Suggested arrows
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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I have had lots of problems paper tuning my bow and I found out my arrows are under spinned. So I am looking for new ones, but since I have used these for 8 years, I don't know where to start. I was shooting Goldtip XT5575. They are 29 1/16 inch long from a single hard cam at 70 inches on a 30 inch draw bow. They are 8.2 gr/inch. Spine 0.400in.
I need a hunting arrow that is no more than 8.2 gr/inch and will increase the spine to an acceptable level (I am not sure what that level is). Does anyone know of an arrow that fits that criteria?
I need a hunting arrow that is no more than 8.2 gr/inch and will increase the spine to an acceptable level (I am not sure what that level is). Does anyone know of an arrow that fits that criteria?
#2
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Need to know what your tip weight is... Im assuming the "70 inches" means 70 lbs. If thats the case you can upgrade to Goldtip XT7595. They have a stiffer spine.
Or, you could lower your tip weight, lower your draw weight, or see if you can shoot a shorter arrow...
Or, you could lower your tip weight, lower your draw weight, or see if you can shoot a shorter arrow...
#3
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Ed hit one right in the middle. Why do men always think they need new arrows because of a light spine? I have always figured that tuning is important and that's one of the uses of limb bolts. Is there something wrong with maybe turning the weight down to 65#? Those arrows just might work fine at that weight and you won't have to spend more money.
#4
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I recently did all three of these methods cause i didnt want to buy new arrows... after re-tuning my bow is shooting better than ever.... I think lowering the draw wt brought me to a "sweet-spot" for my bow. Its noticeably quieter and smoother.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
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......but since I have used these for 8 years,.....
This statement, if I'm reading it correctly, says a lot. First, carbon arrows DO wear out; in spite of what some manufacturers want you to believe. Second, bows also wear over time. I'll assume that you've change string/cable(s) over the eight years; but, were they installed correctly (especially the last set) and have you ever considered the possibility of worn bushings or twisted limbs? For instance, if the string/cable(s) are not installed correctly, they will contribute to the wear of other components, such as bushings.
While you seem to beon the cusp of the arrows spine, if the bow is in good shape it should accept those arrows. Going to the 7595 spine might be somewhat of an overkill.
Cutting the draw weight down, as suggested,might help in several ways. First, it would put less stress on the arrow; and second, it might put less stress on you. Many times, a person who has a draw length too long and draw weight too high, which is the majority of the time, creates problems in their form which amplifies the situation over time.
In other words, arrow spine may or may not be the culprit.
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#6
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All great advise. Suffice it to say that if you jump up in spine, you will gain weight, there is just not much way around it, unless you shoot a lighter weight tip. BUT, it won't really be that much. You're really only going to gain about...20 gr. in total arrow weight. This is going to do nothing but help you. And it will only slow you down roughly 2 maybe 3 fps. Big deal. You need something in the 340 variety.
#7
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It is amazing how I can reread my own message and it make perfect sence to me, but some how you guys can't read my mind.
First 70 inches is really 70#. I am shooting 100gr tips. I really don't want to back off on the bow weight because I want the flattest trajectory possible. I have been shooting the 5575 arrows over the past 8 years, but I wear them out, break them, or lose them. I have easily gone through 4-5 dozen in the past 8 years. And for the bow. It is a brand new switchback xt.
I have been shooting these (type) of arrows successfully for the past 8 years in my hoyt rapter. I bought a new switchback xt and assumed I could just step over with the same arrows. The only way I have been able to papertune or bare shaft tune the bow to these arrows is to have the centershot out at 15/16 inch. That is basically one arrow shaft width outside of center of the riser. There has to be so muchenergy lost due to this.
I spoke to the matthews rep and the goldtip rep and they both recommended the ultralight 22 series. These are actually lighter than my current arrows, they have a heavier spine, and the have a larger diameter. My only concern is that they are classified as target arrows. What does that classification mean?
First 70 inches is really 70#. I am shooting 100gr tips. I really don't want to back off on the bow weight because I want the flattest trajectory possible. I have been shooting the 5575 arrows over the past 8 years, but I wear them out, break them, or lose them. I have easily gone through 4-5 dozen in the past 8 years. And for the bow. It is a brand new switchback xt.
I have been shooting these (type) of arrows successfully for the past 8 years in my hoyt rapter. I bought a new switchback xt and assumed I could just step over with the same arrows. The only way I have been able to papertune or bare shaft tune the bow to these arrows is to have the centershot out at 15/16 inch. That is basically one arrow shaft width outside of center of the riser. There has to be so muchenergy lost due to this.
I spoke to the matthews rep and the goldtip rep and they both recommended the ultralight 22 series. These are actually lighter than my current arrows, they have a heavier spine, and the have a larger diameter. My only concern is that they are classified as target arrows. What does that classification mean?
#8
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stinkbelly,
If you choose to use GT 22 series have no fear. I've used them for a couple years now for both 3D and hunting. The fact that are lighter is because the shaft walls are not as thick as your XT's. This makes them a little more fragile, but it is partly made up for with a bigger diameter. Some things equal out. The fact that they are classified as a target arrow means nothing. That's kinda like saying that Easton X7's are a target arrow and XX78's are a hunting arrow. It's all a bunch of hogwash. An arrow is an arrow. You make your own designation.
Although they are a .300 spine and should easily tune to your setup they tend to be a very adaptable shaft. I shoot them at 27" and as low as 53# out of my 3D rig and at 58# from my hunting rig. As many are finding out a stiffer arrow will shoot pretty darn well out of today's high performance bows.
If you make up your own arrows just be careful. As with all carbon arrows if they are not quite straight it is usually at the ends. That's why I routinely cut 1 1/2" from the nock end and then the rest from the point end. It makes for a straighter arrow, and helps square up the end in the process.
If you find you want a little more mass weight it's easy to add wraps and/or play with point weight. Me? I'm a speed freak. And at my draw length I try to get all I can.
Good luck.
If you choose to use GT 22 series have no fear. I've used them for a couple years now for both 3D and hunting. The fact that are lighter is because the shaft walls are not as thick as your XT's. This makes them a little more fragile, but it is partly made up for with a bigger diameter. Some things equal out. The fact that they are classified as a target arrow means nothing. That's kinda like saying that Easton X7's are a target arrow and XX78's are a hunting arrow. It's all a bunch of hogwash. An arrow is an arrow. You make your own designation.
Although they are a .300 spine and should easily tune to your setup they tend to be a very adaptable shaft. I shoot them at 27" and as low as 53# out of my 3D rig and at 58# from my hunting rig. As many are finding out a stiffer arrow will shoot pretty darn well out of today's high performance bows.
If you make up your own arrows just be careful. As with all carbon arrows if they are not quite straight it is usually at the ends. That's why I routinely cut 1 1/2" from the nock end and then the rest from the point end. It makes for a straighter arrow, and helps square up the end in the process.
If you find you want a little more mass weight it's easy to add wraps and/or play with point weight. Me? I'm a speed freak. And at my draw length I try to get all I can.
Good luck.
#9
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
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If your happy with the Gold Tips then I suspect you want to keep shooting them and that is certainly okay, I wouldn't try to change your mind. Lot's of people shoot them and have done real well using them as their "missile of choice".
Here is another one of my "For what its worth comments"......
I have shot a lot of brands of arrows, Gold tips, Carbon Express, Carbon Tech, Nitro stingers, Sattelite, ACC's, XX78's,and the list goes on and on. All had their strengths and weaknesses concerning my particular preferences.Further as I have said openly in the past, I am not a big fan of the H.I.T. system.However, I have to be honest and say I am impressed with Easton's A/C Super Slim shafts. They flat out shoot! I don't expect most guys to spend the money that I do on shafts but I have noticed a difference in my shooting since I started shootingwith these arrowson an experimental basis. I have since purchased more....
Here is another one of my "For what its worth comments"......
I have shot a lot of brands of arrows, Gold tips, Carbon Express, Carbon Tech, Nitro stingers, Sattelite, ACC's, XX78's,and the list goes on and on. All had their strengths and weaknesses concerning my particular preferences.Further as I have said openly in the past, I am not a big fan of the H.I.T. system.However, I have to be honest and say I am impressed with Easton's A/C Super Slim shafts. They flat out shoot! I don't expect most guys to spend the money that I do on shafts but I have noticed a difference in my shooting since I started shootingwith these arrowson an experimental basis. I have since purchased more....