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Old 11-08-2002, 11:31 PM
  #11  
Typical Buck
 
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Default RE: your opinoin

I shot a Mathews FX at 67#@28" draw. Easton 2213 XX75 aluminum arrows with 100 gr field points and Thunderheads (229fps and 56 ft-lb KE). I don't dare shoot a field point and a broadhead at the same spot out to 30 yards. Just haven't finished tweaking the 40 yard shots.

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Old 11-09-2002, 11:42 AM
  #12  
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Old 11-09-2002, 05:13 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: your opinoin

I am new to bowhunting, however, I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist LOL. I shoot a Mathews Legacy with a release. I use ics camo hunters at 402 grains and 100 grain muzzy 3 blades. My rest is a drop away. I have found that the center shot on my bow greatly affects how my broadweads and field tips group. With my bow tuned properly my field tips and my broadheads group together from 10 to 60 yds. Of course the groups are not as tight at 60 as they are at 20 but that is me....LOL. At 60 I routinely get 4-5 inch groups with mixed tipped arrows. At shorter ranges the groups get progressivly smaller. I do not align my broadhead blades as I have found thru experimentation that it doesn't make any difference at least on my set up. My 2 cents for what its worth.
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Old 11-09-2002, 10:23 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: your opinoin

I truly don't know what the real answer is. So far in my life, which equals 54 years of shooting a lot of different brand bows, and different models within a brand, I have had two bows that shot identical with broadheads, and practice points. What is weird is that these two bows I am referring to were "real short" axle to axle length bows >>> one was a Clearwater Ultramag 33", and the other is my present bow a 34" PSE Enforcer. I always tune my bows the same whether for 3D, or hunting, and that is with a slightly high left tear through paper. I am right handed.

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Old 11-10-2002, 04:34 AM
  #15  
Typical Buck
 
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Default RE: your opinoin

Some good posts above that are partially correct, tho they did not take it to the next step in their individual tuning process. Here is the deal....

Broadhead tipped arrows should hit the exact same spot as field tips if tuned correctly. It can be done, and is done if one takes the time to do it.

First, you must tune your field points till they are grouping excellently. You can't skip this part and expect everything to flow smoothly, it will take you much longer in the overall process. Tuning takes TIME, and patience. Put some time aside for it without interruption.

After shooting the field tips and finding a good tight group, shoot a group with broadheads close to the same weight, making sure you KNOW you shot a good group, and also before you do that the broadhead is spinning true on the shaft, sometimes shots will &quot;plane-out&quot; due to the fact that the broadhead was not properly installed. Only takes a slight wobble with fixed-blades to throw them out, mechanicals of course will be a little more forgiving in this respect, but have their own inherent problems which is another story.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> See where the impact points of the broadhead-tipped arrows were in relation to the fieldpoints. Most of you guys are saying &quot;left&quot; in this thread, which indictates stiffness on the broadhead-tipped arrows part. Give the limbs a crank to add a pound or two and help break spine, or throw on a slightly heavier broadhead,(I know, it's another $20, but it's worth it) then shoot another group of each of the field tipped arrows, and the broadhead-tipped arrows. Check their relationship, and continue the tuning process of SMALL adjustments (weight, nocking point, centershot) until you get both flying the same. Once finished this will mean your bow and equipment has been properly tuned for all applications, and both will hit the same spot every time.

All broadheads are not the same, they are not parabolic like a field tip, and like IMN3D stated above, will not fly exactly the same simply by weight.(even mechanicals) Sometimes it takes a little time, patience, and experimentation with different heads to get things tuned correctly, but knowing that the bow is tuned to the finest degree is worth the effort, and will give you the utmost confidence when you are ready to step into the stand. Good shooting, Pinwheel 12





Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 11/10/2002 05:47:37
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Old 11-10-2002, 06:33 AM
  #16  
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Default RE: your opinoin

I've been lucky in having good success at getting broadheads to hit with field points. As Pinwheel says, it's a process that takes time and effort. Effort well expended, IMO. It's nice to practice with both tips, and not have to compensate. For my setups I've found a slightly stiff arrow worked well. Groups are much better than the &quot;properly&quot; spined arrows I was using. I think some bows inherently prefer a stiffer arrow than recommended.
bassmaster, could it be the BowTechs are faster and form flaws come more into play? I shoot a Mighty Mite (270 fps) and a P38 dual cam (295 fps), and don't have this problem. Both shoot field points and broadheads equally well. I do feel, however, when I lapse the result is magnified by the extra speed. &quot;i have no problem with this i an a small man. shoot 32.5 draw.&quot; You are kidding, right?<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Typo?

Phil.
&quot;Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot.&quot;<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
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