Parkerbuckhunter

I never really have performed this tuning method before the other night. Curiosity got the best of me. Looking for the holy grail of bow setups i guess. I read an article on creep tuning and found out my bow was one twist off on the cables. Cant believe the difference after finishing the creep tune. This brings me to my question on bare shaft tuning. My unfletched arrows hit in the same group as my fletched arrows but even though the point of the unflethced arrow is in the same hole as the flecthed, the unfletched arrow leans in this direction ( / ) nock to the right. It is not at a 90 degree angle like the fletched arrows. Is this normal with the lean beings theris no fletching to straighten arrow or is the arrow weak or stiff? I cant seem to find any info or pics to answer my question so I figured I would ask the experts.

Kanga

The main aim at bare shafting is to get them to group with your fletched arrows which means the spine is right.

So if the POI is in the same group then nothing to worry about.

The (/) is just the back of the arrow kicking when it inpacts the target.

Now if they are say 6" to the left or right then you have a spine problem.

Parkerbuckhunter

Well that makes me feel better. Thanks for the response. I must be in the money with my bow setup than.

Kanga

Well if thats the case then I will put the bill in the mail

Paul L Mohr

When bare shaft tuning, especially with a release (it's really meant for finger shooters) have no concern with how the arrow is in the target. Most targets do not have a consistant enough medium to judge it anyway. The only I concern myself with is WHERE the arrow impacts, not how it impacts. I'm not overly concerned with how it flies either, as long is it hits the mark. An arrow with no fletchings has a different dynamic than one with does, don't expect them to react the same way.

When it comes off wrong you will know it, it will be waaay to one side or tail high when it is in the air. If you have decent follow through you will be able to see it whip when it comes out of bow.

I also like to take a fletched arrow and just shave the fin part off the fletching leaving the base and the glue. This lets me keep most or nearly all of the weight and FOC depending on the type of fletchings you use.

Sounds like your good to go to me.

Paul

MGH_PA

Paul, I was reading up a little on bareshaft tuning, and have heard two sides (opinions) on the subject matter. One, like you, states it's not entirely necessary for release shooters, while the others say it is a great way to check for spine. I noticed while reading through the easton guide, the bareshaft tuning is noted only for release shooters and seems to pertain to nock point and rest adjustments. Can these nock point/rest adjustments be done with group/walkback tuning with a compound then instead of bareshaft? Or is there another way? I get the feeling some archers believe bareshaft gives the archer PRECISE tuning capabilities that walk-back/group/french tuning cannot. Thoughts?

bigcountry

I myself find bare shaft tuning the best, quickest, and most sensitive way to tune. And totally disagree with the statement that its meant for finger shooters only. You move back to 40 yards and you will find out quick, you do care how that arrow is coming out.

Paul L Mohr

Are you sure you read the easton tuning guide right? It's been while since I read it but I was under the impression it said that bare shaft tuning was for finger shooters and paper tuning was for release aid shooters.

As a general rule most will say bare shaft tuning is more associated with finger shooters.

And I didn't mean to imply that I don't think it's meant foror doesn'twork for release aid shooters. I use it quite often, it's my favorite method of tuning. I personally don't bother with paper tuning myself.

I don't think walk back or group tuning is going to tell you the same thing bare shaft tuning will tell you. And it certainly won't tell you as fast. Target arrows with adequate fletching are pretty darn forgiving. Tuning a bow with no fletchings on it insuresyou that the arrow is leaving the bow in the best way it can. I mean if you can group arrows at 30 yards with no fletchings on them I would say it's pretty darn to close to where it needs be. Imagine how well it will be when you use fletched arrows.

Bare shaft tuning helps you adjust your rest position, nock point and adjust your bow and arrow to the correct spine. Letting the arrow leave the bow as straight as it can on the way to the target.

Walk back and group tuning help fine tune the bow and sights to your shooting style and form. They are the last step in tuning a bow.

The rub with using bare shaft tuning with a release is there are no rules to it. When finger shooting you know that if you get "X" result you use a specific method to correct it or it means you are either weak or stiff on spine. When using a release it really isn't that defined or cut and dry. Sometimes you need to to the opposite to get it to work. And if nothing works you are usually off on spine. A little bit of playing can tell you which way you are off.

Something to consider is that with any kind of tuning form is VERY important. If you can't shoot consistently from one shot to the next you will pull your hair out trying to get it right. You can't tune any better than you can shoot. If you shoot 4 inch groups at 20 yards with field points don't expect 5 hours worth of frustrating nerve wracking tuning to magically make your bow shoot the nocks off your buddies arrows. It just ain't gonna happen.

Paul

bigcountry

I am not very concerned what the easton tuning guide says. I just know what works and doesn't for me. Your results from your experiementation may be totally different. If it hasn't worked for you, I don't blame you for not trying it.

I just know I have had problems paper tuning, and bare shaft tuned with release, and come back the paper, and perfect bullet holes. I wasn't a believer at first, until this happened 5 or 6 times.

bigcountry

Oops. sorry paul, I thought you were referring to me.