sandilands

What should happen? I was out shooting today and decided to shoot bareshaft. My arrow is flying nose down and tail up. That cant be good. I mostly just hunt but would like to have my rig tuned, is this a good start?

mobow

When bareshaft tuning, it's not how they fly, it's where they hit. Where do they hit in relation to fletched arrows?

Straightarrow

Make sure you're shooting from at least 20 yards when bareshaft testing. You have to work your way back if the setup isn't close at the start.

sandilands

I was shooting at 10yds first. I was shooting at a downward angle for safety reasons and they seemed to fly almost decent. I moved back to 20yds and the nose was 8-10" low in flight and POI was 6" low. It was recommended thatI check for nock pinch and then to time my cams. I don't know how to time my cams[&o]
I moved the top knot on my loop up about 1/32"
I'm shooting a Bowtech Tomkat 28.5"DL at about 58lbs with beman ICS camo hunters(28.5"long.... maybe too long), 100gr tips and WB rest.

Soilarch

Wrong way, if the arrow hits low your rest should go up (or your nock down).

POI is more important than how the arrow actually flies...but I suppose the idea is to get them both right.

I prefer papertuning, but I'll admit bareshaft is a little less hassle (for me anyway...as I don't have or keep a paper holder around.)

You can always look up the Easton Tuning guide for some pointers.

But remember, you just need to pretty much try it all until something works. I just heard of a guy who had to actually CREATE some cam lean...but he can now shoot bullet holes with a bareshaft from 2-8 yards!? The rules are good, but they can be broken.

archer58

I know guys that bare shaft tune at 20 and 30 yrds.
I use bare shaft tuning to find cam lean and nock height. Because of this I only shoot at 6ft.,5yrds. and 10yrds. I also bare shaft w/ paper at short distance.

If you're hittingnock high , raise your rest or lower your loop. Also make sure your arrow is entering the target straight.

Len in Maryland

sandilands:

This is your original post:

Quote:

What should happen? I was out shooting today and decided to shoot bareshaft. My arrow is flying nose down and tail up. That cant be good. I mostly just hunt but would like to have my rig tuned, is this a good start?

This part of it, however, really hit a nerve if I interpret it correctly:

Quote:

I mostly just hunt but would like to have my rig tuned, is this a good start?

The way I interpret this is that you've been hunting without a tuned rig, but would like to tune your rig for some 'other' purpose. This purpose more than likely is to be a better target shooter???

I see this many times at my shop andyou seem to have provided a forum platform for me to address this issue. If I've interpreted your statement wrong, I apologize, but I'll proceed to explain why this should be addressed anyway.

A tuned system is much more important for hunting than it is for tournament.First, atournament rig does not use fixed broadheads. Arrows can leave the bow 'tail high' and the fletching will straighten it out within a given distance. As long as the grouping is 'controlled', the method of arrival, even if it's not a straight line, is acceptable.

Hunting arrows, if not maximizing a straight path to the animal, loose energy on the way and affect penetration. If the hunting arrow does not impact the animal in a straight line, the arrow can bend on impact and also affect penetration. Look at it as a train or tractor trailer impacting an object; the tail will try to 'come around.'

Tuning, IMPO, should be more critical for a hunting rig. There are many reasons for this, but the main reason is respect for the animal.

Thank you foryour indulgence in this matter. It's something that is very passionate to me.

BGfisher

I am in completer agreement Lenny. When people use the term "It's only for hunting" I kinda look at it as they are either uneducated or maybe unethical. Probably the former.

A bow/arrow combination can be grossly mismatched or out of tune and group very nicely with target points. Put blades up front and thing go to pot in a hurry.

sandilands

Actually I just bought the bow in march. I had intended to go for bear this spring but a few issues with my new bow came up.......... I had already donated my old bow to a deserving young individual[:@]and I really didn't want to go w/muzzleloader or rifle. I had my heart set on doing my first bear hunt w/archery equipment[&o]. I do appreciate your concern and I am in the same camp. I had help tuning my last bow and am in the process of trying to learn to do it myself. Black bear season starts Apr 23 and goes to jun 10........... I haven't been on stand once and have 2 bait sights that need to be filled 3x a week........ since the second week of apr[&o][:@].
I have been hunting w/bow for 2yrs now....... and shooting for 7. It took me 5yrs to get to the level that I wanted to be at.And even then my max range was only 20yds. I simply wasn't confident in my shooting ability past this distance and let animals walk on a daily basis that were just beyond that 20yd mark. In 2 yrs I have taken 4 whitetails w/bow. One at 7yds then 15, 17 and 21yds[:-]. Whats a yard b/w friends. I have had 3 pass thru's and the one that didn't pass through hit HEAVY bone on exit....... the deer went 60yds and died.
I understand that if my arrow does not fly true it will not penetrate properly........ hence the reason for me not to sit on my bear stand until I have these issues corrected. A couple of the guys that I know don't tune their bows and have never had a pass-thru....... drawing 15lbs more. Last yr the guy started to blame his broadhead. He was using muzzy' and I was using SlickTricks. Len I take no offence to what you said.......... I agree w/your post 100%! But I think you have mistaken me for someone else. And Bgfisher Unethical..... I think not. Uneducated....... maybe a little, but Rome wasn't built in a day. I'm on a different part of the learning curve than many but that is why I am here. TO LEARN. Look at my post count and how long I have been a member. For the most part I come here to read and to learn from people that have more knowledge than me........ thus shortening the learning curve.
This is something I see here and on other sights all the time. veteran archers/hunters pouncing on the rookies when they don't have the knowledge that you have. Untilsome of the veterans realize that they had to startsomewhere to get where they are todaythen the younger guys/gals are going to feel like not posting their questions. Lets try some positive reinforcement(sp)........ its been proven to work better.
So now back to the topic. Like was stated above I thought I had some nock pinch and corrected that. My bareshaft/fltched group improved. The bareshaft is still flying nose down albeit better than B4. But the POI is about 1" lower than my fletched arrow. I am now going to move my rest down in small increments. Do you think this is the path I should take. And not to sound facetious but I hope this post has earned me the respect of some of the more veteran shooters/hunters........ not to sound like topdawgwoofwoof[X(]and I will get the help that I'm asking for. And please note I am asking for help so I don't turn into one of those guys that everybody cringes at.

Len in Maryland

sandilands:

I issued an apology already for any misinterpretation of your post:

Quote:

If I've interpreted your statement wrong, I apologize, but I'll proceed to explain why this should be addressed anyway.

I'm sure there are many on here who will try to assist you in tuning your bow. For many reasons, I do not get into tuning issues. Sorry.

I get more into assisting forum members in many other areas and do get involved whenever I see misinformation being handed out. Many on here understand my position and I respect them for that.

You're doing the right thing by asking for help and I know you'll receive some. You shouldn't receive any bashing now that folks understand your position/needs.

Good luck and good hunting,

Len