire an arrow at the sticker.
Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker.
If your arrows look like this pattern " / " or “\”,
then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch.
If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction.
If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction.
Keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows.
Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".
LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect.
But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string.
The vertical pattern of arrows may be on one side of the string.
Let’s say the arrows are say 6-inches to the left of the weighted string.
Pick a direction to adjust your sight ring windage. Adjust the sight ring windage 1/16th of an inch. Repeat the test. Fire arrows at least 3 distances, and see if the vertical pattern of arrows gets closer to the string.
If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting closer to the string, then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction. If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting farther away, then adjust in the other direction.
Eventually, you will have a vertical pattern of arrows right on top of the string.
Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect.
05-05-2008, 07:44 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Walk Back Tuning
Creep Tuning:
The Creep Tune Procedure
The Creep Tune procedure is as follows:
1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don't have put a micrometer on it; just get as
close as you can)
2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.
3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top
edge of a target face.
4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot arrow #1 at the tape.
On the next shot, creep forward to the front of the valley and shoot arrow #2 at the tape. You
make need to re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.
5. If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same
horizontal plane. (Level with the tape or on the tape)
If the "creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM
cam.
If the "creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.
Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments a time. A little twist goes a long way. You can
fine-tune your timing by repeating the test at forty yards. If you make an adjustment at this
distance do not turn your cable more that a half a turn at a time. Too much adjustment at this
distance can send an arrow over the target butt or in the dirt. When you have completed the
test, your bow will be in perfect time, and given that your other accessories are adjusted
properly, your bow is as accurate as it can possibly be.
__________________
Don't overthink it; you might outsmart yourself.
George Ryals IV
The Creep Tune Procedure
The Creep Tune procedure is as follows:
1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don't have put a micrometer on it; just get as
close as you can)
2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.
3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top
edge of a target face.
4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot arrow #1 at the tape.
On the next shot, creep forward to the front of the valley and shoot arrow #2 at the tape. You
make need to re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.
5. If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same
horizontal plane. (Level with the tape or on the tape)
If the "creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM
cam.
If the "creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.
Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments a time. A little twist goes a long way. You can
fine-tune your timing by repeating the test at forty yards. If you make an adjustment at this
distance do not turn your cable more that a half a turn at a time. Too much adjustment at this
distance can send an arrow over the target butt or in the dirt. When you have completed the
test, your bow will be in perfect time, and given that your other accessories are adjusted
properly, your bow is as accurate as it can possibly be.
__________________
Don't overthink it; you might outsmart yourself.
George Ryals IV
05-05-2008, 09:08 PM
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location:
Posts: 214
RE: Walk Back Tuning
ORIGINAL: Roskoe
Boy, the search feature of this site is sure disappointing. I typed in "Walk Back Tuning" and came up with no responses/matches! I have a new Vectrix XL. It is shooting the best of any bow I have ever had in my hands. At 20 yards. But as the distance increases, the groups stay tight but shift gradually to the right - at 70 yards it is almost 6" to the right. If I remember right, the arrowrest needs to be moved the direction you want the the long range group to move? Left in this case? Thanks. Roskoe.
Boy, the search feature of this site is sure disappointing. I typed in "Walk Back Tuning" and came up with no responses/matches! I have a new Vectrix XL. It is shooting the best of any bow I have ever had in my hands. At 20 yards. But as the distance increases, the groups stay tight but shift gradually to the right - at 70 yards it is almost 6" to the right. If I remember right, the arrowrest needs to be moved the direction you want the the long range group to move? Left in this case? Thanks. Roskoe.
05-06-2008, 07:50 PM
#7
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: RAYVILLE,LA.
Posts: 818
RE: Walk Back Tuning
Hey great post,I never understood walkback tunning until now,but does'nt arrow spine have something to do with which direction the arrow will impact the target or am I mistaken.I seem to remember reading somehwhere that an underspined arrow would hit one direction and an overspined arrow would impact in the other direction,can't remember which way each would hit.
05-06-2008, 10:01 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,127
RE: Walk Back Tuning
I have found that weak arrows will just about always hit to the right, and too stiff of an arrow will often hit to the left. This has often been readily apparentduring bare shaft tuning - ie. comparing the impact point of a fletched shaft with an otherwise identical unfletched shaft. And when the two hit the same out to 20 yards and beyond, it is a pretty confident assertion that you have the spine matched perfectly.
Well, I did some playing today. I needed to move the arrow rest about 1/32" to the left to get things to print in a straight vertical line. Haven't had a chance to see if my broadhead and field point impacts are still the same. With any luck . . . . .
Well, I did some playing today. I needed to move the arrow rest about 1/32" to the left to get things to print in a straight vertical line. Haven't had a chance to see if my broadhead and field point impacts are still the same. With any luck . . . . .
05-07-2008, 05:45 AM
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 868
RE: Walk Back Tuning
You may find that the optimum tune after walkback tuning may and probably will not have your BHs and FPs hitting the same POI. On every one of my Hoyts, I find that when my BHs pattern and fly the best, my FPs will be somewhere else and not flying nearly as well. The opposite also applies.
During the summer months when I am hunting foam, I tune for my FPs.
About 3-4 weeks before hunting season, I switch my bow over to BHs, and go through the whole tuning procedure again. Once the BHs are flying well, I shoot nothing but BHs until I am done hunting for the season.
During the summer months when I am hunting foam, I tune for my FPs.
About 3-4 weeks before hunting season, I switch my bow over to BHs, and go through the whole tuning procedure again. Once the BHs are flying well, I shoot nothing but BHs until I am done hunting for the season.
05-07-2008, 09:38 AM
#10
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Walk Back Tuning
I never cared for walkback tuning. Too many varialbes in shooting form that can give you misreading. Ive seen guys tune their bows forevery trying to fix a problem that could have been solved real easy by eliminating hand torque. Besides, todays rests are so easy to set, Ive seen little use for it. Creep tuning is ok fortiming when you first set your bow. But once you got the timing down you should never have to do it agian. That is if you mark your cam/cams with a sharpie, which I highly recommend.