huntmup

So first off, thanks to all for the advice on how to get started fletching my own arrows (actually I want to get set up to repair my 3d arrows through the season as needed).

Now that I've purchased what I believe to be adequate components can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong???

My vanes come off my shaft with some - but not a lot - of pressure. If I check one of my existing arrows (from the shop) they just won't come off but mine *pop* off fairly easy (in comparison).

I'm using a Bitz jig & the vane has full length contact with the shaft. The vanes are Easton & the shafts are gold-tips.

I used acetone to strip the dip off the shaft, then let it dry.

I used Bohning 'RED TUBE for CARBONS' adhesive & when the vane 'pops' off the adhesive appears to be sticking to the shaft because there IS adhesive on the shaft and NOT on the vane.

I then cleaned the shaft with alcohol (same effect) and cleaned the vane with alcohol (same effect) and cleaned the vane with acetone (same effect).

I have no idea why these don't 'stick'....

Anyone have a theory?

Aim small miss small

The Mouse

Don't know if this will help, but here are a few things I have done when my vanes didn't stick well.

1) Unless you are using a super glue like AAE Fastset, wipe the vane bases with lacquer thinner to remove any mold release chemical residue. I use Flex Bond (kind of like red tube Bohning) and the vanes don't adhere at all unless I do this. Is acetone chemically identical to lacquer thinner? Since your glue isn't sticking to the vane base then I would try rubbing the bases with rag or swab soaked with lacquer thinner.

2) My brand new shafts (I use Bemans) are really slick and I have to rough up the vane section just a tiny bit to get better hold. I use a plastic Scotch Brite pad for this.

3) Use denatured alcohol to wipe the shaft clean. DON'T USE RUBBING ALCOHOL since this contains a tiny amount of oil that will interfere with the glue.

4) Put a drop of glue at the front and rear of the vane after you remove it from the clamp. This has helped me a lot.

5) Be patient...as tough as it is. You will figure out what works best for you. Good luck.

HuntingNet Member since Spring 2001

Pinwheel 12

I agree. Personally I think you may have gotten some poor adhesive. Try some of the AAE fastset gel, or other quality adhesive. You should always clean both the shaft and the vane to remove any oils or other material that could affect them.(which it sounds like you do) Also, dry them in a climatically controlled area, above 60 degrees for best results. Make sure all components are at room temperature also when starting to fletch, If you had them sitting in your truck overnight in -10 weather, bring them in and fletch them, this will also prove to be a problem. I'm kind of at a loss here because you seem to have done things correctly, so we must look at the adhesive itself I beleive in this case. Good shooting, Pinwheel 12

olddogrib

I don't see anything wrong with your technique. I've never used the adhesive or the shafts. The only additional step I take is very lightly roughing the shaft end with a "scotchbrite" type scrubbing pad after the acetone cleaning and wiping residue away with a clean dry cloth. I still ocasionally had adhesion problems which lead to fix #2. Get some Goat-Tuff adhesive and forget about everything else because it's not coming off. I've never been partial to the "instant-bond" adhesives, but nothing else is in its class. Put very small dots of glue about 1/4" apart down the vane base and use the tip of the bottle to connect the dots. Get the vane where you want it the first time because "she ain't moving" after that. Set up occurs in seconds and you can go to the next vane, which means you can do complete arrow in minutes instead of hours.

ijimmy

I'D try useing a diferant vane Truflight has always been the best for me , forget boning . Goat tuff glue works well give it about 20 minets in the jig .you might try roughing up the shaft where the fletch goes on with some 600 grit paper and then clean with denatured alchol or laquer thiner {same thing}. Truflights dont have to be cleaned they have a bonding ajent on allready .The tip about putting a drop of glue on the leading and trailing edge is very good also if you get pass thrus on your target or deer the vanes are much more likely to stay put .

We all have different oppinions , if we did'nt the world would be a BORING place

Orions_Bow

I would change to the AAE Fastset Gel to fletch your arrows. You will find this gives a much better bond than the Bhoning glue you are using. Really the glue you have been using is said to work for carbons but honestly it is not the best choice and the bond it gives is very weak compaired to the other products out there.

chadr

huntmup, easton diamond vanes have an accelorator applied to to base of the vanes. This accelorater is designed to work with aae fastset glues or other superglue type glues. You should not wipe them clean if using this type of glue. If you are using a cement type glue I would clean the base of the vanes and the arrow shaft with denatured alcohol. Personally I would only clean the shafts and use regular old wal-mart super glue. It only costs 99 cents for two bottles and is chemically identical to goat tuff and aae fastset.

PSEsniper

when I flech my arrows I use AEE fastest its ony 3$ a tube and it seems to work for me. I just got mine done from gander mountain to compare the job and after I shot them for a month or so they already came of execept for one that just came off 2 days ago when I shot and it flew off right when I shot and it made a half inch slice in my hand.

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AK

Huntmup, You've made it this far, now it's just a matter of finding a glue that works. :^) I've never used those vanes or shafts (feathers and woodies with laquer or poly finishes here), so I can't comment on which one would work best for you. It sounds like these other guys might be onto something with this AAE glue, though.