my thread brings up another issue...
#11
RE: my thread brings up another issue...
Laser is for initial setup. You may shoot perfect bullet holes right off the bat but probably not.
I would not do the paper tuning with that guy. If he said he doesn't think it is needed, he doesn't want to be bothered. Paper tuning can take a long time if you don't know what you are doing and you will notwant to be rushed.
I would not do the paper tuning with that guy. If he said he doesn't think it is needed, he doesn't want to be bothered. Paper tuning can take a long time if you don't know what you are doing and you will notwant to be rushed.
#12
RE: my thread brings up another issue...
That is what I do if I am making a new arrow. With my current bow I already had a certain type of arrow made so, when paper tuning, I turned down the draw weight until I got bullet holes. Then, when bareshaft tuning, I tweaked the draw weight a little more.
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: my thread brings up another issue...
A laser is not going to tell you how the bow reacts to you while you are shooting it. That is the whole purpose of tuning a bow. We are tuning the bow to how we shoot, other wise we wouldn't need to tune it. Just get good arrows and shoot it. If we all shot like a machine we wouldn't even need to tune a bow, the arrows would all go in the same place anyway.
Using a laser is great for initial set up I guess if you want to verify that everything is square BEFORE you start tuning, however I don't feel it's a substitute for tuning. I normally just eyeball everything since I know I'm going to end up adjusting it anyway.
I don't really paper tune that often though, I just skip it and go right to group or bare shaft tuning or broad head tuning if that is my goal.
Paper tuning can be pretty deceiving if you don't know what to look for. Form or release problems can show up as tuning issues and you will pull your hair out adjusting things when in the end your grip just wasn't consistent or something like that.
This is true of any tuning though. Always remember, you can't tune any better than you can shoot. If you shoot 5 inch groups at 20 yards don't expect to tune your bow and be breaking nocks off. Chances are it just isn't going to happen.
My opinion anyway.
Paul
Using a laser is great for initial set up I guess if you want to verify that everything is square BEFORE you start tuning, however I don't feel it's a substitute for tuning. I normally just eyeball everything since I know I'm going to end up adjusting it anyway.
I don't really paper tune that often though, I just skip it and go right to group or bare shaft tuning or broad head tuning if that is my goal.
Paper tuning can be pretty deceiving if you don't know what to look for. Form or release problems can show up as tuning issues and you will pull your hair out adjusting things when in the end your grip just wasn't consistent or something like that.
This is true of any tuning though. Always remember, you can't tune any better than you can shoot. If you shoot 5 inch groups at 20 yards don't expect to tune your bow and be breaking nocks off. Chances are it just isn't going to happen.
My opinion anyway.
Paul
#14
RE: my thread brings up another issue...
A laser is not going to tell you how the bow reacts to you while you are shooting it.