TFOX

You are basically speaking of "forgiveness" and I absolutely want the most forgiving setup as possible.


I believe the most forgiving setup is one that allows a bow to be properly centershot and allows it to paper tune as well.

IMO,if both are not possible,it is more important to have a bow that is set to centershot and compromise paper.You may have to tune a broadhead differently than fieldpoints but like I said,imo,it is more important to accuracy than paper.I do agree that some efficiency is lost.

Sometimes it is possible play with spine to achieve both,regardless of what a program or chart tells you to use.


Like I stated earlier,I like to paper tune and try about anything to get it right but for me atleast,centershot DIRECTLY relates to accuracy or forgiveness.


I have had no problems with the high end Hoyts of the past several years achieving both.

Maybe that is why I choose to shoot them as a staff bow through the shop.I could choose from about 4 different high endbows on the market.[8D]

Len in Maryland

No, I'm really talking about a lot more than forgiveness.

TFOX

That is why I said basically.

You were also getting into penetration and planingand I agree with you.IMO,Planing gets into the area of forgiveness.


This is getting into the technical side that I stated earlier was more than the average archer should worry about, isn't it?

game4lunch

EXTRA! . . . EXTRA!

24 hours since posting . . . and have already seen an improvement.
Am playing with grip.
Human error?! You bettcha. Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks.

To reiterate . . . I've been happy with the performance of my equipment, just always bugged that I never made a bullet hole on paper. It is winter now and I am looking for something to tinker with. "If you can't improve, you can't get better."

I was concerned that cutting these arrows to 27" might have stiffened the spine too much and was the primary culprit. So much conflicting info on the web. "Move rest right, move rest left". "Raise draw weight, lower draw weight". Use heavier points, use lighter points". The advice is all over the page. You guys have shed more light and have motivated me to examine those aspects I would have assumed were carved in stone.

Thanks.

TFOX

Now that it is the offseason,you can definately go ahead and explore ALL those options.


Make sure that you give yourself a chance to get comfortable with the new grip before making a final decision whether or not to shoot that way.After giving it a fare chance,if it doesn't work for you, don't be afraid to try something else.Don't use a grip that doesn't work for YOU just because it works on paper.


I had to change arrows up in spine about 3 spine sizes for a friend to get his bow to tune.After that,I had to make an offset cable quard.This was 3 sizes above what my program said.This was a very old bow that wasn't much to begin with.

After all this,it tuned perfect at several different distances.

Len in Maryland

Quote:

I have had no problems with the high end Hoyts of the past several years achieving both.

Maybe that is why I choose to shoot them as a staff bow through the shop.I could choose from about 4 different high endbows on the market.

Now that I understand where you're coming from, I can better understand why we would have problems communicating.

TFOX

Some bows are really difficult get get them to paper at center.I remember the old original Magnatec was almost impossible to centershoot.If I remember correctly,the fletching wouldn't even clear the riser if set to center.The old raptor was also a bear.I did get it close by changing some shims and adjusting the cam lean out but still wasn't perfect.


There are alot of tricks you can use and that was why I used the statement in one of my early post about getting too technical for most average archers.Like the things I did to the bow stated above.


If you have a bow that you have to set the rest way out to get good paper,I would still suggest playing with spine to be able to set it to center.If it won't tune like that I would suggest walk back tuning with whatever you choose to hunt with or get rid of it and get a bow that will tune.

game4lunch

Back to basics with paper tuning. I want my arrow coming out of the bow as straight and true as I can. Thus . . . the bullet hole. My target is 12' from me and even at that distance, you can clearly see the arrows sticking out of the target at an angle indicitive of a tail right tear. I would think that if I could "fix" things so that the arrows were sticking straight out of the target that my bows overall performance would be adjusted to it's maximum efficiency. Am I right?

TFOX . . . what do you mean "walk bck tuning?" ("Usually if everything is correct,your paper will be good after the walk back tuning.")

newman1

All i can say is that after my 1999 MagnaTec was" MACROTIZED"I had no problem with filling the freezer with venison....I really wish that every hunter out there would be lucky enough to have a "PRO SHOP" with the experiance and knowledge that i have come to know..It is very unfortunate that that the superstores have abolished most of the small businesses that have set the stage for the big corporate companies to succeed.I for one will "NOT" stand for company's such as Bass Pro to superceed stores in which i have the utmost in confidence in !!! LEN AND MACROTECH RULE !!!!!!!!!!!Give Lena call , he has customer's all over the country.Get 'MACROTIZED" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TFOX

game4lunch

PA. JAY Has a real good explanation to what it is on the technigue problem thread by dipsnort.


newman,I never said the bow wouldn't kill deer and couldn't be tuned.

I tuned a friends just fine.


When you can get a bow centershot AND shooting good paper,you get into an area of forgiveness and shootability that is almost impossible to explain.