What gives with my arrow flight?
#31
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188
RE: What gives with my arrow flight?
1/4" is a lot. However, Swamp was asking about his bow at 29.5". Not 29.75, Not 31.25". I'm simply stating that the info i gave is for the info he gave.
You guys really need to be a little more mature. [:'(]
You guys really need to be a little more mature. [:'(]
#32
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: What gives with my arrow flight?
I have dipped and crested my FMJs, and fletched them with blazers. What I don't get is why they "seemed" to be flying great before, but now are noticably jacked up.
Also, how were your arrows fletched before?
If those are the only two things that have changed about your setup, and everything was fine before you made those changes, then those are the only two things that really need to be examined.
#33
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 584
RE: What gives with my arrow flight?
I've seen this when the fletchings come loose. The arrows normally shoot fine but all of sudden they are going all over the place when one vane is not completely tight to the shaft.
I just wonder if this what's changing the POI. for him?
I just wonder if this what's changing the POI. for him?
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: What gives with my arrow flight?
ORIGINAL: Arthur P
IMO, the dip and crest added enough weight to screw up your FOC. You're probably under 8% with tips that light, and I think you're seeing more of a lack of stability than spine problems. You've backed off the draw weight from 64# to 60#. That should be enough to try something. Stick some 100 gn points on 'em and see if getting your FOC back over 9% will straighten out your arrow flight.
Also, how were your arrows fletched before?
If those are the only two things that have changed about your setup, and everything was fine before you made those changes, then those are the only two things that really need to be examined.
I have dipped and crested my FMJs, and fletched them with blazers. What I don't get is why they "seemed" to be flying great before, but now are noticably jacked up.
Also, how were your arrows fletched before?
If those are the only two things that have changed about your setup, and everything was fine before you made those changes, then those are the only two things that really need to be examined.
#35
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: What gives with my arrow flight?
There's no hard and fast answer to that, bigcountry. Depends on what kind of paint or lacquer you use, length of the dip, how many coats you do and how thick you make them. It can turn into significant weight. I've seen as little as 10 grains and as much as 45 grains.
I don't fool with dipping and cresting much either. It looks nice and everything, but I don't want any more weight on the tail end of the arrow than I absolutely have to have.
I don't fool with dipping and cresting much either. It looks nice and everything, but I don't want any more weight on the tail end of the arrow than I absolutely have to have.
#37
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
RE: What gives with my arrow flight? UPDATE
Hey everyone I really appreciate all the thoughts. I appologise for not being around to respond to some of the questions you all posed for me. I was (go figure) hunting. I let a few smallish and one almost shooter deer go, as well as a host of does, as I still have some meat left over from last year, and I shot a fawn (can you say veal) back in mid October.
Anyway... I have no clue what some of y'all are talking about with relation to the OT2 program itself. I can however, tell you this much in part from experience and the rest from observation. My draw length itself, as it pertains to me, mesures out at anywhere between 29.25 and 29.5 inches. Depending on who is holding the tape. The Iron Mace I shoot is a long draw model, set at 29.5". That said, I, like gibblet, have seen bows that were supposed to be 28" (for example) end up being 27 and on other bows 29. They can and do vary greatly. If anyone knows where the industry standard for actual draw lenth on a bow is.. please let me know. I have heard the front of the riser, the low point of the grip, the center of berger button hole and that there isn't one and most makers just try and come close to what they think should fit someone with X length.
I whacked the fletchings off one of my FMJ 400s and one of the ACC 3-49s. Again, I can't shorten them anymore than they are. I shot them bareshaft, and both (at 15 yards) stuck in to the bail nock left of point of impact. To me, thats weak spine. I'm shooting a Schaffer rest, as I mentioned earlier, and haven't noticed the first bit of clearence problem with it since I've had it. Honestly, I think it may well have just been me. I still do think the arrows are a bit weak spined. But the wiggle has seemed to have gotten better. I reset my nock point, tied on a new loop, recentered and just basically started over. I still a weak reaction with a bare shaft, but the wiggle with a fletched arrow has drasically deminished. Who knows... barometric pressure or some sh*t?....?...?.... No telling. Odd think though, my arrows are square, and spin test as such. My fieldpoints, after tuning (french/walkback) with broadheads and sighting in and all, are a good 2" left of my point of aim and point of impact with broadheads. Again, I'm shooting Montecs, and I know for a 100% fact that no matter what head you shoot, it will NEVER be EXACTLY the same as field points, but 2" is more than it was. Infact, I couldn't hardly notice before.. maybe an inch, but small enough for me not to notice... but its noticable a beer can diameter to the left now. I'm almost losing confidence in myself and the equipment. Its frustrating as all hell.
Anyway... I have no clue what some of y'all are talking about with relation to the OT2 program itself. I can however, tell you this much in part from experience and the rest from observation. My draw length itself, as it pertains to me, mesures out at anywhere between 29.25 and 29.5 inches. Depending on who is holding the tape. The Iron Mace I shoot is a long draw model, set at 29.5". That said, I, like gibblet, have seen bows that were supposed to be 28" (for example) end up being 27 and on other bows 29. They can and do vary greatly. If anyone knows where the industry standard for actual draw lenth on a bow is.. please let me know. I have heard the front of the riser, the low point of the grip, the center of berger button hole and that there isn't one and most makers just try and come close to what they think should fit someone with X length.
I whacked the fletchings off one of my FMJ 400s and one of the ACC 3-49s. Again, I can't shorten them anymore than they are. I shot them bareshaft, and both (at 15 yards) stuck in to the bail nock left of point of impact. To me, thats weak spine. I'm shooting a Schaffer rest, as I mentioned earlier, and haven't noticed the first bit of clearence problem with it since I've had it. Honestly, I think it may well have just been me. I still do think the arrows are a bit weak spined. But the wiggle has seemed to have gotten better. I reset my nock point, tied on a new loop, recentered and just basically started over. I still a weak reaction with a bare shaft, but the wiggle with a fletched arrow has drasically deminished. Who knows... barometric pressure or some sh*t?....?...?.... No telling. Odd think though, my arrows are square, and spin test as such. My fieldpoints, after tuning (french/walkback) with broadheads and sighting in and all, are a good 2" left of my point of aim and point of impact with broadheads. Again, I'm shooting Montecs, and I know for a 100% fact that no matter what head you shoot, it will NEVER be EXACTLY the same as field points, but 2" is more than it was. Infact, I couldn't hardly notice before.. maybe an inch, but small enough for me not to notice... but its noticable a beer can diameter to the left now. I'm almost losing confidence in myself and the equipment. Its frustrating as all hell.
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: What gives with my arrow flight? UPDATE
They (some proshops) claim they cheat on AMO Draw for speed.
It definately sounds like a weak spine. And if you taking a tape and measureing from the string to the handle, then this would make sense. Sounds like you definately got to go stiffer. It sucks buying new arrows, I know. You know you could also get a new rest like theQAD, and cut your arrows. You can move that and others rests back pretty far. Not sure if you like your current rest.
Hope hunting goes better. I am off for the next 9 days for bow hunting. Hope I things right.
It definately sounds like a weak spine. And if you taking a tape and measureing from the string to the handle, then this would make sense. Sounds like you definately got to go stiffer. It sucks buying new arrows, I know. You know you could also get a new rest like theQAD, and cut your arrows. You can move that and others rests back pretty far. Not sure if you like your current rest.
Hope hunting goes better. I am off for the next 9 days for bow hunting. Hope I things right.
#40
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188
RE: What gives with my arrow flight? UPDATE
Swamp,
If the bow is set at 29.5" then that is the DL. Yes, it can be a little off but will not be that far off. In another post I stated that the DL is measured from the nock at full draw to where your hand touches the bow grip curve+1.75"
Are you saying your BH's are 2" right of your FP's? If so, move your rest a very small amount(1/32") left and see what happens. My BH's hit where my FP's do with Wac'em Exits and the QAD rest.As I've stated before, I had the same problem and it was the rest that was the problem. Small wiggle with fletched arrows abd BH's off. I also had the arrows sticking in nock left. Take it for what it's worth.
If the bow is set at 29.5" then that is the DL. Yes, it can be a little off but will not be that far off. In another post I stated that the DL is measured from the nock at full draw to where your hand touches the bow grip curve+1.75"
Are you saying your BH's are 2" right of your FP's? If so, move your rest a very small amount(1/32") left and see what happens. My BH's hit where my FP's do with Wac'em Exits and the QAD rest.As I've stated before, I had the same problem and it was the rest that was the problem. Small wiggle with fletched arrows abd BH's off. I also had the arrows sticking in nock left. Take it for what it's worth.