corey006

Last year I used Gametracker's First Cut 145 gr on a Terminator Hunter arrow weighing 500 gr. The First Cut's are an EXCELLENT flying broadhead and they hit with my field points at any range. The only complaint I had was that the steel seemed a little soft and didn't hold an edge well. Also with my short draw I would like a little flatter shooting so for this year I decided to try a little different setup.

I went back to my old CX 300's and have been trying to shoot Magnus Snuffers and Phantom broadheads(both 125 gr). With 3-4 inch vanes(with as much offset as I can get out of my JoJan) they come in at around 381 gr with an FOC of 12.9. I get good bullet holes when paper tuning but my broadheads group 2 to 3 inches left of my field points at 20 yards. I tried going to 3-5 inch vanes(12.5% FOC) but this didn't make any difference. I also tried increasing draw weight but still grouping left.

The only thing I can think of is going to a helical fletching and possibly feathers(which would give me 363 gr and 15.5% FOC), or maybe my arrows are just plain too light???

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nodose

why would you suggest moving his rest...he said his arrows are flying great w/broadheads.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I get good bullet holes when paper tuning but my broadheads group 2 to 3 inches left of my field points at 20 yards. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>

move your sight pin.

5 shot

You may get the results you want by going to a full helical on your current fletchings. Feathers also help in the reguard as well. I also agree that you may also get the broadheads to group with field points by moving your rest slightly. The easton tuning guide is a great refrence to help you out.
To my way of thinking you basicly have two kinds of bow tune. group tuning which gives you the very best accuracy, not always the best arrow flight. You also have paper tuning which will give you the very best arrow flight, but not always the best accuracy. The two do not always go together. What I do is paper tune at 3, 10 and 15 feet with field points. I then go to the range with my perfectly spinning broadhead tipped arrows. If they hit together out to 40 yards great, if not I will move my rest in small amounts until I get the heads grouping very close if not exactly together. When I go back and shoot the arrows through paper I useualy end up with a small tear, not the perfect bullet hole, but as long as the tear is small, and my groups are great I am happy. their have been times though when I wasn't able to get the points of impact to come together, but they were always close and consistant.

TAKE YOUR KIDS HUNTING AND YOU WON'T BE HUNTING FOR YOUR KIDS

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BTM

Every article I've read says to move the rest a little to the RIGHT if the BHs hit left of FPs. They also say that this doesn't always work, and that the most important thing is to get good groups. In my case, BHs hit 4-5&quot; left at 40 yds. Moving the rest hasn't helped, so I just move the sight out a little before hunting.

Never trust a bow under 40 (inches).

corey006

Thanks for the help guys.

I will probably try and move my rest in about 1/32 and go from there and try and find middle ground and then check my paper tune as 5 shot stated. I will also give feathers a try too just to see and as a last resort try full helical.

Thanks again.

Bees

Corey006. The grouping to the left of the broadheads show a stiff spine reaction for a right handed shooter. So how do you weaken the spine without changing the arrow? Use a heavier broadhead and that will weaken the spine a bit. Another trick raise the poundage of the bow some. Decrease spring tension in the rest if it applies to your rest. And also move rest in 1/32 inch increments to the right, towards the bow. These are the things to try to correct a stiff spine reaction. Good luck...