SwampCollie

I had a fellow bring a bear TRUTH by the shop a few days ago, and it did something that I have never EVER seen before.

We put a QAD Ultra Hunter on it, we center shot it, bow squared it and shot it. Had a bit of a high flight on release...so we made the adjustments....no change. Made some more....not a thing changed.

This went on for a hour and a half. I eventually had the arrow sitting about 10 degrees upwards....and STILL had a HIGH tear. We shot stiff arrows, weak arrows, and right arrows. Feathers, vanes and blazers. Wasn't a clearance problem like I thought....dunno what it was.]


Any ideas? Tiller heigth was correct...bow was brand new right out of the box. Everything in spec. Was the rest not dropping fast enough? Or was it maybe bouncing back and causing a clearance issue? Thats the only thing I can think of?

willyd5

I run a shop also. Are you shooting the cock feather up or down?? If up is it hiting the top bar?? Did you try and remove the little top bar and see if it changed anything?? Will be interested in what you find out. Good Luck

The Rev

keep us posted.. I'd like to see what you found out.

ijimmy

Everything was in spec , did you check string and cable lengths ?
they orient the cam , which effects nock travel

SwampCollie

I never put those on unless customers specifically ask me to. In this case, we didn't install it (for just that reason). We shot with the index vane up, down and out. Nothing changed. I'm starting to wonder if it might be the bow. I spoke with another fellow who is pretty good at tuning himself, he said he has fiddled with no less than THREE of these bows...and not a single one gave him anything but about a one inch high tear...which is what I got....beats me.....

SwampCollie

That I did not do. But for a brand new bow, straight out of the box to have strings/cables that are wrong....nah...there would have been a recall. As for twists...the cable and string (to the eye anyway) had about the same amount of twists, those green and orange strings make it pretty easy to tell. I didn't bother to take the thing apart. I've seen some pretty out of spec bows shoot darts.

What really baffles my mind, is that no matter what I did..the bow just did not respond to anything. I have seen one other bow do this before...it was an older Martin with those hybrid TAC cams....and either the limb was warped or an axel bent...but it would tear nothing but right....no matter what we did to it...exact same thing. Nuts...

98Redline

Sounds like it might be a cam timing issue. As mentioned, a slightly over or under rotated cam can cause some pretty funky nock travel and a darn near impossible to tune bow.

Not to insult your intelegence but just asking some of the basic questions.

1) when you measured tiller, did you use the bow string or a string stretched between the axles? Setting an even tiller with the bow string on a single cam bow will yield a bow that is significantly out of tune.

2) Did you change the rest to something like a prong rest to see if it would tune with that? I have never used the QAD rest, however I have had a couple of bows that simply did not like a particular rest. They would tune fine with just about anything else.

Arthur P

That'd be my guess, too.

ijimmy

Straight out of the box the cam should be in the correct position , Id try a different rest also .

Unfortunately we've all had a bow or 3 that would not tune no matter what we did .

SwampCollie

We might be having one of those north/south language barrier blocks going on here.... As I understand it (and it might be me calling a "Pop" a "Coke", tiller is the distance between the limb pocket and the string. It just makes certain that the bows limbs are let out the same amount when adjusting the poundage. As it was...this bow was cranked down all the way (set at 60.1#s....and it was a 60# bow). The distances I measured were the same....though I don't recall exactly what they were anymore. That is my understanding of tiller. Now, what you have described...I call axel to axel. Probably just a term mix up on my part...but nobody knows everything...my intelligence is certainly not insulted...I'm always up for learning more...thats why I'm here.

Actually we did not. I did change the prongs themselves, as the QAD comes with two sets, one is an 1/8" higher than the stock one, to allow for bows that have low nock set or low travel or something to that effect. It didn't make any difference. I honestly thought it was a clearance thing...but I'm still not sure...especially after shooting feathers with it. I did have a QAD that bounced back on my Iron Mace...but that same rest is now on my Mathews LX and it works like a charm. I'm vexed.