slee

I'm having a hard time getting broadheads to hit where my field points do. I shoot a 2004 Bowtech Patriot VFT, Gold Tip XT 5575, 125gr Montecs. I put a new Winner's Choice on my Bowtech this Summer. I got it close to bullet hole on paper, then just shot a bunchto break in the string and get peep set. Went back to paper andgot it slight tear high, but decided it was close enough to tune broadheads to field points. Well, BH were nearly a foot lower than FP@ 40 yds, so I moved the rest up. It tightened the groups some(now 8" apart @ 40yds), but they are still lower than FPs, and the rest ishigher than the nock causing the arrow to point slightly up. BH arrow flight is good with 4" groups@ 40yds and I'm hitting where I'm aiming, but not with FPs. I'm OK with leaving it and being satisfied for this season, but should I be concerned over the upward angle of the arrow on the rest? If I try to match FPs, it's only going to get worse. Should I move it back to the original setting and do bareshaft? This is something I'll likelywork onin October after elk season, but if anyone has a fairly easy suggestion, please let me know and I'll give it a go this week.

5 shot

http://www.broadheadtests.com/TUNING.html

This may help you, it's hard to say for sure though without being there to see for myself.

GGBH

To set center shot I took two arrows one on the rest in the raised position and the other on the right hand side of the riser. I measured the distance between the arrows close to the string and out near the points then I adjusted the sight until the measurement was the same on both ends of the two arrows. Went to the paper tuner and shot one shot--- PERFECT BULLETHOLE. Sometimes it takes a little fine tuning to get PBH,s but it make it a lot easier. Next step would be WALKBACK TUNING.

GGBH

ijimmy

You may be able to fix that by tiller tuneing your bow .
But first I would make sure your cam was in proper time .
Someone on here will know where that is with your cam .
Cam timeing drasticly affects up-down nock travel on a single cam bow .

slee

Thanks. Tiller will bemy next attempt. Iplan tomake a list of all the current settings on the rest and limb bolts, then move the rest back to it's original position and play with tiller to see if that solves the problem. Worse case scenario, I move everything back to where it is now and go hunting.

Dryridge

GGBH, Sorry but I can't grasp what it is you did.....I can't figure out the arrows or why a sight adjustment would change anything in regards to the arrow as it sets in the bow???? I am intrigued by any archery tuning knowlege though....can you draw a picture for this dumb country boy?

KodiakArcher

Did you replace both the string and cable? If not, I suspect that your cam is either over or under rotated because of a tight new string and an old stretched cable. Did your draw weight change when you added the new string? Replacing the cable (or twisting it up until your draw weight and brace height equals what it was) may solve the problem.

slee

Yep, I replaced the cable at the same time as the string. I haven't checked the poundage since I replaced them, but my draw length is the same as it was, so I would think the cable is right. As far as timing, I'll doublecheck the timing mark on the cam and make sure it's still where it is suppose to be later this afternoon.

gibblet

man, i can solve this. stop trying! walk back tune with broadheads, then tiller tune it with broadheads. if you're broadheads are flying true - who cares where your field points hit? its a hunting bow, not a target bow.

TradTech

slee - Paper tuning is only a starting point. Bullet holes are great to see and show that you're in the ballpark.

Next at 20 yds., do a rough sight in shooting a group. Next make a horizontal line on your target and shootthat horizontal line w/fp's. Shoot the horizontal line to check your nock set for proper position. Next shoot a vertical line to check your rest position insuring it is set correctly. The bullet hole you're seeing shooting at 6-9 feet shows that your arrow is reacting correctly at that and only that distance. By shooting and starting this group tune will show what's happening down range. Remember it's just a starting point and group tuning will fine tune your bow/arrow.

Once you've achieved proper nock set and rest position, screw on a bh.

Follow the same steps as stated for the fp's.

Always adjust the horizontal impact BEFORE the vertical.

If your bh's are hitting low, lower your nock set by 1/16" until you bring your bh's to the horizontal line.
Conversely, if you're hitting high, raise your nock set by 1/16" until you achieve results.

Make the vertical adjustments to bring the bh's to the fp's by moving the rest in 1/32" increments if necessary.

If you're hitting to the right of the fp's, move the rest to the left and visa-versa if impact is to the left.

Once you're done with that, shoot your fp's to check the effect on your tune. Remember you're shooting to improve groups for both fp's and bh's.

If you're a spot shooter and can hold dime size groups with fp's consistantly, you can demand the same performance from your bh's. In other words, your bh groups should minimally group as well as what you can consistantly shoot with your fp's. Don't expect more from your equipment than what you can personally deliver on a consistant basis.

Good luck.