TFOX

Trust me whenI say there are issues with the WB also.


I believe you are hitting the capture arms and moving the nock up is correct but you must also move the rest up so it can drop further.Basically keep the arrow level but just move it up a bit.

Paul L Mohr

I have not shot that exact rest, but I own the original rest by SME when it first came out. The instructions specifically said the arrow should be set up higher than normal, I believe it had to be at least one inch off from the shelf. Which on my bow meant that I had set the arrow up so it was above the berger hole (the hole in the riser that the rest mounts to) instead of level with it. This would also require you to raise your nock set or string loop as well. And probably re-adjust your sights.

This rest did not offer as much clearance as some of the other drop aways, but in my opinion was a better rest because it didn't utilize any overdraw in order to work. Which is a more forgiving set up as far as torque and grip issues go. It was also the quietest drawing rest I have ever used. Mine also used a linkage system similar to the Muzzy Zero effect instead of a cable hooked to your harness.

I am not sure if the new rests are set up the same or not, I have seen them, but not set up on a bow.

Paul

TFOX

Paul
The Kaz shouldn't need to be set as high as the older models,which I have.It is a slight overdraw rest so it falls below the shelf and the arms are much smaller.2 prongs and they fall from each side.


I suggest that you put some lipstick on the rest and see if it rubs off on the vanes when you shoot.You may have a different problem.Eliminate 1 thing at a time.


I shoot feathers with my older style so contact isn't ever a problem.I have checked with lipstickand have none.

bow_hunter44

No rub on the lipstick when it is on the grabber fingers (for lack of something better to call them). How about putting some lipstick on the back of the fletching to see if it smears on the rest on the way by? By the way, the arrows I have fletched with blazers seem to have a more significant impact than the 4" vanes....

Thanks for the lipstick idea. I have used that years ago but had completely forgotten about it!!

bow_hunter44

Kodiak, you are right. Paper tuning is premature if one has contact issues. I wasn't really paper tuning. I was paper, shooting through, looking. I have been working on my form, shooting with my eyes closed for 10 days and I was looking for some sort of self assessment to determine if I was improving. The good news is that I could see an improvement in the tear patterns with no change in the bow! The bad news is that I can still see where my fletching is being worked...

TFOX

How about the cable.Is there sufficient clearance there.Or maybe on the inside of the shelf.


Are you sure the black marks are new.Maybe they are left over from your previous rest.


Is it just one vane on each arrow or all?

bow_hunter44

Good observation (the black marks being artifacts of a previous rest) - however, I have some arrows with new fletching that I have only shot on the new rest that are marked also. Although I haven't ruled out the marks comingfrom previous outings. I have some new arrows I will try. I doubt the contact is from the inside of the shelf as the marks are on both fletchings that are facing down....