KodiakArcher

Good thought. I'll put the QT 3000 prong rest on and see what that does before I start tearing things down on it.

daddymoose

Here's something that might help.Try moving string loop in different places.String loop may be to high or low.

archer58

There may be a timing problem w/ the cams. I'm not talking about the dots and the cams being synchronized,but I'm referring to your cable stops. The Binary cams need to be cable stop timed as well. I had a similar problem w/ my 06 Tribute.
The cable stops need to conact the cables at full draw at the same time. This needs to happen justas the draw stop touches the limb. The cable stops CAN NOT push on the cables at full draw.
If your rest cord is too tight it will cause additional timing problems.

If you want to check your stop timing, a draw board is the best way. I simply use a hanging scale. First, if you are sure that all your terminal specs. are correct , place a piece of paper on both your cables where the stops will contact them at full draw. BTW, dissconnect your rest cord.
At full draw the paper ( 1 X 5 piece of paper)will be between the cable and the stop. You should be able to pull the paperbetween the cable and the stop w/o too much effort and not rip it. If you can't , you have too much pressure on the cable and need to twist your cables a time or two.This will move the dots, but they are for reference according to Bowtech. There is no EXACT position for them. My dots on the outside of the limbs are-1 full dot, and the limb cuts the second one , with one fulldot on the inside of the limb. The goal here is to not have the stops pushing hard into the cables.

Now, connect your rest cord and check the timing. It will change the timing and letoff.

I have attached a qoute below for your information.

"These bows are very sensitive to any pressure applied to the cables. (1) When installing a fallaway on a binary cam bow it MUST be timed to rise at the last 1/2 inch of draw cycle. (2) When tying into the down cable you need to tie in 6 inches below the rest to avoid distorting the path of the cable which will cause nock travel problems (3) After you have tied into the down cable and timed the rest check the Peak draw weight and holding weight of the bow. I think when you do the math you will find the letoff percentage is about 65%. When you then spread the cam timing where the top cam is retarded 2 twists compared to the bottom cam 80% letoff will return. This timing can be done in one of three ways. If you would like to slightly lengthen your draw add 2 twists to the cable to the top cam, if you would like to slightly shorten it remove 2 twists from the cable to the bottom cam and if you are happy with your draw length add 1 twist to the cable to the top cam and remove 1 twist from the cable to the bottom cam. That's about it. The folks at Trophy Taker have set up some of their rests on Allegiances and found the same thing to be true as has **** ******. In fact it was Mike who first suggested the idea to me. He was and is right."

Of course this may or may not be a contributing factor to the nock high situation, but it fixed mine. I hpoe this helps.

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KodiakArcher

Well I finally got freed up from killing fish long enough to work on this bow. Here's what I found out:

The nock low issue was from the rest pulling on the down cable. (I'm still having trouble comprehending it but the evidence was compelling.) I replaced the QAD with an NAP that pulls on the cable slide and the nock low issue went away but I picked up a nock right issue from rest contact that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did. I hate to admit this but I had a WB laying around from one of the Diamonds that never sold when the shop went out of business so I put it on. BAM! Bullet hole after bullet hole. Looks like I'm a Bisquit-head now, at least as far as this BowTech is concerned...

DaveC

The bisquit cure one of my solo cams that was giving me this smae issue UNTIL I took 1/2 turn out of the top limb.

I doubt that was your issue, but the reults were the same- the bisquit will help control an unruley arrow as it leaves the bow.

Archer58,I found the above quote very informative. As much as I love the power binaries provide they sure make tuning a solcam easy.......

TradTech

Sheeeeesh Rob, I was getting a headache following this thread.

I had a similar problem with an Ultratec which inturn was a sync AND drawstop timing issue.

I had read on AT, on a couple different posts regarding how sensitive the binary system was regarding tying into the buss cable.

I was tempted to post it but since the binary's scare me, no pun intended, I chose not to.

I had a long learning curve working with the C&1/2's until I understood that the reference marks on the cams were only for "reference". Talk about old school....

I kind of miss the old days with the easy tune hatchet cams on the old HC's and Martins. Like Huffy bicycles...didn't look purty' but got ya' from point A to B.[8D]

JOE PA

I had no idea that binary cams could be so tough to tune. It seems your problem is solved for now, but you could try setting the QAD up off the cable slide too. That's how I had it set up with my first Darton Tundra. CPS sure seems easy to tune compared to all of these other systems.