quiksilver

Dave - no pink. [&o] As for durability, I've been using gateway feathers for6-8 years, and I would never go back to a vane (of any kind) - there's no comparison. I'd guess that the rayzr is just as good.

I wish I'd have known about thecheapieebay deal on Rayzrs when I fletched my last dozen. I used regular 4" (pink). LOL

ddsnannychaser - I really think that you could save yourself a lot of aggravation by trying one arrow with feathers on it and seeing how it does. Rayzrs are the feather version of the Blazer vane.

gibblet

dave, the tt uses a spring.

SwampCollie

I know I'm not trying to argue with you here Dave, and I don't think Gib is either. Just try and look at this objectively and see the whole issue, and the whole bow, rather than just one part of it.

Think about this for a second... when you moved your rest forward that 1/4" to 1/2"... did that make it drop faster? Or, perhaps when it was boucncing back up (if it was), was it just not timed quite right (or in this case wrong) to catch a vane as it went past? Perhaps hitting the riser, or something like that kept it from rebounding quite as much, just like an STS/CSS stops your string from oscellating? Lots ofvariables we can't see with our eyes.

Whats the general rule anyway... if you lengthen the cord your rest will drop faster? Or is it the other way around?

Just a little thinking out of the box here. No critisim or anything like that intended or implyed. Just bouncing around ideas here.

davepjr71

Roger on that John. I spoke too soon and about a rest I know little about. Open mouth insert foot. Does the TT series use the cord to pull the rest down and the spring brings it into postion when you draw? If that's the case it works the opposite of the QAD.

I don't think either one of you are trying OT argue with me. We're having a discussion on a problem that people have with drop aways. So, don't worry about me getting upset or anything.

I didn't change the contact with the riser at all on my rest when I moved it forward. When my rest drops there isn't any bounce back. The spring is very strong on the '07 models.

I see what both of you are saying about the bounce back issue and if you make it drop slower it may not bounce back. I think that would be a function of how strong the spring is and also the design of the rest.

At higher speeds if you move the rest forward it will drop quicker, not faster.The rest will only drop asfast as the mechanism that makes it drop activates. The only way to make it faster would be to increase the spring tension. It was incorrect of me to say that the rest will drop faster by moving it forward.

The QAD only uses thecord to bring the flipper to the full position. It also has a ready position that the flipper locks into. On release the forward and downward force of the arrow forces the flipper past the ready position and the spring pulls the flipper down to the bottom position. I've flipped the rest down pretty hard with no kick back at all.

What was happening is that because the rest uses the force of the arrow on the rest to drop the flipper. The flipper did not have time to clear out of the way andI was getting contact on my right hen feather. I slid the rest forward about 1/4" to 3/8" and the contact problem went away.I had a black mark along the wholeblazer before the adjustment.
Ialso raised my nock a little into the range recommended by QAD for my Allegiance. I believe thatI did not have enough down force on the arrow to activate the rest properly.

I guess the only way to truly know what is going on would be high speed film of the arrow upon release.

gibblet

dave, there's a spring that holds the launcher down, the drop away cord pulls the rest up and into launch position, the spring is wanting to take the launcher back down the whole time, and as soon as you release it does just that. high speed video was taken, and bounce back was the culprit on the tt's, and as far as i know all the others that operate the same way.

davepjr71

If it's like the video on QAD's site. The bounce back on the TT is caused by contact with the riser. I've noticed my buddy's TT rests on the riser. My QAD doesn't. When it hits bottom it pretty much stops and if it bounces back at all it's in the 1/100th range.

KodiakArcher

My QAD HD isn't held down by spring pressure. It actually jams when it goes down as if it is being wedged in and held. It takes a bit of extra pressure to get it cocked again from the fired position. It never makes contact with the riser at all which is one of the things I like about it over my NAP QT3000. I must've got lucky with my set-up because I haven't had any timing or contact issues with my Blazers right from day one (2 weeks ago).

davepjr71

The HD model has a caminside the housing that stops the flipper from coming back up. The Hunter model relies on the spring. I wasn't sure about the rest at all so I purchased the base line model. It performs great now that it's been set-up correctly.

Redneck Bowhunter

I am not sure about your hunter model but with my QAD LD the longer you lengthen the rest cord the faster it will drop before the vanes reach the rest. I bought the LD so I would not have to worry about bounce back and so far I haven't.

davepjr71

The rest cord on all of the QAD's only purpose is to bring the arm to parallel with the string. Length has no effect what so ever on how fast it drops. The force the arrow exherts on the arm sets the arm in motion and the spring pulls the arm down. If the cord is not under tension at full draw then the rest is not set-up properly and you will get contact problems.

It does not matter if the cord is a foot long or 6 inches long as long as it has the rest fully cocked.

As I've stated numerous times. i have no bounce back issues on my Hunter model. The spring on the '07 models is pretty strong.

It is very important that the timing cord is attached to the bows downward buss cable. The launcher must be 90 degrees to the bow shelf AT full draw (The launcher can come up an inch before full draw, but no sooner). The rest will not drop away properly if it is not in the Full Upright position AT full draw. **Extra tension on the timing cord at full draw is better than any slack in the cord at full draw, the main reason for the rest to come up before full draw is to compensate for a shooter that creeps before his shot.