Washington Hunter

How much emphasis do you folks put on bare shaft tuning your bows?

Elkcrazy8

You may get many answers, but it is the only tuning that I do. Once I am done, the groups are very tight.


Check out TFOX's post on tuning, he has some great info.

Straightarrow

I don't think bareshaft tuning is the best way to deternine centershot. On the other hand, I think it's essential to use it before tuning for centershot, in determining proper spine. I start out with an arrow that is slightly too stiff and too long. Then, with my draw weight where I prefer to shoot, I start trimming 1/4" from the arrow while bareshaft tuning, until I have dynamic spine perfect for my setup. Once I get real close by trimming the shaft, I finish up by fine tuning draw weight until the spine is exactly correct.

This method requires that you not build your arrows until you are done bareshafting one of them. To do this correctly, you have to actually fletch one to where you think they'll end up (experience will tell you this). You need one fletched arrow to use as a comparison to the flight of the bareshaft arrow.

Roskoe

Please forgive my lack of understanding of this process. I mentioned it at our local archery shop and they said it was a waste of time for modern compound bows. So exactly what am I looking for when bare shaft tuning? An arrow that enters thetarget perfectly in line with its path of travel, I would assume. At what distance? And if the arrow angles into the target pointing to the right (for a RH shooter), is that a sign of too little spine? Thanks.

GRIZZLYMAN

I started bare-shaft tuning before this last season. I put a lot more stock in this tuning than paper tuning. Paper tuning gives you a starting place, but bareshaft tuning lets you fine tune it.

Roskoe

Can you give me a more specific idea of what bareshaft tuning is going to tell the archer? Like if the arrrows are angling off to the right (for a RH shooter), does that mean you need a stiffer arrow? Or need to move the rest to the right?

RobinAim Low

It paints the same picture as paper tuning, but is much more critical allowing you to get a finer tune. Paper tuning truly is only a starting point. Sure, it is often "good enough" even for broadheads, but just because you have a good paper hole, doesn't always mean it is perfect, or even good enough. Check out Easton's Tuning Guide, found on their website. Every bowhunter should be required to read that, IMO. I don't have the direct link handy, but it is easy enough to find.

IMO, if someone says bare shaft tuning is a waste of time with modern compounds, they don't know what they are talking about. It may not be necessary in all cases, but certainly isn't a waste of time.

Roskoe

Thanks.

ijimmy

0

its a waste of time , just for you robin

If you read eastons guide its says its for finger shooters , and determining proper spine for mostly traditional archers shooting off the shelf witout a release

For compound shooters its a geat way to bend or destroy arrows

archer58

I bare shaft tune only when a bow is a problem. Bare shaft tuning IMO is just another tuning method. You could easily forget it and paper tune to start the process and walk-back tune to finish. I really prefer walk back for precise settings.
Bare shaft tuning WILL turn up any vane contact problems if you can't get good tears in paperor are having a problem w/ walk back tuning.
That is essentially when I go to bare shaft tuning.