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help again....

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Old 08-22-2006, 05:43 PM
  #11  
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Default RE: help again....

thank paul ill head there tomarrow.....ill have them cut 6 and refletch them while they are at it....id like to have 6 perfect arrows for the season. my feahters took a beating in around 1500 shots. i just been rough on them. one passed through a hole in my bag and ripped of, cut one with the broadhead...bent up a few others. if the 27 inchers are shooting better then ill have my other 5 done for practice..ill let you know what happens

thank you for all the help i appriciate it.....just dont wanna be talked into nonsense when i go in there...next year my setup will change....arrows, rest ..maybe sites...so i dont wanna dump much cash into it right now if its not needed
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:47 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: help again....

butch...we must been posting at the same time...i checked that....im ALREADY in that far left hole!! im as far from the riser as humanly possible with that rest!! i think the problem is huntersfriend was new to using easton arrows. they were using goldtips for almost all their setups, but stopped right before i placed my order and went with easton epics on the highlander. ill have them check the tune tomarrow too.
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:30 PM
  #13  
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Wow... that is weird! [&:] On my Highlander (exact same as yours - except lefty), I have the NAP Quiktune 1000 setup on the far allen screw hole too, but I am not maxed out with the centershot alignment.

I shoot Beman ICS Hunter 340's with 100 grain tips. I don't have any problems with my broadheads and field tips not hitting together. The only thing I get is just a tiny bit of cock vane contact from the Quiktune rest and there is nothing I can do about it. My centershot is set, my arrows are grouping together, and I checked everything with a "walkback tune" and I'm dead on.

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Old 08-23-2006, 12:11 PM
  #14  
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see butch your shooting 340s..thats a stiffer spine then my 400s i think? im going to the shop at 530 tonight to have them all cut and refletched. should hopefully get them closer..i think my spine is weak and it causes my fieldpoints to go right of center as well.....thats why to get it to shoot straight the centershot is maxed out. hopefully 2 inches will cure it. i loosened my rest and moved it all the way back and i can go down to 27 no problem. i think huntersfriend left them long incase my draw was off, and they dont know easton arrows yet. i hope that 2 inches helps...now i cant get the though of having them refletched in the all mighty blazers....but i like my feathers....but i beat them up in short time..already steamed them once and they are looking ragged...plus 2 or 3 are totally smashed/ripped off from going into holes in my targets.....hmmm decisions decisions....
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Old 08-23-2006, 01:50 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: help again....

ahh sitting here passing the time till the shop opens i was browsing eastons site and found they have a program for shaft selecting. i downloaded it and ran it with 29 inch shafts. i should have 340s for a 29 inch shaft. if i go down to 27inches it says ill be right on with the 400s i have.

i am still deciding blazers or stay with feathers....i love the feathers...just till i refletch my own i think its smarter to go with a vane for the duribility factor....sure they pass through a target they will still be ruined..but when i am shoving them in the case, dropping them on the ground etc they wont be sooo beat up like my feathers have gotten. i just hope the shop can follow my desires....im thinking cut them to 27 inches...wrap them and put blazers on them for the time being...at 27 inches the shafts wiegh 221 grs so i can probably use the little bit extra weight of blazers and wraps...321 with my heads. 15grs for blazers thats 336, a wrap is like 10 thats 346grs. i think thatll be good. and my speed might increase by loosing the 2 inches...i think i just might try the all mighty blazers...if they have them....i dont know if they have them...what colors i can pick etc.....ill be refletching my own after this fall....
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:52 PM
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Default RE: help again....

If you are beating up feathers what makes you think you will not beat up a vane, espcially a blazer? Feathers are much more forgiving in that regard. You can mess a feather up pretty badly and still have it fly good, where as you put one nick or hole in a vane and it will be loud and effect the way the arrow flies. I shoot feathers for the exact reasons you are thinking of switching to vanes.

I recently switched to blazers, while they work well I know have two arrows missing a vane. They are so stiff that when I hit them with another arrow it took the whole vane off! Of course maybe if I used something better than super glue to fletch them I would have better luck with that. But, hey it's cheap and fast.

Vanes are heavier and work well in wet weather, and they are cheaper in most cases. They are not more forgiving than feathers in any other regard at normal distances.

I have eastons shaft selection program as well. And while it's better than a chart or online calculator it still leaves a lot out of the equation. When you were figuring it with the 29 inch arrows how did you tell it what draw length you had? You didn't because it bases that info off from the arrow length. And how does it know how efficient your bow is, or how much weight you have on the string?

And if you have a 28 inch draw I don't think you should have had to move the rest back, unless you had really far forward, like in front of your hand. If you did have to move it back it should have only been about half an inch. Are the prongs still over your shelf, or behind it? If they are behind it I think your draw length is longer than 28 inches.

The proper AMO length arrow for a 28 inch draw would be 27 1/4 inches, that would put the arrow 1 inch in front of the rest if it were set up properly.

I would love to see a pic of how the rest is mounted on the bow if you can swing that.

Keep in mind that this arrow spine thing is not an exact science, even with the fancy smancy software. It is still just a guestimate, just a more accurate one. There may always be some amount of fine tuning that needs to be done one way or another.

Paul
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:39 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: help again....

Paul and Mauser...

Picture coming up. I'm going to use my wife's digital camera and try to get a photo of my lefty Reflex Highlander for you guys.

Butch A.
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:00 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: help again....

Here ya go... This is a lefty Reflex Highlander with a NAP Quiktune 1000 rest and a VBG Camelback Pendulum:



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Old 08-23-2006, 06:31 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: help again....

well....i had them all cut to 27...and decided to go with blazers for this season. figured it couldnt hurt...i have nothing to base my expirience on so i figured id try them and see what i like best since they needed refletched. not ALL of them needed refletched. and the shootable ones still shot ok...but some were pretty ragged and some were cut off or really beat. so i can see first hand what i like. the arrows cut to 27" give me a half inch over hand with my rest backed out the whole way. i will adjust it more forward tomarrow when i get the arrows back. but 29 inch arrows with a 28inch draw was a little long WITH the rest maxed out FORWARD. we will see tomarrow.

looking at my rest compared to butch's i think mine is set proper now. its still over the shelf even though its back its full adjustment. hopefully the arrows are done early tomarrow and i can give you guys the test results....thank you all for the help. ill let you know the results tomarrow hopefully



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Old 08-23-2006, 06:57 PM
  #20  
 
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Default RE: help again....

My blazers fly great, you won't be dissapointed in that respect. They are just STIFF is all. But that is what makes them work so well.

Paul
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