TFOX

We have been getting into some talk about tuning methods lately and thought I would give some reasons that I use multiple ways to check tune.


First thing is to set up the rest and on most bows,the centershot is between 3/4" and 7/8" from the inside of the riser. Most of you have seen me tell people to start at 13/16"; the reason is simple: it is right in the middle of the range. Set the nock level to slightly above level for some 1-cam bows.Then make sure there is no cam lean at full draw and you are ready to tune.


I will usually go ahead and check it through paper at this point just to see. If itis a new arrow and bow, I will bareshaft to make sure the spine is close, then check fletched arrows to make sure there is no contact.


Then it is off to the walk back method, shooting to see if the arrows will fall in a straight line back to a distance of 40-50 yards using your 20-yard pin. Adjustthe rest untill the arrows fall pretty close to straight up and down.


NOW, the reason I do not stop here is because the walk back can be misleading. When a bow's centershot isn't set, your groups will spray left to right instead of in a circular group. This will give you a false reading if you are spraying your arrows a little differently when walking back. Your arrows might be in a 2" horizontal path and you think this is as good as you can shoot, when you may be able to get the arrows in a 1/2" horizontal path.

This is why I move on to group tuning. Shoot groups at the furthest distance you are comfortable with. Some of you might be 30; some it might be 40. I will say extend it to your max. Shoot 3-4 arrow groups and then document. Move the rest in in very small increments,1/32 at a time and repeat. Then move the rest out and repeat.There will be a point to where the groups will tighten and you document; you can go back to that spot when things start opening up.

Do the same for vertical. The groups will spray up and down and at some point,you will get your tightest possible group.

You should be able to check your broadheads at this point; they will most likely be very close to field points. If not, you should only need to make very minor adjustments. If adjustments are needed,recheck your groups. If major adjustments need to be made, then check paper for spine issues or torque issues.

Then check your walk back method again; I think most will see that they tightened up the left to right distance.

Then go check the paper again. You should have a bullet or near-bullet hole, provided you do not torque the bow. I have found at this point if you have atear that a spine adjustment might need to be made.

Some will throw the bareshaft in the mix and eliminate some of the others; I prefer the above. I don't shoot an arrow without fletching so I don't worry about it. I do agree with the method and the results, but I find it a little more frustrating than what I have described.

I have also found it to give me the most forgiving setup I can find.

TFOX

Here are pics of paper after walk back and group.Number 1 was after walk back and 2 was after group.They are VERY close but I did move the rest for group tuning. I am not finished because I usually like doing it twice.You know how some days are better than others,plus,there was a slight breeze today.

This was only at 6'.When I redo for the final time,I will check at 2',6' and 10'.I usually get good tear at all these distances when spine is right.


As you can see,2 is better than 1 but not by much.

Roskoe

THanks, TFox. This has a logical flow to it. One question: at what point in the process could you/would youdetermine that the spine of your arrows might be off? I'm asking because, even by using the charts to select to ideal arrow spine, oftentimes (at least for me) an arrow that should be "ideal" for a heavier bow will shoot better.

TFOX

You can usually detect it right at the beginning when checking a bare shaft through paper.

If you have to really make wierd adjustments to the rest to get a good tear,there are probably other issues.Such as spine and/or torque.

If an arrow is too weak,the whole process will be tough.


If the arrow is too stiff,there shouldn't be any problems with the walk back or group tuning but the tear MIGHT be bad.But with the proper spine,you should be able to get a little tighter.


I use a program to get the right spine and that has eliminated most problems associated with spine.

TFOX

Sometimes when a bow has nock travel that isn't level,a stiffer arrow will shoot better.


Or a bow just shoots harder than the charts are setup for and they need stiffer arrows.I am starting to see this more and more.

Madjac20

Good post, TFOX. This explains alot to me. I've been doing about 90% of what you've described. Your post will get me right where I want to be. Thanks for the info.

mobow

Mods, this post deserves one of those deer awards in the corner....Very well done sir!

Everything you say makes perfect, logical sense. I guess this is where a micro adjustable rest would be worth it's weight in gold.

One question.....In your opinion, how close can you get to "perfect," if there were such a thing, simply by paper tuning? Provided you keep the rest in centershot and your arrows are spined properly.

TFOX

I can get REAL close but I won't stop there.You can see how little change there was in tear and my rest probably moved 1/16 to 3/32.I believe I will move about 1/32 more before I am done.


This is exactly why you need a micro adjustable rest.You need to be able to micro adjust vertical and horizontal,SEPARATELY from each other.

Hoytail Hunter

Excellent, thanks!

CAJUNBOWHNTR

One thing I've found helpful on a rest that is'nt micro adjustable or have fine tuning marks is to take some white out and paint the adjustment bar.then take a fine black marker and make marks in 1/32 increments.Good advice.I will usually use paper just a a ballpark when doing initial tuning then perform walkback and finally group tuning for centershot.One hting to note also is if you wind up having to adjust your rest outside of a "normal" range then you likely have a spine problemor amechanical issue with the bow.


CB