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peak weight vs. lowering poundage

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Old 03-02-2006, 04:46 AM
  #1  
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Default peak weight vs. lowering poundage

is there anywere on here on the true effects of this subject. any articles that lay asolid claim between the two.that can give a good explanation or differences in performance or maybe a search engine to go to. say a guy chooses a 70 lb bow--instead of shooting it about peaked out-- instead reducing it to say 63 lbs what is thereal affect as far as accuracy and speed compared to shooting it maxed out. is there to much put into this issue or is there a rock solid claim.would you get more speed and better accuracy instead shooting one maxed out that may give you the 63 lbs instead of backing one down to that poundage.
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:42 PM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

Boy this sounds like one of my questions...

I bring you no facts, just a hunch that it would be morebeneficial to shoot a bow that is as high as posible for hunting, but still comfortable enough for you to shoot and be accurate with.On that note, when I first got my bow I had it dialed down to 62 pounds and it shotjust as good as it did when I put it at 70 pounds and re-adjusted nock height. Maybe some people see a change in accuracy because they forget to retune their bow/nock heightafter changing weight on limbs.With my cams the nock position changes when I change my torgue on limb bolts, especially if one is turned more than the other. As you probably already know, changing torque on limb bolts will also effect your arrow spine, thus change how arrow is tuned. In closing, I think if bothlimb weightshad a perfectly tuned bow, you wouldn't see much difference in accuracy. I never did.
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Old 03-02-2006, 02:34 PM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

I have shot all my bows maxed out, in the middle and at the lowest setting, if not lower. None of them shoot any different other than the decrease in speed because of the loss in draw weight. All were just as accurate and quiet after being tuned. The limbs are adjustable for a reason, put them where you want them and don't worry about it.

Paul
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:58 AM
  #4  
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

i asked the same question back in the 80's and was told it doesn't matter where the weight is set. the bows is disigned to shoot at all weight ranges and the lower poundage actually puts less stress on the equipment. shoot what feels best to you. lower poundage equals less muscle fatigue so it may shoot better than something you have to apply a lot of effort to draw. less rotator cuff issues also.
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:29 AM
  #5  
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

it will have no affect its just you thats gonna get strained out from the weight of the bow
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:43 AM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

When I ordered my Reflex Highlander, I got it with 70# limbs. But when I got setup in the bow shop, the guy "tested" me with different poundages. I drew 65# without a problem. When he crankedthe limbs back up, the bow scale read roughly 72#. He noticed me straining a bit with 72#, but I drew it back okay. So he turned the limb bolts back out a turn or a turn and a half.So then the bow scale read 67#. I drew that back and didn't strain like I did before. It is comfortable to draw and probably not at peak efficiency, but my new bow will really serve me well.

I believe the proper efficiency and IBO rating was with 70# limbs and 30" draw and a bare shaft carbon arrow. The IBO rating of the Reflex Highlander (old Grizzly) is 305 fps.

Since I now draw 67# with a 29" length, I'll probably be shooting 275-280 fps.
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Old 03-03-2006, 12:08 PM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

I just noticed the Browning Illusion comes with a 15# weight range on it's limbs......

One reason I could see going with the Max weight is if you are trying to duplicate the factory settings and specs. The ATA will shrink & the brace will increase when you let off of the draw weight because the cams come closer together reducing the overall distance the string must travel which in turn makes your string & drawa tad longer than it was at max ratings.

Not that this small amount should matter MUCH, but when you find yourself tryingto tune a bow that won't tune the first question you'll be asked is "do you have the bow at factory specs??" If your not pulling that maximum draw weight chances are it isn't.

One benefit I could see in buying the next higher draw weight and then backing it downis the limbs should/could last longer since they would be rated for a higher deflection/load than what you are using them at.

If I'm wrong on any of this someone please line me out in the matter - always looking to learn.


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Old 03-03-2006, 02:18 PM
  #8  
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

Are you more asking "does a 60 lb bow tweaked to 63 lbs shoot better than a 70 lb. bow backed down to 63 lbs...?"
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Old 03-03-2006, 08:19 PM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

I was taught that a bow shot closer to its peak weight will perform better and more efficiently. If you look at bow manuals even today, I am confident most will state this or similiar....I know my Bowtech manual does. Problem is when you are more comfortable at say.....65 lbs. for example, it doesn't make any sense to overbow yourself with 70 lbs., thus most probably hurting yourself performance wise if its too much to handle comfortably.
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Old 03-04-2006, 06:03 PM
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Default RE: peak weight vs. lowering poundage

I own four bows, one of them being a bowtech and it doesn't matter. They state the effeciency falls off, but I didn't notice when I chronoed it at different draw weights using different arrows. After doing the math it still fell within the stated IBO speeds. Anything you do could potentially effect the effeciency of the bow, like shooting it at a lower poundage, or using a shorter draw length, or having the cam/s out of time. However my Mighty Might with the single cam is set at 26 inches, 53 lbs and the draw stop is slighty off to give me a bit of a valley and a bit more let off. It is still pretty effecient. Same with my darton with the CPS cams.

On a really old bow it may effect if the bow has more vibration or noise, but none of the bows I have seen made in the last 5 years or so should be effected by this, even older ones for that matter. It should not effect accuracy at all providing you didn't throw your nock point off doing it or severely changed your arrow spine. However anytime you change anything on your bow it may require re-tuning.

Paul
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