Straightarrow

My walk-back tuning is a variation of both of your methods combined.

I take a piece of black electrical tape and use a level to apply it perfectly vertical on my target. My walk-back involves shooting groups at 20 and then groups at 60 or 70 yards. When the center of each group is eactly on the center of the vertical tape, I've got the centershot perfect. To me, it's never made any sense to shoot only one arrow at many distances. One arrow might be off due to form. A group will always give you a more accurate picture at a given distance. It has also never made any sense to me, to shoot at more than two distances. One at 20 and the other as far back as your comfortable with.

I alternate back and forth between the two distances, adjusting my centershot and sight, until I have both groups perfectly on the center of the vertical tape.

When tuning for nock height, I use paper to get close and then I use group tuning at 60 yards to fine tune it.

TFOX

Straightarrow,I have done that before also.


The elictrical tape thing works well for creep tuning also.It also works GREAT for sighting in your pins.I like to tape a criss cross with the tape and work on 1 adjustment at a time.

PABowhntr

I tend to agree TFOX. Excellent post addressing the issue of tuning from a variety of different perspectives. Lets see if I can find one of thoseHRAOP symbols for you.

Straightarrow

Actually, I use the criss-cross also. The horizontal line makes it much easier when fine tuning for nock height.

Greg / MO

Bump for a great thread.

m9a9g9i9c

So far I've been shooting all fletched arrows but last evening I shot a bare shaft and I didn't go straight at all, it ended up with its nock high up in the target.
I'm shooting easton st axxis 400 with 100gr fieldpoints and my bow has a DW of 54# at the moment, it's a tomkat.
I've been having trouble getting my rest in the right position cuz my fletched arrows weren't flying straight, is this still a rst problem or is it a spine problem as well ?

F.

I know I need to get me a papertune rig !

thx

Cougar Mag

Good thread. I've always group tuned as the last thing I do. To be honest I hardly every shoot through paper after walkback and group tuning. I find that shooting through paper after I have my best tune(group tuning) is generally a waste of time......just my opinion.

Arthur P

There are things one has done for so long they've become second nature. He does them without even thinking about them, and winds up forgetting that he didn't know anything about it at one time. So it is with group tuning. We talk so much about walkback vs paper tuning and never really get around to talking how to finish off either method properly.

Well done, TFOX.

Now we need to get you, Rick and Aussie to get into an in-depth discussion on creep tuning. It keeps getting mentioned but only in a fly-by kind of way. It's something I have to admit I've often heard about but never done.

davepjr71

French Tuning is another good method and it seems like you use the back end of that method for tuning.

Site in your 50-55 pin at 4 yds making sire you are dead on. Then go out to (50-55) and shoot groups. Adjust the rest in small increments (1/32"-1/16")in the opposite direction of your group to get to center. Go back to 4 yds and sight in again. Go back and forth a few times if needed.

Kanga

Gee thanks Art just throw me in the deep end to sink or swim.

Actually that is the one thing I was going to add to "T" mans post.

I know a lot of guys have not even heard of creep tuning.

What it basicly is, isshooting from the front of the valley on a dual cam or the Binary cam not so good on a cam & 1/2 or single cam cause they dont have the harness to make the adjustments.

Instestead of getting into a whole lot od detail in "T" mans thread I will write it up and make another post.

Then we can argue to our hearts content[8D]

Apart from that good post "T" man