TFOX

I am actually considering building a drawing machine that will be able to shoot the bow as well and a simple adjustment would allow you to check the nock travel as well.

I would just have a field day getting everything setup at full draw as it should be.

I just can't justify the cost of a hooter shooter when they really are simple to build,my problem is that darn tuit again.

Rick James

TFOX, one of the locals here built a hooter shooter that works really well. Next time I'm there I'll post pics. We use it to tune arrows for field archery and FITA.

That first arrow at 90 meters is always fun to watch.....lol. All you can do it line it up as best as possible, and watch a $40 X10 with tungsten point let loose and hope it hits the butt somewhere......[8D]

MGH_PA

Ok, a question for Matt, Tfox, and anyone else with information in this area. I've heard mention to creep tuning several times, but nothing in detail on what it truly is (well I think it's shooting from the front of the valley as opposed to the back/wall, correct?). How do you do it, and what does it consist of. The whole purpose of me considering the draw board, is because I'm starting to take a serious interest in bow tuning, and have been reading up on a lot of cam tuning/draw stop synch tuning methods, but I'm still a bit confused (ok, a lot confused). Matt, you mention you set up timing by eye best as possible, what are you looking for? The points on the cams from the manufacturer? The relation of the draw stops and the position of the cables top and bottom? Just kind curious, because I keep getting conflicting reports on cam/draw stop synch vs. cam timing and how to effectively do each.

I'm reading over the binary cam tuning thread on AT, where they mention NOT using the dots on the cams for synch left by the manufacturer due to unequal forces being applied to the top and bottom (the whole point of setting tiller)...so is cam synch simple set once you set tiller, and thus not needed? I'm in over my head[&:]

TFOX

With tungsten points those arrows are getting over 40 a piece,well over.[:-]

That is the biggest advantage of a shooting machine but they are the cats meow for creep tuning as well.



M hensler,I have a Hoyt that was creep tuned on a hooter shooter and my cables are very close to middle of my holes in the cams,be careful what you read on that other site.[8D]

AND,my bow tuned better than 99% of the bows that have ever been on the machine and this machine has had bows on it that have set WORLD records.

Some good info but some not so good as well over there.


EDIT,The holes are not used to SET the timing,that is set by having the cam rollover hitting the flat portion of the cam module at the same time at full draw.The holes are just for reference later.

The whole purpose of creep tuning is to set the cams to be forgiving to creeping which is something that most archers will do from time to time.Basically set the cam timing up so that it shoots the same from the front of the valley as it does hard off the wall.


It is just a matter of twisting the cables to set the timing so it is hitting the same,you do it by shooting off the front and twisting the cables a 1/2 turn at a time and check where you hit and repeat untill it is hitting the same.

Sorry my answer is so vague,I am pressed for time.There is a really good article on www.bowmanbows.com if you can get it to come up,I was having trouble.

nodog

Might have to make one but for now I just hook it up to a scale and pull down. I can see what's going on.

badger109

If you have a hoyt, reflex, or any other hybrid cam bow check out this thread:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391

wihunter402

Here isa picture of my board.

wihunter402

Here is a picture of the bottom to show how I anchored the pipe. You can see from both pictures that I have the base on top and bottom. There is no way that is going to pull out.

MeanV2

I find I use mine more every year

Dan