walks with a gimp

The draw stop post should be used to set your let off desired. The "stops" on the Binary cams that are equipped with a draw stop post are there for syncronization and to prevent over rotation, should the draw stop post move or become lost while shooting. The stops on the module ends are also to prevent cam lock up, should the draw stop post become missing.

MeanV2

While a draw board is nice and convenient. It is far from a necessity to own a Binary cam bow. They are actually some of the easiest bows to work on I've ever owned.

In most of my experience it has been set'em, tune'em, & forget'em

Dan

walks with a gimp

I built a really nice crankboard and used it a few times. I ended up giving it to the local archery shop one day because he was asking about how hard it would be to make one.
I showed up with it shortly after that conversation and he was happy to see me I just use a large mirror to stand in front of if the wife ain't home.. I really haven't had to adjust the cable lengths on my bows very often, I don't use a peep so my bows don't get pressed at all for that reason.
I really didn't like seeing my bows in the crankboard, looked like I was torturing them

Elkcrazy8

I mounted a full length mirror next to my press bench. I find it easier to pull back and look.

I would find it hard to determine how hard you are pulling off the wall with a draw board. By me pulling it back means that I am duplicating what I do when shooting.....

davepjr71

I agree with MeanV on this one. Doing this is not a must with binary bows. I set up my bow and forget about it. I set the dots close (I've found they do not have to be exactly the same) and shoot. The whole purpose of the binary is so that you do not have to get all wrapped up in this sort of thing.

I just installed new cables and a string and I'm off by half a dot at rest. I broke 3 arrows in 1 day because of hitting the nock with another arrow and only shot 3 arrow groupsmaybe 6times that day.