TFOX

Ok,this one I just thought was cool.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vyUfKkrkRI

davepjr71

Cool videos. If I was mistaken about the spine then I stand corrected.


I just bought a Sony camcorder that can do 240 fps. I'm interested in watching what happens with my QAD to see if hit hops back up at alland also the arrow itself. If you'd like I can post the video.

If I were shooting competition I'd want the rest to be as simple as possible. Imagine a fall away malfunctioning in a big tourney.

TFOX

IMO,nowadays I feel that is the MAIN reason the pros choose them BUT,they were using the spring steel before fallaways were popular.


There are some 3-ders using light spined arrows,even some too light and all I have mentioned are adavantages to them but the ones winning,are within the spine rating for their bows(for the most part imo).You can just use alighter spined arrow with glue in tips and no broadheads.


Another piece of information.

An arrow SHOULD vibrate all the way to the target,that vibration is STABILTY in flight,when that vibration is lost,the stabiltity starts to diminish.This is why I refer to an arrow as kinda like a tuning fork.

This is 1 reason you see such a wide range of spines for LONG range target shooters,perfectly spined arrow have that vibration.Another reason is for a wide spine selection is for finger shooters,spine is absolutely CRUCIAL when shooting fingers at long distances.

TFOX

I shot with a pro once in a pro am that was using a Muzzy with a spring steel mounted to the drop arm,He was sponsored by Muzzy but knows and understands the advantages of the spring steel.

davepjr71

Spring steel has been around for as long as I can remember. Simple, sturdy, and reliable. Why mess with something that works. My problem is that I'm a tinkerer. Nothing is ever good enough.

Reliability is the one thing I worry about with a drop away. I figure that my QAD is going to get replaced either before or after this hunting season. If I have any worries before the season it's gone. If it keeps working as great as it does now then I won't worry about it. Two yearsof moderate to heavy shooting is enoughin myeyes. Plus, there are so many rests out there to look at and try.

You can definitely get away with an underspined arrow with a field tip. I've shot 5575's out of my bow at the range that are no where near spined properly but they fly pretty good. I'd never use that arrow for hunting though.

davepjr71

Now that's funny.

Reminds me of stories of golfers using Titleist clubs with another manufacturer's logo on it because the player was sponsered by the other manufacturer. However, the manufacturer's equipment was inferior so the guy paid someone to put the logo on.

TFOX

IMO,there are some really simple fallaway designs,even more simple than some prong rest.Look at a Trophy Taker,how much more simple can you get?

That is a great fallaway imo,just have to make sure the timing is set right and the rest doesn't bounce back up and make contact.

I had one of the more complicated designs,Ultimate fallaway by vital bow gear and it worked great for a couple years but it has some forgiveness issues and I just wore it out and it wouldn't tune anymore.

I have a limbsaver rest now and it is one of the best rest from a working standpoint and simplicity BUT it isn't a very tunable rest from the micro tuning side of things but the smoothness of this rest is second to none.It is just a glorified Trophy Taker.

Paul L Mohr

The simple truth is drop a ways are not more accurate. All they do is help reduce fletch contact. Accuracy is purely a form and set up thing. You could shoot just as well with a flipper rest as you could with a 100 dollar drop a way if you used feathers and had good form.

And drop a ways can add their own unique set of problems as well.

And some target archers do shoot arrows with less spine, they even use different calculations for target arrows than they do hunting arrows. This is why in many programs and charts you have the option of choosing hunting or target applications. In all honesty for indoor spots it really doesn't make a huge deal in my opinion. Some of the best scores ever shot in Vegas were shot with extremely out of tune bows and arrows that were poorly matched by todays standards. I have also seen some target archers shoot with very stiff arrows in order to use larger diameter arrows for line cutting ability. In my opinion you would be better served worrying about how GOOD your arrows are than if they are the perfect spine. Consistency is what matters, they can be a bit light or a bit stiff as long as they are consistent from arrow to arrow. I see a lot of guys shoot with fancy bows, expensive sights and high tech rests, then they nock a 70 dollar per dozen carbon arrow that they never even spin or weight tested. They probably would have been better off spending twice as much on quality hand sorted arrows and less on equipment.

A lot of people try to "buy" there way into winning or tune themselves into shooting better when the honest to God truth is the guys that are actually winning could do it with just about any equipment as long as it was consistent. The most expensive up to date equipment and hours upon hours of tuning are not going to help you if in the end you still suck. I have talked to a few top archers, we even have a local shop owner that used to be on the Olympic archery team. When you start talking about all the technical stuff we talk about on here they either look at you like they don't know what you are talking about or their eyes glaze over and they lose interest fast. Their response usually is that they simply don't worry about it. They are much more worried about the mental game and shot execution.

Now when you screw a broad head on the end of your arrow that is when tuning and other things become really important. You have added a whole new dynamic to the system that you need to counter act and account for.

Something to keep in mind with rests is that a properly tuned drop a way will drop right before the fletching gets to it, not as you release the arrow. And with a properly tuned prong rest the spring should be light enough to barely support the arrow at full draw. This way it actually drops out of way as the arrow leaves and can flex with the shaft as it leaves. Most have the spring tension set way too stiff on their prong rests which is why they have problems. And the spring steel launchers just add another cushion on top of that. However you have to pick the correct blade for it to work correctly.

Any rest can be accurate if it is set up correctly and you can get good fletching clearance. I actually prefer the Bodoodle rests and a feather fletch. Then again I still shoot aluminum arrows.

My opinions anyway.

Paul

davepjr71

This is possibly the best statement in apost I've ever read on here. My first bow was a $150 Whitetail Legend with a single arm and cushion plunger rest and a $10 sight along with game getter arrows. I shot that bow every day after school and on weekends. At 20 yds I could constantly hit a 1/4" piece of a playing card. My father's best friend had the best of everything. Top dollar bow , rest, sight and arrows and he had trouble hitting a pie plate at 30 yds. Why, he rarely ever shot.

Now, I own a $1,000 set-up and am no where near as good a shot as I used to be because I do not practice that much and took 6 yrs off of archery. At the end of last year I started to see some signs of getting back into form through many hours of practice and fixing some bad form issues that came about from not shooting in a while.

Practice, practice and more practice is the only way to be a good archer.

It's like buying a $1000 set of golf clubs and thinking you will play like Phil Mickelson. You didn't play like him with the $200 so why think you will with the more expensive set.