Trykon broadhead issues
09-01-2006, 08:00 AM
#11
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 868
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
If moving the rest up or down seems to move both the FP and BHs the same amount (they stay 3" apart) then I would have to say you either have a vane contact issue or the cam timing is slightly off.
The Hybrid cams while being very tolerant to string and cable strech have absoloutely horrible nock travel in the last 2" of the power stroke IF the timing is off. They also don't need to be off very much to cause a real problem.
At this point, I would go back to basics. Check out this thread on AT (http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391)
It has what I consider to be the best procedure for setting up the timing on the cam and a half bows (cam and a half, spiral cams, zephyr cams, wheel and a half) it will work for them all.
Get your cam timing perfect and then make another run at the broadhead flight issue. I have or had 7 cam and a half bows and I was able to get each and every one in perfect timing with this procedure. You will need access to a bow press along with a draw weight scale and a draw board to do this correctly.
If you don't have access to a draw board, you can use a standard bicycle hook and screw it into a rafter or truss in your ceiling. You then hook your D-Loop on it and pull it to full draw. The cams are almost perfectly at eye level when you do this.
The Hybrid cams while being very tolerant to string and cable strech have absoloutely horrible nock travel in the last 2" of the power stroke IF the timing is off. They also don't need to be off very much to cause a real problem.
At this point, I would go back to basics. Check out this thread on AT (http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391)
It has what I consider to be the best procedure for setting up the timing on the cam and a half bows (cam and a half, spiral cams, zephyr cams, wheel and a half) it will work for them all.
Get your cam timing perfect and then make another run at the broadhead flight issue. I have or had 7 cam and a half bows and I was able to get each and every one in perfect timing with this procedure. You will need access to a bow press along with a draw weight scale and a draw board to do this correctly.
If you don't have access to a draw board, you can use a standard bicycle hook and screw it into a rafter or truss in your ceiling. You then hook your D-Loop on it and pull it to full draw. The cams are almost perfectly at eye level when you do this.
09-01-2006, 08:43 AM
#12
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 29
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
Hi guys ~I am new to this board.
98Redline is right ~ that thread is the best process for getting your bow timed. I had the same problem with my Trykon XL . First off , it would only shoot bullet holes with the center-shot set a little past 1 1/8 " . I was using a NAP/Hoyt Smart Rest.Even shooting bullets with the FP's, the broadheads were not even close. This is after many hours of tuning at my house and the pro shop that I go to.Yesterday I switched my rest to the old trusty QT3000 , and in two shots had bullet holeswith broadheads very close to FP's. The center-shot is at a little over 13/16 . There seems to be something amiss with some Trykons and fall-aways. Hope this helps and good luck.
Blessings
98Redline is right ~ that thread is the best process for getting your bow timed. I had the same problem with my Trykon XL . First off , it would only shoot bullet holes with the center-shot set a little past 1 1/8 " . I was using a NAP/Hoyt Smart Rest.Even shooting bullets with the FP's, the broadheads were not even close. This is after many hours of tuning at my house and the pro shop that I go to.Yesterday I switched my rest to the old trusty QT3000 , and in two shots had bullet holeswith broadheads very close to FP's. The center-shot is at a little over 13/16 . There seems to be something amiss with some Trykons and fall-aways. Hope this helps and good luck.
Blessings
09-01-2006, 09:13 AM
#13
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 868
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
The center shot on my Trykon XL is set at .842" (.8125 is 13/16) and the bow shoots awesome. I am using a drop away (Vapor Trail Limb Driver)
One of the biggest problems I have seen with drop away rests and hoyt bows in general is when setting up with the arrow in the center of the berger button, there is normally not enough clearance for the fletching as the arrow passes over the drop away in the down position. I have yet to see a Hoyt that worked well set up in this position. For a shoot through type rest, you can get away with this as the fletch normally passes between the prongs.
thespyhunter: If you are looking to get your smartrest set up, try moving the rest and nock point up so the bottom of the arrow is even with the center of the berger button. The guy I hunt with uses the same setup as you (Trykon XL + smart rest) and we had to move his arrow position up to get adequate fletch clearance.
Another thing to be very cautious about. If you are using one of the NAP/Hoyt smart rests or a QT4000 AND one of the Hoyt 2 piece quivers (6 arrow for sure, not sure about the 4 arrow version) The arrow in the #3 spot from the rear of the bow will contact the brass knurled knob used to adjust the centershot. This will prevent the rest from dropping fast enough or all the way and will result in severe tuning problems....as you can imagine.
One of the biggest problems I have seen with drop away rests and hoyt bows in general is when setting up with the arrow in the center of the berger button, there is normally not enough clearance for the fletching as the arrow passes over the drop away in the down position. I have yet to see a Hoyt that worked well set up in this position. For a shoot through type rest, you can get away with this as the fletch normally passes between the prongs.
thespyhunter: If you are looking to get your smartrest set up, try moving the rest and nock point up so the bottom of the arrow is even with the center of the berger button. The guy I hunt with uses the same setup as you (Trykon XL + smart rest) and we had to move his arrow position up to get adequate fletch clearance.
Another thing to be very cautious about. If you are using one of the NAP/Hoyt smart rests or a QT4000 AND one of the Hoyt 2 piece quivers (6 arrow for sure, not sure about the 4 arrow version) The arrow in the #3 spot from the rear of the bow will contact the brass knurled knob used to adjust the centershot. This will prevent the rest from dropping fast enough or all the way and will result in severe tuning problems....as you can imagine.
09-01-2006, 09:40 AM
#14
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 29
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
98Redline ~ were you able to get the Smart Rest set close to the 3/4 - 13/16 center-shot ? I had mine set up that way, and the arrows hit where I aimed.The problem was I had a 1 1/2 right tear that would not go away. Eastons guide said that was unusual , and all I could do was move the rest left.
09-01-2006, 10:10 AM
#15
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 868
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
The impossible to clear up right tear with the Trykon is normally attributed to the top cam leaning just a little bit.
Hold an arrow flat aganst the side of the top cam. If it does not run parallel to the string then you will need to adjust your yoke (yes you can twist one side of the floating yoke) to get your cam straight. This will most likely clear up the right tear problem. It seems to be a pretty common malady for the Trykons.
Hold an arrow flat aganst the side of the top cam. If it does not run parallel to the string then you will need to adjust your yoke (yes you can twist one side of the floating yoke) to get your cam straight. This will most likely clear up the right tear problem. It seems to be a pretty common malady for the Trykons.
09-01-2006, 10:31 AM
#16
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 29
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
Thanks for the info 98redline. I just tried the arrow on the cam trick, and the arrow crosses over the sting right at the grip area. That is some serious cam lean. I think I'll try to get that fixed.
09-07-2006, 05:13 AM
#19
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 29
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
98Redline ~ no dice brother.
I have twisted and twisted. No difference in the cam lean. BUT ~ I did figure out how to fix it. I should recieve my new Vapor Trail string and cable set Tuesday
.I have the Vtec ready to go for season, so I will take my time and use Javi's tuning guide and will get the cams straight and get rid of the right tear. Thanks for the input.
Blessings and good hunting
I have twisted and twisted. No difference in the cam lean. BUT ~ I did figure out how to fix it. I should recieve my new Vapor Trail string and cable set Tuesday
.I have the Vtec ready to go for season, so I will take my time and use Javi's tuning guide and will get the cams straight and get rid of the right tear. Thanks for the input.Blessings and good hunting
09-07-2006, 10:43 AM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 12
RE: Trykon broadhead issues
All right guys here is the story. I used the supplied tuning information and the bow is in "perfect time" draw stop and upper cable are right on in the hooter shooter.
The good news is it feels and shoots the best it has since I purchased it. The bad news is it is still shoting braodheads low but nw only about 1-2"s which is bearable. I changed rests to a whisker biscuit and intend on trying to adjust it to see if it helps improve things.
Right now though the bow has a grea feel and I may just put up with it being low.
Pat
The good news is it feels and shoots the best it has since I purchased it. The bad news is it is still shoting braodheads low but nw only about 1-2"s which is bearable. I changed rests to a whisker biscuit and intend on trying to adjust it to see if it helps improve things.
Right now though the bow has a grea feel and I may just put up with it being low.
Pat