billyj87

I have a question about broadhead tuning. I seem to have a problem with it every year. Do I need to bring the field point and broadhead groups together or adjust the sights if the BH's shoot good? Any help on this subject would be appreciated. Thanks

Billy Davis

nodose

just adjust the sights if you're BH's are flying good. most field points don't hit the same place on a target as a BH unless you're using a mechanical head similar to the profile of a field point.

Jerry/Pa

Billy, I know if I got my B/S to group with my Fletched arrows then my BH's (Muzzy 90's) would group with my fletched arrows with very little or no tweaking. As you can see from this thread that there is different approaches to tuning. What Pinwheel and others have stated all arrow set-up's have different flight characteristic's and need to be tuned seperatly. The jury is still out on this for me cause I've not tested there process yet and have seen and have been able to tune using B/S ,fletch and BH's in combination with each other. I'm looking to see what other responces I get with this thread and if any one else has used my process with any success. JERRY

Rack-attack

I will throw in my .0003 cents since I have also used the b/s method in my tunning for about 10 years. My setups are 100% hunting setups, so to achieve long distance or supper tight field point accuracy there may be a better way.

I agree with Jerry/Pa, in that if my b/s hit with my fletched shafts at 25 yds, my broadheads will be right on or very, very close.

I have also found b/s paper tunning to be a good tool. I set up for bullet holes with b/s and I am always very close to a great b/h tune.

Another great thing about bare shaft shooting is that it is a great tool to check form -(if you are off at all, it WILL show)

All my 5 arrow pratice groups include a b/s. This has been a great help for me in keeping my form in check.

You would be amazed at how many people I have met who stated there bow and form were right on. Then I convince them to strip down one arrow and shoot it - many do not even hit the target with it<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

I agree with Pinwheel, in that they should not hit the same hole, but add some cresting tape to the b/s to mimic fletching weight and I believe they will fly very, very close at hunting distances. Infact I know so.

My final step is to b/h group tune out to about 50 yds. Usually when I am done I can group my b/s b/h and f/p in the same 2 inch circle at 30 yds.

Good luck Jerry and thanks Pin

Black Frog

Jerry,

Don't think that you're alone. For my target field shooting I do things like PW12 describes. In that case I'm concerned about my best groups out to 80yds and I'm not worried about putting on a broadhead.

But for my hunting setup, I do some bareshafting with the approximate FOC of fletched shafts. I do this by fletching the shaft, and then trimming the top part of the vanes to leave the base of the vane and the glue on the shaft. And then gluing a small BB on the end of the nock before inserting in the shaft will get very close results as far as matching FOC of the fletched shafts. Or I have done a light dip-coat of paint for my bareshaft before fletching to get the FOC close. With some tinkering you can get a b/s very close to final weight and FOC of a fletched shaft.

My b/s trials are mostly for left/right considerations, and I'm not too worried about up/down as long as it's reasonable. The drag portion of the fletching will account for some of the up/down differences compared to fletched shafts. I know guys say it's a waste of time, and I really respect their opinions, but I've had too much success doing things this way. With the approximate same FOC bareshaft, I can see tiny spine differences that I wouldn't have been able to detect very well with fletched shafts. Example: I fletched up my hunting arrows along with the FOC bareshaft. I wasn't quite sure if the shafts were spined correctly for the bow when I went to the range. I adjusted for the best grouping of fletched shafts and then threw the b/s out to the bale and it was off quite a bit. The only thing I did then was adjust the bow poundage and kept everything else constant. With each turn of the limb bolts I'd shoot a group with the bareshaft and I could see the b/s walking across the target as the poundage changed. The small arrow spine reactions were apparent when changing the poundage of the bow.

An approximate FOC b/s can help to let me know how much &quot;work&quot; my fletching is doing to correct arrow flight. Field points let you get away with murder as far as not planing the arrow off in the wrong direction, but fixed blade broadheads are very telling.

When I can get my FOC b/s and my fletched shafts hitting very close from 10 to 40yds, it seems like a breeze to put on fixed blade broadheads and requires very little adjustment. And it isn't always easy and requires a lot of range time and tinkering- sometimes I need to change tip weights, or cut some length off my shafts (I purposely start with my shafts 1&quot; long just for this case). I have yet to find a good arrow stretcher. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> A note of caution: This should NOT be done with thin-walled aluminums!!

I think the results are worth the effort FOR ME- I'm not saying everyone should do it, and I have full respect for those that say it's a waste of time.

Like others have said, do what you need to do to make yourself satisfied!

8PT

Jerry, I would have thought there would have been more variations of tuning processes posted by now. As I posted before my system is very close to yours except that I do paper test more to begin with. I also reread your initial post and noticed you are using a dual cam bow. Mine is a single cam and it works for me. I put on new string and cable a couple of weeks ago and have been shooting them in. Yesterday I switched over to my 3D arrow setup and when I used this method to check everything out (with the exception of broadheads) I was almost disapointed at how quick everything fell into place since I like to tinker so much. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> When I say 3D setup I probably shouldn't because it is basicly still a hunting arrow (local club shoots in hunter class for fun & practice). For hunting I use goldtip XT5575 29&quot; with 4&quot; rt. helical vanes and 125gr. fixed broadheads/field points. For 3D it is the same shaft with 3&quot; rt.helical feathers and 75gr. field tips. These are at 60lb. draw weight and 29&quot; draw. My speed goes from 257fps/410 gr. arrow to 278 fps/348 gr. arrow. About all I had to do was a slight nock point adjustment from the string/cable settling and reset sight pins. Sometimes I would rather be luck than good.

billyj87

My 2002 cybertec should be here monday. I could use some help with a step by step tuning process. It will be used for hunting only. I had planned on starting with paper tunging, then bareshaft(maybe), and then short or long distance line tuning. Does this sound fine. There has already been a lot of good information on this thread. Thanks

Bill Davis

Jerry/Pa

AR, I have a friend of mine who is a pretty good shooter that just can't shoot a B/S. I think it's his grip but he's consistant with it and Shoots 270-280's in 3-D. He dosen't use the B/S method of tuning and uses a method simular to the one Pinwheel and others have mentioned. Obvious does quit well.

Frogie, You discribed the walking method just as I use it. That's why I've used it for so long. What I think is, you can use the B/S method as a start and then concentrate your tuning to BH's for hunting or fletched arrows for target. Have the best of both worlds. At least thats what I'll do after hunting.

8 PT, The B/S method can be fast can't it? Your set-up is very simular to mine. Except My draw is 27&quot;. I play with my poundage per arrow. 58to 65 lbs. I Usually had two bow set-up but the last couple years my kids in collage is killing me. That will change next year and I'll be back to two bows. For now the only thing I change is arrows. Everything on the bows stays the same and I shoot in the bowhunter class. Which I like anyhow. I shoot an ICS hunter for hunting w/4&quot; feathers and a 90 Muzzy. A Carbon Express 3-D select w/1.5&quot; feathers and 75 gr.tip for 3-D. I can make the change over pretty easily.

Billy, A great place to start is with Easton's Tuning Guide. You can download it from there web site. It has a lot of good info. JERRY