loogout1

Shot a couple of arrows without fletching into my bag target in my basement at 4-7 yards. All resulted in my arrow ending up nock right in the target. Whats the deal?? Any ideas?

SwampCollie

A bag target is a rather poor medium to deduct any conclusions from. I've seen arrows stick all sorts of directions in them... bare or not... bow tuned or not.

Assuming that the bag target isn't lying to you, you may be getting a weak arrow reaction. Could be a number of things....

loogout1

I'll have to bring my reinhart inside and take some shots. By weak arrow reaction you mean spine is too lite? I'm shooting a 349/390 ACC at 27.5" out of a allegiance at 70lbs. and 27" draw.

TFOX

That is one reason I just use bare shafts in paper at close distances.I can check my spine without worry of the target interfeering with the results and I can start my tune without worrying if fletching contact is causing an issue and giving me false readings.

I explain in the thread pasted at the top.

BGfisher

3-49 does sound a bit light for that length and draw weight. Tell ya what. Take a turn off the limbs and see what happens. By using limb bolts it's so much easier than dicking around with differrent arrows or points and such. I'll bet those shafts will work just fine at 65#.

TFOX has a good idea there. Shooting bare shaft through paper tell you the same thing without having a target affect the angle of the arrow.

loogout1

So what you're saying is I should shoot thru paper at a close distance(4-5 yards) and see what I got?

bigcountry

I am not a fan of shooting close at a target. I like to see my POI compared to fletched arrows. And I start at 20 yards and move out to 40 when I am done. And if you can get a bare shaft to fly good at 40 yards, that bow is doing well. You can sometimes move the rest to compensate.

SwampCollie

In that case then yeah you are definately too weak in spine.

I shot 349s out of my Iron Mace (same cam system... just differnt name) and I shoot 63#s but 29" arrows and I got a weak spine reaction myself. If they are weak at 63#, 1.5" inches less and 7 more #s sure ain't gonna make 'em any stiffer. Personally I knew I was right on the bubble when I bought the raw shafts.... just wanted a bit lighter arrow since the ACCs are heavy by modern standards.... That was about a $150 lesson.

Parkerbuckhunter

The question i am wondering is does the tip of the arrow hit in the same spot as the fletched shafts. Just because the nock end is sticking in the target at an angle ie (/)(\) and the point is in the same spot doesnt mean your arrow is too weak. If your bare shaft pointsare hitting 5 inches to the right or leftof your fletched shafts then you have a spine issue. I asked a similar question about a week ago. One thing i didn't realize, whether it makes a difference or not, is that according to easton guide bareshaft tuning is more geared at finger shooters than release shooters. It is a good indicator for nock travel but i am not sure if it is as consistent at telling you if your spine is adequate. Like the others said shoot a bareshaft through paper to make sure you have good arrow flight then go to walkback and group tuning. For quick setups I almost prefer the short distance tuning procedure.

Roskoe

I have only tried this on a couple of bows; but have been able to get the bare arrow shaft to travel straight, and hit the target in the same spot as the fletched shaft out to 30 yards -with the Easton Axis arrows. Like you hardly needed fletching, except for broadheads.

I played around with some 4000 series Blackhawk Vapors awhile back and, although they shot well with fletching, always showed a stiff spine reaction with the bare shaft. In this instance, the nock was about online with the point of aim and the point was off to the left about 4" at 20 yards. And at 61 lbs. and with a 28" arrow, I very well may have been a little stiff. I have heard these 4000 Vapors are a little stiffer than an Easton 400 - plus the I cut the Easton's an inch longer.

In fact, I arrived at the 29" length on the Easton 400 shaft by starting out shooting a full length shaft - and cutting an inch at a time off until the bare shaft shot with the fletched shaft. The Vapors were already cut to 28", so no opportunity for this type of tuning.