mudd_dawg

I know this question has been asked before but i am going to ask again since this time it is happening to me.My set up is listed below so i won't repeat it.so i went out today and was working on sighting in my bow i got it sighted in at 15,30,45 yards with pratice tips then switched to my B/H's and it was just crazy the differance.i am going to post a picture to show whats going on.OK i was shooting at 30 yards when i took the picture the 3 arrows in the orange have pratice tips on them the ohter one has a muzzy 100 grain 3 blade on it, i shot thease 4 arrows like this 4 times and came up with the same result each time. i moved in to 15 yards and still the same thing not as bad the one with the muzzy at 15 yards was about 3 inches closer then it was @ 30 yards. Now i have seen one or the other be higher or lower but never off to one side like this.

i have never used the arrows or vanes just wondering if maybe i need to switch vanes or go to a different B/H's. any help would be great

thanks Jim

the arrow with the B/H is almost 12 inches to the right of the one's with the pratice tips. this is at 30 yards no real wind to speak of. this happened all four times i shot the 3 with the pratice tips and the one with the B/H

gibblet

you could move your arrow rest to the left about 1/8" maybe, and then re-sight-in. should be closer.

people argue a lot about it, or at least i'm willing to, but when i tune my hunting bow to broadheads, that's what i'm doing. i don't care where the field or practice tips hit. usually its very close, but not exactly the same (for me). with slick tricks though its pretty much exact.

tthhWACKem

Iv'e heard of people 'retuning' their bow to shoot B/H's or being able to 'tune' their B/H's to shoot differently. I can honestly say that I haven't ever done that, I shoot a CRIMSON TALON 125 out of a mid 80's DARTON.

Thats just me..

mac87toy

i had the exact same problem with my bow and arrow set up. I shoot easton axis in 340 that are 28 inches long and 2.25 inch quick spins and with muzzy's, razorback 100, and land sharks they all flew like crap I switched to slick trick 100 and rocky mountain iron heads and those two broadheads fly perfect so i would say start by fixing the cheapest part and try slick tricks they are really nice.

RIStrutStopper

According to Easton's Tuning Guide, that would indicate weak spine reaction (right handed shooter.) Adjustments to try are decrease bow poundage, lighten broadhead weight, increase tension in cushion plunger (I used to have one of those, lol), move the arrow rest or cushion plunger out from the bow (1/32" adjustments at a time.) If you dont have it, do a search for Easton's Tuning Guide and download it. Its a good read.

mudd_dawg

just wanted to add that i build the arrows myself and the blades of the B/H's line up perfectly with the vanes i know that could cause this to happen,but not the problem this time.i am just wondering if because the shafts are so small the mabye a B/H of this size is just to big. a friend of mine is shooting the same set up except he uses some open on impact B/H's, and he has not had this problem.I know when i had the bow set up at my local shop he used a laser to center every thing and with the pratice tips as you can see in the picture @ 30 yards it's dead on

Oh if it matters or might help i shoot left handed

RIStrutStopper

If you're a left handed shooter, some of the stuff from the tuning guide may need to be reversed, download it and check it out. There's a great graphic there showing field points dead on and broadheads grouping somewhere else and how to tune the bow to get them in the same place.

nodog

I'd say that was a tuning issue for sure. Nothing should be that far off and the bh is telling you something is wrong, they don't lie or mask the truth like a FP would. Just an fyi, Imo blazers are more prone to fly left or right with bh's in a cross wind than a 4" vane. I've shot both side by side and can find no advantage to the blazers over a 4" duravane even though they weigh less. They maybe more durable as my duravanes got pretty tore up last season due to some briars (the reason I'm looking for a replacment). Shot placement is the same out to 70 yrds. but the duravane is more stable in a cross wind, not much, but some. I wouldn't trust either to tell the truth. Your arrow weight and foc have changed with the BH, which changes the spine some. How close you were to begin with I can't say. Haven't found or herd of a BH that weighed what was claimed. Mine are 6 grns. heavier.

I'd tune it with a BH and let the FP's fall where they may. There not picky. Just my O.

Bulzeye

Mudd_dawg, that pic perfectly demonstrates the need for bowhunters to BH tune their equipment. I've had my stuff bareshaft tuned great out to 30 yards and still had a 6" diff in POI with fixed blade BHs.
They really are that picky about how precisely your system is tuned.

You may want to see if changing the draw weight slightly, like even 1/2of a turn on the limb bolts, will help before you go messing with too many other things. I was amazed to see the big difference that such a small adjustment can make.

BobCo19-65

Just a note that I only move the rest away from the centershot of the bow (moving rest right to left) only after trying all other possible fixes to the problem. If you feel there isa weak reaction, try decrease bow poundeage, cut the arrow shorter, select a stiffer spined arrow, decrease weight of the tip (you are at 100, so I would go with any less weight).

Moving the rest may be the easiest fix in tuning a bow, however, the closer you can be to the centershot of the bow with the bow in tune, the better off you will be.

I've always been more in favor to tuning the arrow to the bow, then the bow to the arrow. FWIW.