ttltaxidermy

Imo, Not only should you get a release, but get a loop too. I used to shoot fingers and finally went to a release a couple of years ago, I was told these newer bows are designed around a release shooter, if that is true or not I personally couldn't say, but a release improved my accuracy at 40, 50, 60 yd shots. The loop will save on the bow serving, if your like me and shoot a lot it is worth the $1.50, it will affect your draw lenght about 1/2 an inch, I also went to blazer vanes this past deer season, I will not use anything else on my arrows. Idon't shoot straight vain, but a little offset. I can consistently put a group of arrows in athree inch circle, at 50 yrds. But it takes a lot of patience getting used tonew equipment and new products, justdon't get frustrated, keep with it and you'll get it figured out. I bought the Trykon last April, and fell in love. Also I recommenda drop away rest, get the right set up and the deer don't stand a chance. As far as a release I shoot a true fire X-caliber, the best out there imo, but you kneed to find what fits you the best and go with that. Too when you do get it tuned in, start shooting at 40 yards then go to fifty and work your way down to twenty, and you will see a drastic change in accuracy as your confidence gets better......Good luck..........ttl

OHbowhntr

If you throw a loop on it as was said above, yes, it makes it a 1/2 inch shorter. I shoot straight off of the string, and may have to get the serving re-done 2 times per year at about $7 per time. I've seen a guy knock 2 teeth out from a broken loop, so that scared me right away from getting one.

As far as your spine on your shaft, I didn't pay any attention, I saw you said something about they were 4.1 grains per inch, and I just assumed that was an error. If you are spined wrong, that will complicate matters also. And it may maim you. See pic

gibsonhoyt

Sorry, I was wrong on my 4.1 gpi comment I double checked my arrows and they are Carbon Excell 400 8.1gpi with that being said do you still think that I am under spined?

I dug out my cateloges and there are several 100 different kind of releases! It looks to me like the rope releases are not as good as the jaw ones, I also would think that I would want one that straps around my wrist so that I don't drop it from the stand. If I would adjust the caliper length to short and clipped on to my bow string then I would not have to adjust my draw length right? Do most of you clip on the the string or do you use somthing else?

I know I said this before...but, thanks again for the info I am learning a lot here!

OHbowhntr

The 400 are going to be right on the border of and maybe leaning towards to weak. For the money, the Cabela's Stalker Extreme Carbon Arrows are as good as I've found, and they are actually made by Easton/Beman same company now. And at $54.99 a dozen fletched, the price certainly is right. As far as releases go, I personally like a longer one, some guys prefer shorter, but especially for hunting, a wrist strap is a MUST. As far as loops go, I think most guys shoot a loop actually, but I just don't like them, plus if I'm trying to keep my eyes one a deer and attach the release to my string, it's much easier to hit a string than a loop. But opinions vary on that.

Editting: After looking at the Bass Pro website at the Carbon Excel arrows, I think they are real similar to what I shoot actually, only maybe a tiny bit lighter. Same straightness, same maker, similar appearance and weight, similar price. The nice thing about buying the ones I bought from Cabela's is that they cut and inserted them, and I didn't have to take them to someone to have that done. I just call and put in an order, and they send me what I want. I used to like BassPro better, but Cabela's customer service is much better now. Hope some of the information we're giving you is helping.

gibsonhoyt

Now for the draw length you guys are saying that it will make it a 1/2" shorter. Will I have to adjust my arrows? And my Vectrix XL is at 30" draw length will that change to 29 1/2" I am afraid I am going to have to learn how to shoot all over again.

I did a lot of research lastnight on releases and I think I am sold, I also think I am going to get some blazers put on my arrows. Just need to find the time to go down to the ol pro shop.

OHbowhntr

Get a full length arrow, and figure out where it comes on your rest. Just for safety, add 1" to where it ends up on your rest, that way, you can be sure they are cut right, with enough length. You can always cut off a little more, but you can never put it back. I learned that the hard way working construction!!! [X(]

Alpha Capo

keep in mind that the weight of the arrow has nothing to do with the spine of the arrow....they are 2 seperate things....

try dropping the #age of your bow down to 60lbs and and that will help your accuracy (you will loose some speed/flattness but thats overrated in my opinion especially at known distances) ...when shooting higher poundage bows(70# and up)everything mechanichal has to be tuned perfect(not unlike a high performance race car)

proper shooting form is more critical as well because everything is moving faster.....(i would think that to shoot a 70# compound and get 2 inch groups consistantly at 45 yards with 3 arrows...using fingers instead of a release you pretty much have to be a top professional calibre archer...and if you can do that you dont need advise from this forum... but if you are just an intremediate/ really good archer i would try to slow things down a bit and see how you do.)

what im getting at is for example i consider myself a average shooter among the bowhunters in the world....so i feel that i dont need a high speed barnburner setup making my form and bow/arrow tuning more critical than it already is...and when i feel ive stepped my game up to the next level ill leave my equipment behind and shoot a more advanced setup...right now i shoot a Martin Prowler SE at 58 lbs with a 28.5 inch draw....im in the process of switching from carbons back to Alums(easton superslam) so im going to be retuning myself in the spring.

experiment with your arrows and make sure your bow is aligned/tunedproperly... alot of bad things can happen at distances past 30 yards...especially when shooting fingers... change one thingat a time until youare happy with the results and move to the next thing....keep practicing to stay sharp during/after you getyourbowand arrows tuned...

the arrow is just as important as the bow....tune your compound first and then tune your arrow...thats the way i do it.. i look at the bow by itself as tuning in a broad perspective and arrow tuning as sortof a fine tune. once you geta close toperfect relationshipbetweenboth, you can tweak (ultra fine tune) little things on your bow and your arrows to get as close to perfect as possible ...

i am by no means a professional at bow setup so dont take what i say as gospel....i am learning for myself everytime i shoot and ive been shooting for well over a decade....this is just my experience and opinion.

Alpha Capo

i also recently have taken up Traditional archery (Bare bow shooting) and find it to help my focus/understanding greatly when it comes to the basics of archery asa whole... i also notice myself concentrating more on the arrow hitting the spot on the target....instead of worrying about if i have the right eqipment or not (dont get me wrong tuning is very important in this world as well, but once you get it set right you can forget about it and focus completely on shooting).... it has helped me become a better compound shooter....and has given me another very capable tool in my arsenal.