WA Shooter

Hi all, I've been gone for a while and now that I have problems, I knew where to look for the right answers.

I took my '02 Patriot in and had the 70# limbs replaced with 60# ones, new string/cable,and a Trophy Taker rest installed. The shop is very reputable, and I have never had problems with their work before.

My problem is that no matter what I do, I can't get the bow to shoot through paper without a BAD left tear. This would indicate a weak spine, which I wouldn't think is the case with GT-5575's, but it does the same with my GT-7595's. By the time I move the rest far enough to the right to start making a difference the arrow is so far out of center that it can't be right. The string/ cable looks fine, and the cam and idler look good too, at this point I'm out of things to check, any ideas? I checked clearance, and it makes the tears with both flex-fletch vanes and blazers.

The shop told me they don't put much in paper tuning, as long as the arrow looks like it's coming outof the bow OK. This is BS, I know paper tuning isn't the only tuning that needs to be done, but where the hell else do you start? I am at the point of sighting it in at 20 yds. and then shoot target tips, then broadheads to see if I can get them to both hit the same spot. I guess if they both hit together it's all good, but I really feel that there is something else wrong to be causing this tear.

gibblet

your trophy taker rest is most likely bouncing back up and hitting the arrow, or the arrow is hitting the cord of the tt. where is the cord connected?

WA Shooter

Thanks Gibblet,

The TT rope is connected to the cable, below the rest, but it is through the cable in such a way that it is looping towards the arrow when the arrow is sitting on the shelf.

Could the rope be coming back to battery and actually be hittig the arrow as it is leaving?

I don't think the rest is bouncing back up, how do I check for this?

TerryM

HAve someone ( also experienced ) shoot it through paper just to confirm that it isn't a form problem caused by you.

DaveC

Rule out fletching contact first.
Goop some lipstick on the fletchings where they look like they might hit and then shoot, you'll probably leave lipstick on the arrow rest which is most likely your porblem. (like Gibblet suggested)

The 02 infinity cams weren't famous for level nock travel and one of the easiest ways to obtain drop away clearance was/is to start with the nocking point high say 3/8" or so. Don't worry about what your reading on paper now, just make the move and start over.

Another issue is how long the drop away is staying up, that cam needs arrow support until the last 2"+ or so of draw stroke, this better helps guide the arrow instead of letting it fall early.

I have been able to get 2 infinity cammed bows to shoot well with a TT shaky, but there is a fine balance between clean clearance and fletching contact.
Finding it will drive you nuts[8D]

The easiest solution for me on infinity cam bow #3 was installing a TR Drop Zone, it seemed to tune a lot easier when the shaky wouldn't.

gibblet

there are 2 spring settings on that rest. its difficult to change them and you have to take the thing apart, and its tough to get it back together with the spring in the tiny hole. i successfully changed mine to the light setting, so it doesn't slam down, and no more issues. many of the tt issues are caused by bounce back of the launcher.also, you can successfully change that cord position w/out a press. you'll need something like 2 old arrows, or 1 large and 1 medium allen wrench. with them handy, hold the riser in your left hand near the bottom cam and grab the cable with your left hand fingers. squeeze the cable towards the riser and insert the 2 arrows or allen wrenches (make sure you don't have the angled sides down and up) thru a hole in the cam which is now above the limbs because of you squeezing the cable(if its a small hole use a 16 penny nail) so that when you un-squeeze the riser the cam isn't allowed to rotate back to position because the object you used isn't allowing it to. this will take the pressure off the cable and you can re-insert the cord, or twist the cable the appropriate direction from the bottom loop.

DaveC

Great tip, I use a 16 penny nail wrapped in duct tape so it doesn't leave a scratch.

Come to think of it I know I adjusted my TT spring and it's most likely in the harder position.

WA Shooter

OK, so I double checked the cable for the rest, it is out of the way. It was the one on my DZ on my Allegience that is looped towards the arrow.

I went home last night and gooped lipstick on the fletchings to check for contact. No lipstick showed on the rest, riser, or cables. I suspected maybe the mohair on the launcher arm so took it off, no change. I also turned the nock to maximize fletching clearance to no effect.

At this point, it's going back to the shop, it shot bullet holes with the 70# limbs, so they can make it right.

Gibblet, I would have figured that if thelauncher arm was bouncing off the shelf into the arow, I would have seen lipstick on the arm.

DaveC, I've been shooting for 23 years, I can pretty much rule out form,but I tried with many different hand positions on the riser to make sure that wasn't the case. It doesn't change the left tear, but I can make it worse up/down if I try.

I'm open to any other thoughts on this, even though it's going back to the shop.

gibblet

those were about the best i have. the only other thing i can think - from reading switchback threads - is ......... how straight is your string coming off your idler wheel. if its coming off real slanted the right side of the yoke may need some twists. be better if someone watched you at full draw and let you know which way the limb needed finaglin.