CAJUNBOWHNTR

Here's the readers digest version.A sons buddy comes over and said he read on the net about bareshaft tuning and wanted some input.He's shooting a 2002 patriot 60# 27" DL easton 500 epic arrows at 27" and a 100 grain head, whisker bisquit rest and blazers.His bare shafts are hiiting nock right and grouping left of his fletched shafts.This would normally indicate a stiff spine.According to the charts he is border line weak spined.I looked his bow over,centershot is at 3/4' and looks close.We checked his centershot with a walkback tune and he's dead on.He's also grouping BH's and FP's at 30 yds.

Now the first time he shot his bare shaft the arrow was 6 inches left and bad nock right at 15 yds.I turned the nock a little and we got it down to 3 inches or so.I just cant believe he is overspined.I suspect his arrow could be so weak that it could be hitting the bisquit and sending it tail right.We checked for contact and did'nt see any.I'm kinda stumped,this kid can stack his FP's and BH's at 30yds.Any ideas???


CB

Paul L Mohr

Bare shaft tuning is really for finger shooters and takes into acount for archers paradox, which is the string predictably moving from side to side at the release. Using a mechanical release and even more so a loop negates this side to side movement.

What this means is there is no cut and dry method for tuning when using a release, be it bareshafting or paper tuning. You just need to try different things and see what works. What the arrow will actually do on release will depend on the type of release, how you anchor at full draw and how much torque you have when you shoot.

I say if he walk back tunes, group tunes and broad head tunes and everything is the way he wants leave it alone!! Don't go backwards when you tune a bow. In my opinion the correct order for tuning would be to set the bow up, then paper tune if you want to in order to rule out fletching contact or severe missadjustment of centershot or nocking point, then bareshaft tune. After that either group tune or broad head tune, depending on what the intended goal is. Once you are happy with that do not go backwards again unless something changes.

If it's a hunting rig and he is happy with the broad head groups put the wrenches away and practice! In my opinion people spend WAY to much time worrying about tuning a bow and no where near enough time actually conentrating on shooting one well.

Paul

CAJUNBOWHNTR

I certainly agree with that statement.That is pretty much what I told him.If he can group his BH's and FP's together at 30-40 yds I'd call it good.I was just surprised to see that his bare shaft was flying the way it was(stiff reaction) when I just can't see how that could be,if anything he should be underspined with a 500 defelection shaft.

The only other thing I would suspect is idler or cam lean but I could'nt detect any.


CB

JOE PA

I would agree that the arrow is not stiff, but I've gotten nock right results with weak arrows before. It is quite possible that the arrow is "reacting" off the WB hole, as this can happen easily, whether it is a vertical or horizontal thing. I also would leave the darn thing alone if he is shooting it the way you say. Also would agree with Paul, it is easy to worry too much about tuning the bow, and too little about tuning the archer. The way I'm feeling right now, I really think I will not seriously even consider another bow next year, and concentrate on tuning myself!

Sniper151

Bare shaft tuning will work well with any set up. Your center shot may be right on when the bow is relaxed, but when at full draw there may be cam lean or a slight turning of the limbs. Try fine adjustments on the rest starting by moving it in towards the riser. The arrows seem to be matched to this shooters draw length and weight.

BGfisher

I do heartily disagree that bare shafting is only for finger shooting. I use it often. I do not adhere to the theory that it's the best tuning method. There are several good ones and I often combine them.

Cajun, we've talked before and I don't know what you think of my opinions, etc, but here is something that many people do not pay attention to. You have Easton's tuning guide if I remember correctly. Read the next to last paragraph at the bottom of page #13. It says something to the effect that "release shooters may get an opposite reaction" or something to that effect.

To that end I would suggest a real quick check for spine by turning a full tuen OFF the limb bolts and see if his broadheads straighten out some. Of course if they do it only proves that his arrows are underspined and there are several ways to correct it. Get stiffer arrows, use lighter points,, vanes instead of feathers. You know the drill.

But I'm pretty much a wise ass and say just adjust the weight to where things are the best and shoot it that way. If ya gotta drop 3# in weight so what. Ya do what works.

Hey, how's your boy doing with his setup?

Barry

Paul L Mohr

I never said bareshaft tuning was ONLY for finger shooters. It was developed for finger shooters and all the information you will find on it applies to finger shooting. You cannot apply it the same way to release users. The same goes for paper tuning. Sometimes you need to do the opposite of what seems correct in order to get it to work.

That doesn't mean it doesn't work, I use it quite often. I just don't use it the same way the manual describes it. Do what you need to do to make it better.

Paul

CAJUNBOWHNTR

Barry, the kid that came by, his BH's are flying with his fp's and grouping well.What I'm thinking is that his arrows are underspined and that by adding the weight of the fletching to the rear it is increasing his spine to the point were his arrows are flying good.That ,and the extra stability added by the fletching.

My son has not really resolved his issues but thanks for asking.He's starting a new job,first full time job out of school, and is very busy.His bow is shooting good enough,just something is not right with the center shot being so far outand he has'nt had the time to sort it out.




CB