mauser06

ok i went to adjustmy rest to the left because my broadheads hit about 3-4 inches to the right. thing is my rest is maxed out to the left!! and my sights are maxed out to the right...now i duno what to do. my groups are great..just a little right with the broadheads....worse comes to worse ill aim a little right of where i want to hit..but dont wanna play that game...any helpful tips or hints?? and yes ive read the Easton tuning guide..

the bow is a reflex highlander set at 28" draw and 67lbs. arrows are easton epic 400s, heads are 100gr. rest is a nap quick tune 1000. any advice, tips, hints etc?? im lost....i dont wanna goto a proshop and pay them to tell me oh your arrows are wrong or oh try a lighter head or something to that extent......

Paul L Mohr

How long are you arrows and do you know how fast it will shoot with a specific weight arrow?

Paul

Paul L Mohr

If they are 28 inch arrows I show them being weak. I show a 28 inch epic 300 with a 125 grn tip being a good spine for your bow.

If this info is correct it would explain your problems. If you keep moving your rest one way or the the other and it has very little or no impact on getting your arrow closer together when bare shaft tuning or broad head tuning chances are your spine is off.

Even if you dropped your bow to 60 lbs I still show it being weak. However you could try it and see if it gets better.

Paul

Rob/PA Bowyer

The problem I have is why in the world would your rest be maxed out to the left, especially for center shot?

The fact that your arrows are hitting right could directly be because your rest is too far right and out of tune. Your broadheads could be planing because of that.

I'd retune the bow getting your rest at center shot and start over...you can't keep moving a rest left and right to fix a broadhead point of impact problem. There is another issue at hand. First and foremost the bow needs to be tuned, then you can work on dialing in the broadheads.

mauser06

my arrows actually seem long to me..right around 29 inches i believe...heck i noticed i can go BACKWARDS with the rest and shoot even smaller arrows...but they hang off the rest a good 1-2 inches....my arrows weigh 388grs with 4 inch feathers on them. they shoot right around 257fps.

what do you suggest paul?? could i have the shop shave off 2 inches?? would that help?? thanx for the help....ughhhh its almost crunch time too...i leave for school sunday...let me know what you think. im not gunna lie i ordered from huntersfriend. i kinda think they left the arrows a bit on the long side incase my draw was too short...but my draw is perfect...i really think my arrows are long..so cutting off 1-2 inches would increase my spine correct?? would it be enough to help?? thanx

mauser06

thanx rob i just might have to have it retuned...i thought it was odd that it was maxed out left too..but i noticed to go much closer ill be hitting the riser with my feathers...

i looked at my over hang on my arrows at full draw...as they are now i can shave about an inch off...but can also move my rest about an inch toward the string.....so i can get away with 2 inches i think...

i dont know why or whats causing this.....paper tuning must be decieving because i had perfect tears out to 20yds...i bought the bow brand new....maybe everything just broke in or something??

let me know what you guys think i can swing by a shop tomarrow...i just fear getting ripped off or suckered...oh buy a drop away....shoot blazers not them feathers...you need new broadheads them muzzys are junk....buy new arrows because yours are wrong etc....so i want to get to the bottom of this with your guys' help before i head to a shop so i know what is right before i walk in the door. ill definently let them help me..i know you guys dont know everything without seeing me shoot, but i dont want suckered......thanx guys

Paul L Mohr

Measure your arrows for me. I need the length from the groove in the nock to the end of the shaft (don't include the tip length).

I don't think it's going to matter though, because my program showed the being weak at just about any usable length.

If your rest is set up so the arrow contacts the rest right above your grip and the arrow is 1 inch past that then that would be the correct arrow length and be around 27-28 inches. If that is the case you have weak arrows according to my software, but I will re figure it with that speed and arrow weight.

Paul

mauser06

they measured 29 inches from nock groove to the end of the shaft.

Paul L Mohr

Ok, I did some more figuring based on that speed and arrow weight. I get that weight for those arrows putting them at around 30 inches long, which is for sure under spined, even after calibrating for your set up.

However I get that if you cut your arrows to 27 inches they should be pretty close to being spined right. You may have to raise or lower your draw weight a little to get them perfect, but it's better than being way weak.

And if you are shooting a 28 inch draw length a 27 inch arrow should not be hard to pull off, it's about what you should be shooting anyway.

Don't let the shop talk you into anything you don't need. Just tell them you want to cut your arrows down and see what happens from there.

Paul

ButchA

Mauser,

The NAP Quiktune 1000 can be even further adjusted out by unscrewing the first allen screw that holds the whole prong assembly. Unscrew it and shift the whole thing over to the next hole.

Then you'll notice the NAP Quiktune to be waaaaaaay out there away from the riser, so you'll have to get your centershot back aligned.

This is a last effort to try before going to a pro shop. ....It's an idea, that's all.

Good luck!

Edit: Mauser... check out this file from New Archery. Look at "Figure 3" in the Adobe Acrobat file, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

http://www.newarchery.com/documents/200606024831.pdf