Arrows, what to get and what size
#11
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 92
RE: Arrows, what to get and what size
Alright i was on the carbon express websight and it says the carbon rebels weigh 10.7 grains per inch, at 28 inches that puts me at 299.6 as just the shaft, then 100 more grains for the broad head, which puts me at 399.6, plus whatever the knock, fletchings, glue, and insert weighs, so at 5 gpp im at 58 pounds i should be at 290 for a minimum, so I'm at almost 7 gpp, does all this math sound correct?
#12
RE: Arrows, what to get and what size
ORIGINAL: mobowhuntr
Just an FYI, minimum arrow weight is 5 grains per pound of draw weight. So if you are shooting 60#, the MINIMUM your arrow should weigh is 350 gr.
Just an FYI, minimum arrow weight is 5 grains per pound of draw weight. So if you are shooting 60#, the MINIMUM your arrow should weigh is 350 gr.
Mideerhunter, you are correct that your minimum would now be 290.
10.7 grains per inch sounds heavy for a 45/60, but if that is what it said you should be alright. In fact a 400 grain arrow would be the minimum for an 80# bow.
I still maintain that if your bow was tuned, shooting bullets, grouping with broadheads with an arrow over 5 grain per pound draw weight I wouldn't have worried about what a chart told me.
The chart is a means to arrive at a desired end result. If the disired end result is achieved without ever looking at achart so be it. Bullet holes (at various distances- not just a snapshot) and broadheads that group well at the distances you plan to hunt- that's the end result your after.
How does it paper tune at 58# and have your broadhead groups grown tighter or looser?
#13
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 92
RE: Arrows, what to get and what size
I'm going to go start tuning it today, before it shot great, but I got a new HHA drop away rest, and the bow turned down to58 pounds, so I was going to wait to tune it with the new broadheads, but is there any way the 45/60s could cause damage by being to light?, the carbon express websight shows the carbon rebels45/60s weighing 10.7 grains per inch but that could be wrong http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/arrows_carbon_rebel.shtmlcheck out that page and see if it all looks correct, thats where I found the info
#15
RE: Arrows, what to get and what size
Mobo, I've mispokethis week myself.
Mideerhunter, no I think your right on the weight.I checked them out in a catalog today and they weight was as you posted. They sure seamheavy for a 45/60. But that's not a bad thing. Just odd that the spine is on the weaker side of things, yet they carry heavy mass.
Since that weight is true (a scale is the final say in the matter) it looks like your over 400 grains total- weigh them to find out. If that is the case you have room to increase your draw weight until you overspine the arrow. Sounds like an easy point to find, but I'm afraid it's not.
If your grouping broadheads well; lets say 3" at 30 yards and your start increasing draw weight a 1/2 turn on each limb bolt at a time you should be able to increase it to your desired draw weight, or to the point where your groups start to grow for where you started.
I think I would set it at 60 and see what happens, not sure about your hoyt, but fairly certain it has a 10# draw weight range, if you used to shoot at 64#, that means you most likely have a 60-70# bow. Backing it down to 58 MIGHT not be such a great thing. I'd take it to 60 and then find out if the arrows tune there and see what they are looking for.
Find out from Hoyt if they have a maximum number of turns you can take out of a limb bolt. On bowtech it is 2.5 turns each. Ifn it was I, I would max out the limb bolts and then back them off 2.5 each and then scale the bow to see where it landed. If you are wanting to shoot a lighter draw weight then that is your starting point. If your arrows are still too weak there you could always stiffen them up byswitching heads or fletching to a lighterset up. Assuming your arrows DO weigh over 400, dropping to a 75 grain point would stiffen them up a bit and still provide you with a decently weighted arrow.
BUT before you go buying new heads and fletching, how about just gettingsome new arrows properly spined to begin with? If you want to shoot 64#, that is what you might need to do.
Whew, did I just right all that?
Mideerhunter, no I think your right on the weight.I checked them out in a catalog today and they weight was as you posted. They sure seamheavy for a 45/60. But that's not a bad thing. Just odd that the spine is on the weaker side of things, yet they carry heavy mass.
Since that weight is true (a scale is the final say in the matter) it looks like your over 400 grains total- weigh them to find out. If that is the case you have room to increase your draw weight until you overspine the arrow. Sounds like an easy point to find, but I'm afraid it's not.
If your grouping broadheads well; lets say 3" at 30 yards and your start increasing draw weight a 1/2 turn on each limb bolt at a time you should be able to increase it to your desired draw weight, or to the point where your groups start to grow for where you started.
I think I would set it at 60 and see what happens, not sure about your hoyt, but fairly certain it has a 10# draw weight range, if you used to shoot at 64#, that means you most likely have a 60-70# bow. Backing it down to 58 MIGHT not be such a great thing. I'd take it to 60 and then find out if the arrows tune there and see what they are looking for.
Find out from Hoyt if they have a maximum number of turns you can take out of a limb bolt. On bowtech it is 2.5 turns each. Ifn it was I, I would max out the limb bolts and then back them off 2.5 each and then scale the bow to see where it landed. If you are wanting to shoot a lighter draw weight then that is your starting point. If your arrows are still too weak there you could always stiffen them up byswitching heads or fletching to a lighterset up. Assuming your arrows DO weigh over 400, dropping to a 75 grain point would stiffen them up a bit and still provide you with a decently weighted arrow.
BUT before you go buying new heads and fletching, how about just gettingsome new arrows properly spined to begin with? If you want to shoot 64#, that is what you might need to do.
Whew, did I just right all that?