OHbowhntr

Sounds like your in the same boat as me. I couldn't believe how far off my arrows were when I finally took my bow back. I believe that paper tuning has it's place, but I'm just not sure what it is. As for me, I'm going back to setting the bow with the nock point square and walking it back again when my targets thaw out. I was really well tuned as deer season started, this was one of 2 RH's I shot in 4 days from 32yds.

http://www.theoutdoorsforum.com/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=5381

WhitBri

Just wondering but have you spun test your arrows. I had a couple dozen of the stalker extremes and couldn't get proper arrow flight with bh's and paper tuned and found inconsistent tears. Turned out the arrows weren't straight and they were brand new. the .005 they stated was 1/4" on mine just horrible, I might of got a bad two batches but I would check yours if you aren't happy all I did was switch arrows and was in tune.

ranger56528

Back when...paper tuning was a good thing for adjusting nock point and also the arrow rest(up-down-left-right).But now with the drop away rests and WB about the only thing paper tuning is good for is getting your nock point set.
I paper tuned my 1st compound bow back in 83.From then on I just had someone watch how the arrow left and ajusted from there.

Bulzeye

I have to endorse Bareshaft Tuning and Walkback.
It can tell you so much more than paper.

When you can get fletched shafts and bare shafts to hit the same spot, you have proven that the arrow is not relying on your fletching to correct errors in flight quality. Period.

If they hit different places, then your fletch is having to correct for something that is adversly affecting the flight. There may be a slight difference in POI between the groups from point-blank range out to 40 yards due to thehigher drag on the fletched shaft.

For target shooting only, smallest groups is the goal, so this may not matter so much in that arena especially if you compete indoors without wind, but...
If you hunt with that bow, fixed blades will be greatly affected by tuning errors, and penetration will suffer with all hunting BHs due to lost energy wasted on the arrow's side-to-side or up-and-down oscillations.

Paper just does not give the whole story.

Don't worry at all about moving your sights.
They mean nothing in the world of proper arrow flight.
During tuning, sights are nothing but a tool to be used as a point of reference to insure that you are aiming at the same point with every shot so that you can properly evaluate the outcome.
After you are tuned up well, the sights may end up in a completely different spot and may have been all over the place while you made your adjustments. So what? You simply move your sights to align your sights picture with your now properly tuned bow. If you had to move your sights during tuning, they were in the wrong place to begin with.

OHbowhntr

Actually, I didn't find any of the 3 Dozen I bought that spin-tested bad. You must have gotten a couple of bad batches. The first 2 dozen, I installed the inserts, and Cabela's installed the inserts on the 3rd dozen, and all of them spun great. I actually had BH's and FP's together @ 40yds and pretty close even at 48 & 56yds(pins are set@v 24, 32,40, 48, and 56 because that gives me the safest "error-proof" hunting set-up), with both bows. So Idon'tbelieve it's the arrows. As mentioned above though, I was shooting at a slightly downward angle, and I believe you really need to be shooting perfectly perpendicular to the paper to tell anything anyway, butwalkback hasput me where I needed to be everytime, with my bows and some of the friends I've tried to help out. As far asnock point, I've always just squared the arrow to the string, and dropped the nock where appropriate so thatthe arrow is perfectlysquare, and then if I noticed any abnormalflight moved it a1/16 or 1/32 until it looked better.

I was just surprised how much difference it made with the sites. Actually, once I got things closer to where they were supposed to be, I think I should be ok. But I was just blown away that he was trying to move my nock point so high because of "what the paper was telling us." The sites were to the extreme point for the main bracket, so after some of the good parts of the tuning was done, I just had to pull the main bracket, flip it, lowering where the pin housing was a little, and got it pretty close. Unfortunately, like I said, it has been a deep freeze here ever since I was there, and I haven't had much opportunity to shoot, because those blocks of ice (aka targets) in my back yard make me a little apprehensive as to how the arrows may end up if I attempt to shoot them. When weather is a little better, I shoot at least 2-3 dozen shots a day, but since the deep freeze, I've only shot a few shots, and the targets are not overly generous about giving the arrows back.

Thanks for the helpful and encouraging comments guys.