Paper tune picture
08-24-2007, 04:25 AM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
RE: Paper tune picture
A paper check is best done after you walk-back tune and bareshaft test. Once your bow's rest and nock point are tuned to it's best position, you use paper to test whether you are torquing and whether spine is acceptable. Using paper to tune a bow that will be shooting broadheads is a big mistake in my opinion.
08-24-2007, 03:11 PM
#12
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 415
RE: Paper tune picture
Paper tuning is just the starting point. Following with group tuning and walk back tuning for broadheads. Go to the easton site and download the tuning guide.
Punching a perfect bullet hole is over rated. Especially when you group tune to bring your broadheads together with field points. If, you were to check to see if your bullet hole still exists after group and walk back tuning, you'd scratch your head and say it just can't be. More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
I've tuned my bows for nearly 25 years.
It wasn't until acquiring my most recent bow, Hoyt Vulcan, that I decided to try what several people had told me. Now I'm from the old school... I used a laser to centershot the rest. I did that, as well leveled my arrow to exact 90 degrees. (of course I'm thinking the whole time...this ain't all it's hyped up to be) Boy, was I wrong.
I have NEVER in nearly 25 years, seen results like this.
Arrow flight with fp's was as close to perfect as I've seen. Broadheads hit exactly with the fp's at 20,30,and 40 yards. I don't have a facility to shoot past 40 yds close to home. However, I don't plan to shoot even close to 40 yds as I live in Ohio and hunt dense hardwoods.
Now I'll say that I did replace the stock Fuse sting/cables with WC and spent the necessary time making sure my cams were in sync and drawstop timing was perfect. I had some cam lean and remedied that. I do all of my own mechanic work on my bows.
I was fully ready to begin my normal routine of group and walk back tuning today. I'm still in awe that this bow set up as quickly and easily as it did.
Not saying that the laser is a cure all. It sure as heck put me one heck of a lot closer in the beginning instead of trying to work toward a true centershot. To be perfectly honest, I didn't have to move a thing. (now that worries me, as I'm a tinkerer)
However, when your bow is tweaked to the hilt and everything is doing what it's supposed to, you'll appreciate how good a well tuned bow performs.
Honestly, I haven't even put an arrow through paper. At this juncture in time, there's really no need to. I'd hate to see the tear. It'll just eat at me and tempt me to fiddle around when I shouldn't. I hate temptation![:@]
Paper tuning only tells you that your nock set and rest are in the proper position to begin tuning. If you have means to a laser, use it. I dare ya'!
An old fart like me learned something new...Still scratchin' my head....................
Punching a perfect bullet hole is over rated. Especially when you group tune to bring your broadheads together with field points. If, you were to check to see if your bullet hole still exists after group and walk back tuning, you'd scratch your head and say it just can't be. More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
I've tuned my bows for nearly 25 years.
It wasn't until acquiring my most recent bow, Hoyt Vulcan, that I decided to try what several people had told me. Now I'm from the old school... I used a laser to centershot the rest. I did that, as well leveled my arrow to exact 90 degrees. (of course I'm thinking the whole time...this ain't all it's hyped up to be) Boy, was I wrong.
I have NEVER in nearly 25 years, seen results like this.
Arrow flight with fp's was as close to perfect as I've seen. Broadheads hit exactly with the fp's at 20,30,and 40 yards. I don't have a facility to shoot past 40 yds close to home. However, I don't plan to shoot even close to 40 yds as I live in Ohio and hunt dense hardwoods.
Now I'll say that I did replace the stock Fuse sting/cables with WC and spent the necessary time making sure my cams were in sync and drawstop timing was perfect. I had some cam lean and remedied that. I do all of my own mechanic work on my bows.
I was fully ready to begin my normal routine of group and walk back tuning today. I'm still in awe that this bow set up as quickly and easily as it did.
Not saying that the laser is a cure all. It sure as heck put me one heck of a lot closer in the beginning instead of trying to work toward a true centershot. To be perfectly honest, I didn't have to move a thing. (now that worries me, as I'm a tinkerer)
However, when your bow is tweaked to the hilt and everything is doing what it's supposed to, you'll appreciate how good a well tuned bow performs.
Honestly, I haven't even put an arrow through paper. At this juncture in time, there's really no need to. I'd hate to see the tear. It'll just eat at me and tempt me to fiddle around when I shouldn't. I hate temptation![:@]
Paper tuning only tells you that your nock set and rest are in the proper position to begin tuning. If you have means to a laser, use it. I dare ya'!
An old fart like me learned something new...Still scratchin' my head....................
08-24-2007, 03:41 PM
#13
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
RE: Paper tune picture
Lasers work only if the centershot of the bow is square with the riser that the lazer is set off of.The eze eye is setup with the riser and the riser is irrelevant to the path of the string and cams.
Lazers are usefull tools but only if the person using it is aware of how to properly use them and know the do's and don'ts.Different lazers are better than others at different jobs as well.
Maybe Hoyt has addressed the issue of the risers not being square/parralel with centershot because they used to be way out.
I agree with walk back and group tuning but a perfect bullet hole can be achieved after tuning the bow with those methods if the spine is dead on and the person shooting the bow has great form and doesn't torque the bow.
Check out the link I posted,I have done it,many times over.
Lazers are usefull tools but only if the person using it is aware of how to properly use them and know the do's and don'ts.Different lazers are better than others at different jobs as well.
Maybe Hoyt has addressed the issue of the risers not being square/parralel with centershot because they used to be way out.
I agree with walk back and group tuning but a perfect bullet hole can be achieved after tuning the bow with those methods if the spine is dead on and the person shooting the bow has great form and doesn't torque the bow.
Check out the link I posted,I have done it,many times over.
08-24-2007, 03:43 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Paper tune picture
ORIGINAL: TradTech
More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
I have seen a bunch of people (even bass protuners) say this and you can clearly see on thier cock vane that they have clearance issues.
08-24-2007, 06:19 PM
#15
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 415
RE: Paper tune picture
I was speaking of walk back tuning for broadheads. Not specificly for field points. Depending on the variance/tollerance, which there is for the average archer who tunes their bow the best they can, the bullet hole is not apparant as spine, foc, both come into play. Still allowing for adequate broadhead flight performance.
Most notebably is that for a right hand archer, the nock right/high tear is evident when the same arrow is shot through paper after group tuning and acceptable for performance.
While group tuning a bow without the aid of the laser for centershot, utilizing only the method of paper tuning "before" group tuning, and checking through paper after group tuning the norm is the nock right/high tear.
Most notebably is that for a right hand archer, the nock right/high tear is evident when the same arrow is shot through paper after group tuning and acceptable for performance.
While group tuning a bow without the aid of the laser for centershot, utilizing only the method of paper tuning "before" group tuning, and checking through paper after group tuning the norm is the nock right/high tear.
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
Nope, not unless you have clearance problems. If you are shooting bullet holes thru paper, and then walk back or whatever, a properly setup combow, the holes shouldn't change at all.
I have seen a bunch of people (even bass protuners) say this and you can clearly see on thier cock vane that they have clearance issues.
ORIGINAL: TradTech
More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
More than likely, your perfect bullet hole you had prior to group/walkback tuning will be gone.
I have seen a bunch of people (even bass protuners) say this and you can clearly see on thier cock vane that they have clearance issues.
08-24-2007, 07:38 PM
#16
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
RE: Paper tune picture
The problem is when relying on a laser,you are at the mercy of it.Regardless of the info it feeds you.
Meaning you can get good info or you can get bad info.
If the riser and the centershot are not on the same plane,you receive bad info.Then the whole process is a horrible nightmare.Had to help a few that run into this problem when someone used a laser and didn't realize they don't work on all bows.
I don't discount lasers because I have had them used on my bow but only at full draw on a shooting machine to set camalignment.You can also use them off the cams on some bowsto set centershot but you can't use them on all bows off the riser.
You do provide some good info,I am not trying to give you a hard time.
I can walk back tune and then group tune with field points and my broadheads and paper are dead on.Then again,you are right,the average person doesn't know how to accomplish this.
That is why I made my post with the link,educate 1 at a time.
Meaning you can get good info or you can get bad info.
If the riser and the centershot are not on the same plane,you receive bad info.Then the whole process is a horrible nightmare.Had to help a few that run into this problem when someone used a laser and didn't realize they don't work on all bows.
I don't discount lasers because I have had them used on my bow but only at full draw on a shooting machine to set camalignment.You can also use them off the cams on some bowsto set centershot but you can't use them on all bows off the riser.
You do provide some good info,I am not trying to give you a hard time.
I can walk back tune and then group tune with field points and my broadheads and paper are dead on.Then again,you are right,the average person doesn't know how to accomplish this.
That is why I made my post with the link,educate 1 at a time.
08-24-2007, 07:43 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 18
RE: Paper tune picture
TFOX,
Your method sounds like it works very well. Like I said I'm new at this so I googled walk back tuning. I read up on it. My big question isdo in need to shoot blank shafts or can I shoot fletched arrows and adjust accordling after the walk back.
Fred
Your method sounds like it works very well. Like I said I'm new at this so I googled walk back tuning. I read up on it. My big question isdo in need to shoot blank shafts or can I shoot fletched arrows and adjust accordling after the walk back.
Fred
08-24-2007, 08:24 PM
#19
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
RE: Paper tune picture
Read my thread that I linked.
Spine needs to be perfect and then the rest of the procedures fall into place.
The big problem with newbies is torque.Centershot is the most important settingwith all tuning methods and once that is compromised,accuracy is compromised.
Spine needs to be perfect and then the rest of the procedures fall into place.
The big problem with newbies is torque.Centershot is the most important settingwith all tuning methods and once that is compromised,accuracy is compromised.
08-24-2007, 08:57 PM
#20
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Roanoke, Va
Posts: 3,562
RE: Paper tune picture
TFOX
I have read your post a few times and even printed a hard copy to keep in my bow case. Great info there. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
My question to you is about the laser centershot tool. I was under the impression if you set the laser to the string and then the arrow that proper centershot would be obtained (like in Greg/MO's thread). Don't you want the string to disect the arrow since your string is the driving force? Does my question make sense?
How does a laser work with one bow and not the other?
Duc
I have read your post a few times and even printed a hard copy to keep in my bow case. Great info there. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
My question to you is about the laser centershot tool. I was under the impression if you set the laser to the string and then the arrow that proper centershot would be obtained (like in Greg/MO's thread). Don't you want the string to disect the arrow since your string is the driving force? Does my question make sense?
How does a laser work with one bow and not the other?
Duc