What's the point in practicing with field tips?
#1
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After practicing all Summer with field tips, and grouping my arrows as tight as could be. I knew I was ready for a"Booner" to walk right out in front of me! So I thought! The other day I decided to practice shootingwith my broadheads. I usually don't shoot with them due to the fact that they seem to tear up every target I've ever used. Anyway, I was amazed to see the drastic difference in accuracy and precision with my Montec broadheads as opposed to my 100 grain field tips. I knew there was supposedly a little difference, but I never dreamed it would be as drastic as it was. After all Summer of dialing my pins in just right, I now was going to have to make more changes to my set-up.
So back to my original question in the "Subject". What's the point in practicing with field tips, if you can't hunt with them in the first place?
Are there any broadheads that seem tofly as true or close to that of a 100 grain field tip.Any advice wouldhelp!
So back to my original question in the "Subject". What's the point in practicing with field tips, if you can't hunt with them in the first place?
Are there any broadheads that seem tofly as true or close to that of a 100 grain field tip.Any advice wouldhelp!
#2
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I practice most of the year with field tips. That is so my form and anchor points become second nature. I want these to be correct and automatic. I don't want to have to think about them at the moment of truth. I want muscle memory to set my form and anchors.
I shoot 100gr Muzzys 3 blade and they have the same point of impact as my field tips. I also have 3 different targets and shoot BHs at times throughout the year. I don't use the Muzzy "practice" blades I use last years hunting blades so I know things will fly true if I do my part.
I shoot 100gr Muzzys 3 blade and they have the same point of impact as my field tips. I also have 3 different targets and shoot BHs at times throughout the year. I don't use the Muzzy "practice" blades I use last years hunting blades so I know things will fly true if I do my part.
#3
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The point is to practice on your form. You can't shoot groups the size of a quarter if you can't practice properly because you're constantly tearing up targets and replaceing dull and broken broadheads. Those definitely aren't cheap...the targets OR the broadheads. Practice on your form during the off season with field points. Before hunting season starts practice with the broadheads you will use and set your bow up for those broadheads.
#4
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Have you checked to see if your broadheads are properly tuned? Have you spun them to see if there is any wobble? Is it the same arrow and bh that you have been shooting?, also where are your bh hitting?....high,low etc
sorry to ask so many questions, but maybeone of these is a factor and you don't need to mess around adjusting you sights this late in the game
sorry to ask so many questions, but maybeone of these is a factor and you don't need to mess around adjusting you sights this late in the game
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
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In my opinion the only reason to use field tips is for safety and to not destroy targets so easily. If everyone tuned their bow for fixed blade broadheads and had to shoot such a setup in all conditons of wind, rain, twigs and other mitigating circumstances, we'd all be much better at designing better set-ups for hunting.
Target shooting with field tips does not prepare oneself for the special requirement of hunting with broadheads. In many respects it's a detriment. It encourages people to use arrows that are far too light, with way too little FOC and poorly tuned for ideal flight.
Target shooting with field tips does not prepare oneself for the special requirement of hunting with broadheads. In many respects it's a detriment. It encourages people to use arrows that are far too light, with way too little FOC and poorly tuned for ideal flight.
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
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A bow that's perfectly tuned today will not be perfectly tuned 2-3 months from now.It might shoot great with field points, but broadheads will greatly magnify any misadjustments that have worked into the system over the summer.
The arrows you shot all summer might well be worn out too. Even though they shoot fine with field points,broadheads will greatly magnify any spine or straightness issues they've developed. Contrary to popular belief, carbon arrows are not good forever. They don't bend but they do warp. And they are susceptable to spine degradation.
Buynew arrows and retune your bow when it's time to switch to broadheads.
The arrows you shot all summer might well be worn out too. Even though they shoot fine with field points,broadheads will greatly magnify any spine or straightness issues they've developed. Contrary to popular belief, carbon arrows are not good forever. They don't bend but they do warp. And they are susceptable to spine degradation.
Buynew arrows and retune your bow when it's time to switch to broadheads.
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Greenfield, IN
Posts: 953
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As stated abobe... broadheads magnify any tuning issues that you may have...
You have to tune your bow to get your field points and broadheads to hit the same spot. You can have an improperly tuned bow.. shoot field points all stacked together... then screw on broadheads and not hit the broad side of a barn. Not to mention... if the insert/broadhead are not straight w/ the arrow... nothing you do will make them group.When you add broadheads.. you are basically putting vanes on the front of your arrow... and if they are not straight.. they will steer you arrow wherever they are aimed. Also the more spin you can get out of your arrow.. the straighter it will fly due to stabilization. Feathers stabilize better than vanes... Helical stabilizes better than straight or offset.
You have to tune your bow to get your field points and broadheads to hit the same spot. You can have an improperly tuned bow.. shoot field points all stacked together... then screw on broadheads and not hit the broad side of a barn. Not to mention... if the insert/broadhead are not straight w/ the arrow... nothing you do will make them group.When you add broadheads.. you are basically putting vanes on the front of your arrow... and if they are not straight.. they will steer you arrow wherever they are aimed. Also the more spin you can get out of your arrow.. the straighter it will fly due to stabilization. Feathers stabilize better than vanes... Helical stabilizes better than straight or offset.
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Western New York
Posts: 639
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kbacon is rightif inserts are tweaked even the slightest bit. There is no telling where your broadheads will end up. Before I got my bow tuned to perfection I had similar troubles, spend the money and take the bow to a pro and get it tuned right. If this is not an option sometimes I found by
positioning the head differently you can get a little more accuracy.Line up blades with vane try a shot, then move to center of vane you get the point good luck hope all works out
positioning the head differently you can get a little more accuracy.Line up blades with vane try a shot, then move to center of vane you get the point good luck hope all works out